"On startup it peaks briefly at 450ma and then settles in to 200-210ma DC while running"
Many thanks
- John
it seems that woodturner aka fran may be onto something with the SPDIF attenuator.
I initially used it with the 300/100 resistor combo, but frankly I could not hear any change when going from no attenuation to -10dB to -15dB
Reading fran's experience, I decided to bypass the 300/100 combo. Then I added in the 10db attenuator and listened. Something had changed for the better (vs the 300/100). The I added the 15dB attenuator and heard a further change.
The sound seems to open up with the attenuators in place, another so-called veil being lifted. Highs are cleaner and bass has been clarified further.
will do more listening...
I initially used it with the 300/100 resistor combo, but frankly I could not hear any change when going from no attenuation to -10dB to -15dB
Reading fran's experience, I decided to bypass the 300/100 combo. Then I added in the 10db attenuator and listened. Something had changed for the better (vs the 300/100). The I added the 15dB attenuator and heard a further change.
The sound seems to open up with the attenuators in place, another so-called veil being lifted. Highs are cleaner and bass has been clarified further.
will do more listening...
Hey,
I found a chip LA6541(only one) it was a dip can't get a smt (backordered)It's ic 903,My problem is the circuit on the data sheet and the actual circuits don't compute correctly,I have the picture peter posted and it's what I have , Would some one be willing to pin the chip out to the board as some traces are missing from the board and when I trace the ones that the data says ,they don't go there,like ic 903 pin 2 goes to Lc 78601 pin 32 but no it goes to led segment on the board,,,,,,,,Any help would be appreciated,
THANKS,
A source for a new controler board would fix this TOO,lol.
I found a chip LA6541(only one) it was a dip can't get a smt (backordered)It's ic 903,My problem is the circuit on the data sheet and the actual circuits don't compute correctly,I have the picture peter posted and it's what I have , Would some one be willing to pin the chip out to the board as some traces are missing from the board and when I trace the ones that the data says ,they don't go there,like ic 903 pin 2 goes to Lc 78601 pin 32 but no it goes to led segment on the board,,,,,,,,Any help would be appreciated,
THANKS,
A source for a new controler board would fix this TOO,lol.
Dr. H - glad you have more or less heard what I have. As I understand it, the RF attenuator is perfectly impedance matched, so it reduces reflections that bounce from one end of the cable to the other. If one of these "bounces" hits as the signal is going from 0 to 1, it causes jitter. So by using the attenuators, these "bounces" are cut. In the shiga, we are lucky - we have a high level signal, so can afford to, or want to, cut the signal.
They actually don't cost much more than some fancy riken or caddocks when you factor postage..... and best of all, what you heard Dr. H - thats what you hear when you use them on most digital sources. Squeezebox, CDPs, etc etc etc
Fran
They actually don't cost much more than some fancy riken or caddocks when you factor postage..... and best of all, what you heard Dr. H - thats what you hear when you use them on most digital sources. Squeezebox, CDPs, etc etc etc
Fran
I can't put the sheet up for some reason,but here is a link to la6541D,Audio Lab of Ga
Would someone compare it ,The smt and dip are pin to pin identical,but 1c 902 the trans is on pin 12 the picture peter posted 901 is on pins 5 and 6,this is what's got me spoofed,so I wonder if the other pins are right?
Thanks,
Would someone compare it ,The smt and dip are pin to pin identical,but 1c 902 the trans is on pin 12 the picture peter posted 901 is on pins 5 and 6,this is what's got me spoofed,so I wonder if the other pins are right?
Thanks,
Some observations, more questions
Hi guys,
have looked at the data sheets for the chips used in the shigaclone and a few things pop out:
1. 78601e, the dsp that generates the reference clock, amongst many other things, has THREE separate 5V pins (p6=internal vco supply, p22=digital system power supply and p62 crystal oscillator power supply). The data sheet emphasises that the three pins must be at the same voltage (say 5V) or the chip will latch-up. this is decoupled by c934, 935 and after a 100R resistor by c953 nad 960.
2. As things stand at the moment, this same supply is connected to pin64 (RF system VCC) of 9242, the RF amplifier, amongst other things. There is also a pin56 VCC (servo system and digital system power).
I'd say that there would probably be some merit in supplying some of these pins (for example RF and internal VCO) from a seperate clean supply.
Also, any views out there on VREF at pin58 and the bypass cap at p57? currently, c930 and C928 decouples it. May be worth placing a good quality decoupling cap here (oscon etc).
Hi guys,
have looked at the data sheets for the chips used in the shigaclone and a few things pop out:
1. 78601e, the dsp that generates the reference clock, amongst many other things, has THREE separate 5V pins (p6=internal vco supply, p22=digital system power supply and p62 crystal oscillator power supply). The data sheet emphasises that the three pins must be at the same voltage (say 5V) or the chip will latch-up. this is decoupled by c934, 935 and after a 100R resistor by c953 nad 960.
