Yes, but why not take the other end off, it has more place to work around and it will be easier to manipulate later. The one you are refferring to goes through a slot in the board and the ribbon is tightly bent.
Thanks, will do.
Also looking at the original power supply board, looks like a bridge rectifier, with each individual rectifier bypassed with a cap.
Is there an advantage to this?
Is anyone using the original board (and transf.), and just replacing some of the parts?
thanks,
Paul
Also looking at the original power supply board, looks like a bridge rectifier, with each individual rectifier bypassed with a cap.
Is there an advantage to this?
Is anyone using the original board (and transf.), and just replacing some of the parts?
thanks,
Paul
The original diodes don't sound very good; You can use them for a start, but MSR860 are really a lot better.
The original trafo, on the other hand, is rather ok.
Can't comment on the diode bypasses as I haven't tried this.
The original trafo, on the other hand, is rather ok.
Can't comment on the diode bypasses as I haven't tried this.
quick question:
Why does the whole mechanism have to be removed from the boom box? Has anyone tried to just take an SPDIF signal directly from the boom box?
Why does the whole mechanism have to be removed from the boom box? Has anyone tried to just take an SPDIF signal directly from the boom box?
Dr. H:
I think a big part of the improvement of this unit is taking the drive from a hollow thin-walled plastic box ans placing it in a more stable 'plinth'.
Electronically it is greatly improved (and what you suggest would sound better than the internal boom box electronics and speakers); however I think maximum gain can be had through improvement of the mechanics as well as the electronics...
I think a big part of the improvement of this unit is taking the drive from a hollow thin-walled plastic box ans placing it in a more stable 'plinth'.
Electronically it is greatly improved (and what you suggest would sound better than the internal boom box electronics and speakers); however I think maximum gain can be had through improvement of the mechanics as well as the electronics...
The mounting makes a big difference. You can of course try it. You have nothing to lose. But a solid chassis will make a big difference in sound
What's the latest cheapest source of EZ31 or EZ51 ?
The sources in my country ask 99 Euro's for each, which I find is too much to buy one plus spares... I read some posts 2 years ago when they were still available for half this price or less...
Where o where?
The sources in my country ask 99 Euro's for each, which I find is too much to buy one plus spares... I read some posts 2 years ago when they were still available for half this price or less...
Where o where?
A friend of mine ordered EZ51 last week at EET NORDIC (google), he received 3 boxes a few days ago and they still have +50 in stock.
He will start this project soon and obviuosly I will help him if he wants/needs.
It will be a Peter Daniel version-like.....Small...Simple...and Shocking...😎
I bought 2 before Xmas for 30 Euros incl VAT & delivery.
Wish now I had bought more then.
😉
Patrick
Wish now I had bought more then.
😉
Patrick
50 euros, 100 euros... Either way, it's still the best transport you will likely ever have.
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Tnats true my homemade transport sounds better than my 1800 euros cd player ...
Can someone link me to the diagrams showing where power is connected for the keypad, LCD and cd spinner?
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
But connected to what? The power connectors are quite obviously marked on the CD board and LCD+keypad is powered off the CD board via white ribbon cable.
Power can also be connected to the cd board at the coils (which you removed, if you were following Peter's advice).
Power can also be connected to the cd board at the coils (which you removed, if you were following Peter's advice).
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