Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

Well rigged it all up, turned it on and.... music! WHHEWWWWWW!

Way too early to tell if the mods have made an improvement, but already I'm sure the bass is a tad deeper than before. The mechanism seems quieter as well, but that could be my mind playing tricks.

Now to tidy up all the off cuts of wires, solder, scorched carpet etc etc ;)

Puffin had a wee search and Okapi's PDF can be found at Post 28, page 2 :)
 
Administrator
Joined 2004
Paid Member
Post Mortem RCEZ32

Well I took a good look at the micro-controller pcb tonight and after a few measurements and some careful analysis I determined that I have unfortunately destroyed the micro-controller.

Interestingly enough none of my mods were responsible for the outcome which is a good thing since it means I can do them again.

The first thing that happened was that the flat ribbon cable driving the LCD display failed, it literally broke apart at one end and was the cause of the initial symptoms when the LCD started to flake out.

It would have ended there had I stopped at that point Sunday night, but I continued to investigate and unfortunately then plugged the other ribbon in upside down which had the effect of connecting some high voltages (>12V) to places they shouldn't go like the switch matrix - this is what killed the matrix I/O on the processor. Parts of it like the LCD driver are still alive, but there is no longer any way to communicate with it, so it is probably running some sort of loop.

Unfortunately it is mask programmed and the rom is internal so there is no possibility of just replacing the micro-controller. (I doubt I could even find the programmed part at this point.)

I have another on the way and will shift the new psu over to the next controller. I will reroute those hazardous connections so that they are hard wired to the display directly and no longer go through the ribbon, (this will prevent a reoccurence should the same thing ever happen again) and I will mount every thing on the chassis plate and not move things around too much after this.

I will procure some spare ribbon cables.

The new unit should be here in a few days.
 
Hi Puffin.

I initially thought the same thing, but if you wire up the PSU to the board as shown in Okapi's PDF, and plug the ribbon cable into the drive mechanism as normal the display will work fine :)

You will need to attach two wires to the PSU to get the LED working though, but this is in Okapi's PDF. Have you got the latest version of the PDF by the way? That one shows the LED attachment.

My modded transport is starting to sound very nice indeed now - same as before really but with a little less grain. More refined. Some may prefer the extra 'excitement' of the unmodded version. I'll hold off judgement until it's been burnt in a little longer (damn Black Gates!). Noticed that JVC mains transformer gets quite warm - is this normal anyone? Afraid I didn't get to test this when I was using the original JVC PSU board.

Cheers,

- John
 
johnm said:
Have you got the latest version of the PDF by the way? That one shows the LED attachment.


Noticed that JVC mains transformer gets quite warm - is this normal anyone? Afraid I didn't get to test this when I was using the original JVC PSU board.

Cheers,

- John

I would not worry about the transformer temperature , it is clear that it is very little transformer for the unit needs . So the warm up is natural for it .

No I didnt had the latest version of the PDF , where can I find it ?




:cool:
 
johnm said:
Think I may give this tweak a try once the modded JVC has had time to burn in properly. Anyone tried this?

http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/11/110291.html

- John

If you want to do something similar, use a decent EMI/RFI filter.
Audible improvements can be made to the powersupply AFTER a decent EI-transformer.
(You can harm yourself playing with capacitors at the mains voltage)
 
PDF can be found on page 2, post no.28.

Thanks for letting me know about the mains transformer - yeah it is a tiny unit. Hopefully in another few weeks I'll be able to change it for something better.

Yes I know one should always be wary about using capacitors at mains voltage, but this tweak has been tried and tested by many with no problems. There are mains-specific caps one can buy as well for added safety so I'll probably do just that.

The transport is sounding AWFUL at the moment - I hate this part of th eburn-in process :rolleyes:
 
johnm said:
Everyone who's tried it would be inclined to disagree - still each to his/her own :cool:

P.S. I haven't tried it myself, but I remain open-minded until I do.

I use it for diagnostic purposes.
A cap that gives audible improvement when placed in a crazy place (like at the mains input) shows that there is a ground loop problem.
Solve that (the real) problem and you can leave out the cap.

No problem with people who disagree, but I'd like to see some science behind it.
--> If you dance long enough in Belgium, it WILL rain (doing that naked in the garden doesn't actually help)