2. As things stand at the moment, this same supply is connected to pin64 (RF system VCC) of 9242, the RF amplifier, amongst other things. There is also a pin56 VCC (servo system and digital system power).
I'd say that there would probably be some merit in supplying some of these pins (for example RF and internal VCO) from a seperate clean supply.
Also, any views out there on VREF at pin58 and the bypass cap at p57? currently, c930 and C928 decouples it. May be worth placing a good quality decoupling cap here (oscon etc).
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Today I found some time to implement the Trichord 4 with (this time) its own Never Connected Power Supply.
This was also a good moment to have a spare transport up and running.
I made on the mini-PiTbull the supply while using the clock on the spare...
All went as smooth as could be and was working (only showing 5PPM on the Lens....before 189PPM) fine as expected.
So after that taking the original apart....... and....... PLAYING-TIME....
The Donor....
The Mini-PiTbull with th Blue-Spec ELO "Out of the Blue"...how appropriate
This was also a good moment to have a spare transport up and running.
I made on the mini-PiTbull the supply while using the clock on the spare...
All went as smooth as could be and was working (only showing 5PPM on the Lens....before 189PPM) fine as expected.
So after that taking the original apart....... and....... PLAYING-TIME....
The Donor....
The Mini-PiTbull with th Blue-Spec ELO "Out of the Blue"...how appropriate
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I received my ebony puck from Fran yesterday which fitted onto the Shigaclone very easily indeed. Such a simple yet elegant (and effective!) solution to holding the CD in place.
I have had one of those evenings where everything has suddenly gelled in my system, and some of the most realistic reproduction of music I've yet heard is coming out of my Hi-Fi this evening. Even my parents sat down and said they couldn't believe it was coming from a CD. I'm not sure if Fran's puck is the sole reason for all this, or the caps in the Shigaclone have finally burnt in - probably a combination of both! - but I am just stunned! Suddenly everything has just fallen into place. It sounds like EXTREMELY good (and expensive!) analogue. Presence, emotion, detail, involvement, PRAT, effortlessness, smoothness, complete lack of any stereotypical digital nastyness... you name it! You know somethings gone very well indeed when your speakers just disappear and the sound just blossoms magically out of thin air as if you'd upgraded to some huge speakers. I feel like I'm listening to a performance, and not an obvious electrical reproduction of one...
I really am quite gob-smacked! To be honest it just destroys the sound of SACD on my Oppo BDP-83 (though I imagine that's probably considered a budget player to some of the more well off DIYers here!).
Listening to Astrid Gilberto at the moment and you can hear everything - the inhalation before she sings, the mic hiss, the postion of the musicians around her... you can almost hear the rough shape of the environment it was recorded in. Incredible! I never thought 16-bit could sound quite this realistic, though I've often suspected there was more to get from the silver disc than many people would give it credit for. You really get the impression of a mastertape-like 'solidity' and confidence to the sound.
I really am very very happy this evening - in 15+ years of DIY my system has never sounded as good as it does this evening (I'll keep this page book-marked so I know I didn't imagine it hahaha!). I must resist tweaking anything now I've finally reached a level of performance I didn't think possible with my fairly modest gear (Sony TA-F6B amplifier, Mission M72 speakers, modded Gigaworks 24/192 DAC using UTC output transformers).
So a VERY big thanks to Peter of course, for kick-starting the whole Shiga cloning movement (and building my lovely shiga-chassis!), Fran for his puck which seems to have worked miracles in my system, and everyone else who has helped/contributed towards this thread. To anyone still contemplating building one I'd say it is probably one of the most effective upgrades one can make to their system without spending silly money - well worth the effort it takes to locate a JVC boombox and a little DIY effort!
Sorry I've gone on a bit but I really am extremely happy this evening - THIS is what all the DIY effort is for!
I doubt I'll get much sleep tonight nor my ears much rest
- John
I have had one of those evenings where everything has suddenly gelled in my system, and some of the most realistic reproduction of music I've yet heard is coming out of my Hi-Fi this evening. Even my parents sat down and said they couldn't believe it was coming from a CD. I'm not sure if Fran's puck is the sole reason for all this, or the caps in the Shigaclone have finally burnt in - probably a combination of both! - but I am just stunned! Suddenly everything has just fallen into place. It sounds like EXTREMELY good (and expensive!) analogue. Presence, emotion, detail, involvement, PRAT, effortlessness, smoothness, complete lack of any stereotypical digital nastyness... you name it! You know somethings gone very well indeed when your speakers just disappear and the sound just blossoms magically out of thin air as if you'd upgraded to some huge speakers. I feel like I'm listening to a performance, and not an obvious electrical reproduction of one...
