Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story - Page 2

Peter Daniel · 27th March 2008, 04:50 PM

When suspending mechanism from the bottom, using two spacers like this worked better than direct mount:

kevinkr · 27th March 2008, 04:56 PM

Tried Best Buy online, unfortunately they no longer carry this model.
I'll probably risk some low end units on eBay and see what I can come up with.

I found one I can buy for about $80 which is far more than I want to spend. Yeah I'm cheap..

Peter Daniel · 27th March 2008, 05:02 PM

Now, the clock. I tried Tent clock with a dedicated PS, but it didn't worked well. My findings has been quite similar what Romy says on his site:

http://www.goodsoundclub.com/Forums/...px?PostID=2171

I later installed Citizen 300-8441 crystal from DK and this is what I use till now:

steenoe · 27th March 2008, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by kevinkr

I found one I can buy for about $80 which is far more than I want to spend. Yeah I'm cheap..

Ya must be kiddin'

What is cheap?

Superb work Peter, as usual. The one that didnt work must have taken hours to make. Send it to me for proper disposal

Peter Daniel · 27th March 2008, 05:15 PM

Beside all that, there are few components that I replaced on original board (replacing too many will kill the sonics).

I basicaly removed the main filter cap and replaced all other electrolytics tied directly to rails with BG N caps and also removed their SMD bypasses. One other cap was replaced to ERO 1830, 0.1uF and that's basically all. Okapi will post PDF when it's ready.

One other thing, the output resistors are quite important, I got the best results with Caddock MK132 75R to ground and VishayS102 60R (or similar value) in series.

luvdunhill · 27th March 2008, 05:25 PM

any idea if and what flavor i2s might be available from the transport?

Peter Daniel · 27th March 2008, 05:32 PM

I'm afraid the I2S output is not available. Here's the underside of PCB.

Peter Daniel · 27th March 2008, 05:33 PM

And this is mechanism in all its glory

luvdunhill · 27th March 2008, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Peter Daniel
I'm afraid the I2S output is not available. Here's the underside of PCB.

what about pins 33-36 on the LC78620? I'm looking at the LC78620E datasheet, as I cannot make the exact number out from your photo. Looks to be i2s output.

Also, is the "B" designation important in the model?

d to the g · 27th March 2008, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by luvdunhill

Also, is the "B" designation important in the model?

The first post doesn't mention the B, but the image of Peter's storage facility shows all B models. I'd like to know as well.

27th March 2008, 04:50 PM	#11
Peter Daniel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada	When suspending mechanism from the bottom, using two spacers like this worked better than direct mount: __________________ www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC

27th March 2008, 04:56 PM	#12
kevinkr Contributing diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Boston, Massachusetts Blog Entries: 4	Tried Best Buy online, unfortunately they no longer carry this model. I'll probably risk some low end units on eBay and see what I can come up with. I found one I can buy for about $80 which is far more than I want to spend. Yeah I'm cheap.. __________________ www.kta-hifi.net

27th March 2008, 05:15 PM	#15
Peter Daniel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada	Beside all that, there are few components that I replaced on original board (replacing too many will kill the sonics). I basicaly removed the main filter cap and replaced all other electrolytics tied directly to rails with BG N caps and also removed their SMD bypasses. One other cap was replaced to ERO 1830, 0.1uF and that's basically all. Okapi will post PDF when it's ready. One other thing, the output resistors are quite important, I got the best results with Caddock MK132 75R to ground and VishayS102 60R (or similar value) in series. __________________ www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC

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27th March 2008, 05:25 PM	#16
luvdunhill diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2006	any idea if and what flavor i2s might be available from the transport?

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