This circuit really does seem to 'get everything in order' before it leaves the player - which IME translates into music that is - dare I say it? - more ordered(!), more tangible and more realistic.
After a couple of hours of listening, I agree with you. The first impression I got was a cleaner sound, more defined and it was confirmed track after track. Nothing extraordinary, but noticeable. It's always difficult to judge when you already know that something has changed, you can easily hear what you're expecting, real or not. But I'm quite sure that bass frequencies are improved, not in extension, but they're tighter and faster. Voices are very good and improved in clarity. I'm not satisfied with high frequencies. They seems to be more shrilling. I've a system in this moment that suffers in the high registry due to Aikido preamp in the making and I've noticed something worst in sibilants and cymbals for example. But with my previous commercial pre the highs were too soft, so I can't really judge it, maybe they're right now.
Massimo - actually the highs on my Shiga were a bit over the top when I first connected this up - after a while things calmed down - my de-coupling caps were brand new so took a while to burn in - remember they are across the important +5v supply in the player so some swapping might be needed once burned in.
are your caps new maybe?
are your caps new maybe?
actually the highs on my Shiga were a bit over the top when I first connected this up - after a while things calmed down
I understand. I didn't think about it. I'll judge it again in a few days.
are your caps new maybe?
new
herewego...
You are being such a great help.
I find the text difficult to read in the MS paint rendering.
Could you enlarge the script size?
Thanks
Ed - you should be able to read it if you enlarge the pic fully by clicking on the bottom LH corner - after the first click - in the icon thingy.
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Merlin, yes there is. Its a normally closed type if you are salvaging from something else.
The one from the JVC is in the door frame, has 2 wires that go back to a white push on connector that connects to the pcb under the mech.
I think its around the corner from the where the power supply goes in.
Fran
The one from the JVC is in the door frame, has 2 wires that go back to a white push on connector that connects to the pcb under the mech.
I think its around the corner from the where the power supply goes in.
Fran
Ok, thanks. I'll pull it out of the boombox.
Where is that (i think 4.7uf ) bypass capacitor supposed to go?
Thanks,
JG
I think Peter has suggested a 4.7u bypass might be needed across the first 1000u BG - the one before the reg - to tame some slight brightness.
you may not need it - have a listen and let your ears decide
Wow, it works!!
Almost can't believe that it actually works, first time out of the can!!
Here are my pics. Tell you what, my work looks a lot better when the photos are from far away!! (edit: the first 2 pics, I don't have the crystal in because it was still in the shiga but it goes right beside the resistor).
I've only listened for about 5 mins, and like herewegoagain I think its a little more on top right now, more transparent (better highs?), but also, the bass is much tighter. Difference isn;t massive, but is noticeable.
If it settles down a bit and becomes a shade smoother I will be a very happy camper.
How long did it take the rest of you to see this settle down?
Fran
Almost can't believe that it actually works, first time out of the can!!
Here are my pics. Tell you what, my work looks a lot better when the photos are from far away!! (edit: the first 2 pics, I don't have the crystal in because it was still in the shiga but it goes right beside the resistor).
I've only listened for about 5 mins, and like herewegoagain I think its a little more on top right now, more transparent (better highs?), but also, the bass is much tighter. Difference isn;t massive, but is noticeable.
If it settles down a bit and becomes a shade smoother I will be a very happy camper.
How long did it take the rest of you to see this settle down?
Fran
Attachments
Hello everyone!
i am reading through this entire thread, but I cannot finish now...
So, I'm saying hello, and placing this post (with a reminder-Post #2521) so I know where to pick back up with it!!
I have an ailing Theta Data and this project intrigues me...
Of course, it may do well to take the power supply out of the Theta and mod that, since Theta want nothing to do with it any longer...
Anyway, happy modding you crazy guys!
PS I have MANY questions, and would love to get together with other like-minded people on Long Island (New York).
Thanks again, and apologies for the derail! I want to finish reading it all!
i am reading through this entire thread, but I cannot finish now...
So, I'm saying hello, and placing this post (with a reminder-Post #2521) so I know where to pick back up with it!!
I have an ailing Theta Data and this project intrigues me...
Of course, it may do well to take the power supply out of the Theta and mod that, since Theta want nothing to do with it any longer...
Anyway, happy modding you crazy guys!
PS I have MANY questions, and would love to get together with other like-minded people on Long Island (New York).
Thanks again, and apologies for the derail! I want to finish reading it all!
Lol @ Jim
we've all been there mate - trying to read it all and soak up all the info and all the time it's getting longer and longer!! -
i think I've read this entire thread about 5 times now, start to finish and there is always something you missed last time around!!!
Fran - nice one & glad that you too seem to be pleased with your initial findings. Re: the slight brightness, it should calm down as your chosen caps burn in (is that a Panny FC you have used?) - of course you already have a whole bunch of other caps already on that rail so they all have to work together too - introducing one more was always likely to upset the balance a little. I have actually today replaced my re-clocker decoupling lytic - the sound just didn't settle down enough for me with the Ruby ZA. I've stuck an Elna Silmic in there now - perhaps it will work better with the BG's that are on that +5v rail on the board.
we've all been there mate - trying to read it all and soak up all the info and all the time it's getting longer and longer!! -
i think I've read this entire thread about 5 times now, start to finish and there is always something you missed last time around!!!
Fran - nice one & glad that you too seem to be pleased with your initial findings. Re: the slight brightness, it should calm down as your chosen caps burn in (is that a Panny FC you have used?) - of course you already have a whole bunch of other caps already on that rail so they all have to work together too - introducing one more was always likely to upset the balance a little. I have actually today replaced my re-clocker decoupling lytic - the sound just didn't settle down enough for me with the Ruby ZA. I've stuck an Elna Silmic in there now - perhaps it will work better with the BG's that are on that +5v rail on the board.
How long did it take the rest of you to see this settle down?
With an output transformer, I didn't need any settling time at all.
As I recall my initial observations, the original transport was a "bit annoying and thin sounding” although the transparency and ambiance seemed to be superior. The re-clocking circuit “produced sounds that are better defined in space".
I agree Peter - your phrase "better defined in space" describes the difference beautifully - I was finding it difficult to attach words but there is a certain 'rightness' to the sound now which I am finding intoxicating. The layering of instruments and vocals, in both depth and width is more convincing to my ears - because of this I am able to follow any little background riff, bass line or harmony easier now - it's much less of a mush when things get busy.
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