Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story - Page 22

Peter Daniel · 9th April 2008, 12:32 AM

The mods presented in pdf file are changes that suited my needs and my equipment, don't do them all at once.

Start with clean PS: remove all ceramic caps, choke and 470uF cap (on board) mentioned in pdf file, then build external PS: good transformer with 24V CT or similar, 2 x MSR860 diodes, LM7808 regulator and 2 x 1000uF caps. BG STD is good choice after requaltor, before regulator you may try the same cap, BG FK or whatever else you find available and suitable.

Then start replacing caps on board: you may find my choices working fine, or you may find that something else works better FOR YOU. But don't do it all at once, as you will loose track of what works and what not.

The untouched board, with just PS mods, works quite well and some of you may find that additional adjustement are not needed at all.

What I found though, is that mechanical build was quite important and it's definitely worth to do some work here.

I started with acrylic platform, later switched to spruce board and only then found heavy frame on springs even better. It's also recommended to mount the mechanism on two standoffs only; it really sounds better that way... and I wouldn't try if I didn't see it in Shigaraki

luvdunhill · 9th April 2008, 12:41 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by stefanobilliani
[B]Where? I cant see it .

what about pins 33-36 on the LC78620

stefanobilliani · 9th April 2008, 12:55 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by luvdunhill

what about pins 33-36 on the LC78620

OK , that it looks more like Shigaraki board .

stefanobilliani · 9th April 2008, 01:11 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Peter Daniel

I started with acrylic platform, later switched to spruce board and only then found heavy frame on springs even better. It's also recommended to mount the mechanism on two standoffs only; it really sounds better that way... and I wouldn't try if I didn't see it in Shigaraki

That is really interesting , and it reminds me of the Rega Planar 9 turntable ( doing exception for the springs )

I will try that for sure , anyway in your Post#9 pictures it seems you are mounting the mechanism on all the 4 stands ....

Peter Daniel · 9th April 2008, 01:29 AM

That was a different approach where I intended to create as much contact area between mechanism plate and copper/brass chassis as posible, speculating that extensive damping may improve things. Unfortunately, it didn't work at all; the sound was dead and uninvolving. I later tried 4 spacers as pictured below, but even then ended up with only 2, and it was the best I could get from that assembly.

audio3000 · 9th April 2008, 03:07 AM

Just brought one from Bestbuy in Northland, Calgary.

A3K

johnm · 9th April 2008, 02:07 PM

Peter, do you think it would be OK to use a 47uF instead of 33uF capacitor in the 'E2' position as shown on the DIY mods PDF? I have a few Elna Cerafines in this value and I'd rather use those than pay £10 just for one Black Gate 33uF/postage.

Cheers,

- John

Peter Daniel · 9th April 2008, 02:09 PM

Of course it's not a problem to use different values. I used those, because of limited choice of BG N caps.

johnm · 9th April 2008, 02:33 PM

Great - thanks Peter

johnm · 9th April 2008, 04:50 PM

Okapi, just wanted to say thanks for the DIY PDF you posted here for download - have read it about 20 times now prior to receiving my JVC (hopefully tomorrow!!!).

Just one thing which could be updated - how about adding how to connect the LED for the LCD? I believe the power is taken from just after the rectifiers?

Cheers.

- John

9th April 2008, 12:32 AM	#211
Peter Daniel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada	The mods presented in pdf file are changes that suited my needs and my equipment, don't do them all at once. Start with clean PS: remove all ceramic caps, choke and 470uF cap (on board) mentioned in pdf file, then build external PS: good transformer with 24V CT or similar, 2 x MSR860 diodes, LM7808 regulator and 2 x 1000uF caps. BG STD is good choice after requaltor, before regulator you may try the same cap, BG FK or whatever else you find available and suitable. Then start replacing caps on board: you may find my choices working fine, or you may find that something else works better FOR YOU. But don't do it all at once, as you will loose track of what works and what not. The untouched board, with just PS mods, works quite well and some of you may find that additional adjustement are not needed at all. What I found though, is that mechanical build was quite important and it's definitely worth to do some work here. I started with acrylic platform, later switched to spruce board and only then found heavy frame on springs even better. It's also recommended to mount the mechanism on two standoffs only; it really sounds better that way... and I wouldn't try if I didn't see it in Shigaraki __________________ www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC

9th April 2008, 02:09 PM	#218
Peter Daniel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada	Of course it's not a problem to use different values. I used those, because of limited choice of BG N caps. __________________ www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC

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9th April 2008, 03:07 AM	#216
audio3000 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Canada	Just brought one from Bestbuy in Northland, Calgary. A3K

9th April 2008, 02:07 PM	#217
johnm diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Hampshire	Peter, do you think it would be OK to use a 47uF instead of 33uF capacitor in the 'E2' position as shown on the DIY mods PDF? I have a few Elna Cerafines in this value and I'd rather use those than pay £10 just for one Black Gate 33uF/postage. Cheers, - John

9th April 2008, 02:33 PM	#219
johnm diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Hampshire	Great - thanks Peter

9th April 2008, 04:50 PM	#220
johnm diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Hampshire	Okapi, just wanted to say thanks for the DIY PDF you posted here for download - have read it about 20 times now prior to receiving my JVC (hopefully tomorrow!!!). Just one thing which could be updated - how about adding how to connect the LED for the LCD? I believe the power is taken from just after the rectifiers? Cheers. - John