I really am quite gob-smacked! To be honest it just destroys the sound of SACD on my Oppo BDP-83 (though I imagine that's probably considered a budget player to some of the more well off DIYers here!).
Listening to Astrid Gilberto at the moment and you can hear everything - the inhalation before she sings, the mic hiss, the postion of the musicians around her... you can almost hear the rough shape of the environment it was recorded in. Incredible! I never thought 16-bit could sound quite this realistic, though I've often suspected there was more to get from the silver disc than many people would give it credit for. You really get the impression of a mastertape-like 'solidity' and confidence to the sound.
I really am very very happy this evening - in 15+ years of DIY my system has never sounded as good as it does this evening (I'll keep this page book-marked so I know I didn't imagine it hahaha!). I must resist tweaking anything now I've finally reached a level of performance I didn't think possible with my fairly modest gear (Sony TA-F6B amplifier, Mission M72 speakers, modded Gigaworks 24/192 DAC using UTC output transformers).
So a VERY big thanks to Peter of course, for kick-starting the whole Shiga cloning movement (and building my lovely shiga-chassis!), Fran for his puck which seems to have worked miracles in my system, and everyone else who has helped/contributed towards this thread. To anyone still contemplating building one I'd say it is probably one of the most effective upgrades one can make to their system without spending silly money - well worth the effort it takes to locate a JVC boombox and a little DIY effort!
Sorry I've gone on a bit but I really am extremely happy this evening - THIS is what all the DIY effort is for!
I doubt I'll get much sleep tonight nor my ears much rest
- John
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Very nice and enthousiastic story also very recognisable for me...
You say I must resist tweaking....ahum...
Give it a while and try to lend or make a deal (no cure no pay) to get a clock like eg the Tricord 4 with a (its) dedicated supply (or/and sup reg).....and be amazed..
I have again experienced the transport without and with a clock...STUNNING.
The best part is you keep all your analogue/emotional plusses...it just gets better in spades
You say I must resist tweaking....ahum...
Give it a while and try to lend or make a deal (no cure no pay) to get a clock like eg the Tricord 4 with a (its) dedicated supply (or/and sup reg).....and be amazed..
I have again experienced the transport without and with a clock...STUNNING.
The best part is you keep all your analogue/emotional plusses...it just gets better in spades
Very nice and enthousiastic story also very recognisable for me...
You say I must resist tweaking....ahum...
Give it a while and try to lend or make a deal (no cure no pay) to get a clock like eg the Tricord 4 with a (its) dedicated supply (or/and sup reg).....and be amazed..
I have again experienced the transport without and with a clock...STUNNING.
The best part is you keep all your analogue/emotional plusses...it just gets better in spades
I don't think there is room in my Shigaclone chassis for anything else lol! I don't doubt it can be improved by a clock, but I've learnt the hard way that part of DIY is knowing when to stop when you finally have the sound you want. I've had so many projects where I have been very happy, but HAD to just try one more tweak or replace a part and quite often I've lost what I liked about the sound, even though technically it might be an improvement.
I'm going to leave Shiga as it is now and just enjoy - and spend my money on - the music
- John
I don't think there is room in my Shigaclone chassis for anything else lol! I don't doubt it can be improved by a clock, but I've learnt the hard way that part of DIY is knowing when to stop when you finally have the sound you want. I've had so many projects where I have been very happy, but HAD to just try one more tweak or replace a part and quite often I've lost what I liked about the sound, even though technically it might be an improvement.
I'm going to leave Shiga as it is now and just enjoy - and spend my money on - the music
- John
I fully agree .....priority number one , no matter what "improvement"....best way to spend your money is buy MUSIC...
.BTW part of the DIY comfort is when a tweak does not work...never be stubborn take your loss and CHANGE IT BACK..!!!!.
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Guys......
John probably overstates the sonic contribution of the ebony puck
Personally I think it only makes a very small contribution (and don't ask me to identify it in an A/B test), but I do think it looks nice.....
Fran
You're too modest Fran haha! Sometimes it's the very last tweak which can suddenly tip the sound balance into something truly stunning.
Something I forgot to add in yesterday's post is I used a different digital interconnect too. I was using a Van Den Hul 'The Name' 75-ohm interconnect, but - on a whim - changed to a rather cheap stranded cable made by 'Thor' I had lying around. I think the combination of your puck, the interconnect and - I suspect - the caps finally 'settling down' or whatever the hell it is they do, everything suddenly just gelled!
The good news is it's still sounding awsome today (I hate the tweaks that don't sound as good the morning after haha!). I could try going back to the magnetic puck to test this but really, I'm enjoying the music way too much
- J
