hi ERIK
due to my poor skills (impatience) I pulled out the stable platter mechanism disc from an old machine and simply used it as the basis for the puck. So instead of the ebony with the jvc central fixing puck i showed in a previous photo, i simply exchanged it for the aluminium disc. The contact between the rubber/aluminium and the cd disc is of course of poor close contact due to having to sink into it the original puck. However, for whatever mechanical reasons, e.g air vibration effects between disc and cd through the 'umbrella effect' it works best for me out of all the pucks i have tried.
So basically all i am saying is why not try a very thin plate of aluminium with a bit of rubber glued to its surface as an alternative material for a puck
Have fun.
You know what, i am fed up of removing the transport mech out of the boom box. I am gonna gut the boom box (speakers, tape mech radio etc) stiffen its walls and build a power supply inside. I then have the original cd mech and all its buttons in place, and to be honest will look better than my shoddy cosmetic attempts. I will have the power supply plug and in fact the transformer and its rectifiers already in place. I'm also keen to see what effect having the lid shut has, after all i am finding that pucks that cover the entire surface of the disc even without touching the cd's surface tend to sound best. Finally the cd mech will continue to sit on its spongy supports which feels very effective as a vibration absorber.
Luke
due to my poor skills (impatience) I pulled out the stable platter mechanism disc from an old machine and simply used it as the basis for the puck. So instead of the ebony with the jvc central fixing puck i showed in a previous photo, i simply exchanged it for the aluminium disc. The contact between the rubber/aluminium and the cd disc is of course of poor close contact due to having to sink into it the original puck. However, for whatever mechanical reasons, e.g air vibration effects between disc and cd through the 'umbrella effect' it works best for me out of all the pucks i have tried.
So basically all i am saying is why not try a very thin plate of aluminium with a bit of rubber glued to its surface as an alternative material for a puck
Have fun.
You know what, i am fed up of removing the transport mech out of the boom box. I am gonna gut the boom box (speakers, tape mech radio etc) stiffen its walls and build a power supply inside. I then have the original cd mech and all its buttons in place, and to be honest will look better than my shoddy cosmetic attempts. I will have the power supply plug and in fact the transformer and its rectifiers already in place. I'm also keen to see what effect having the lid shut has, after all i am finding that pucks that cover the entire surface of the disc even without touching the cd's surface tend to sound best. Finally the cd mech will continue to sit on its spongy supports which feels very effective as a vibration absorber.
Luke
Thanks Luke for the explanation...
Fran send me an ebony puck...and guess what...
What ebony does for an analog turntable it does for a digital turntable as well....
I decided not to try to understand what puck-resonances do..... but my first and very noticable impression that it changes my music for the better...After a while I can place a review for the interested.
Fran you made my day !!!!!
Fran send me an ebony puck...and guess what...
What ebony does for an analog turntable it does for a digital turntable as well....
I decided not to try to understand what puck-resonances do..... but my first and very noticable impression that it changes my music for the better...After a while I can place a review for the interested.
Fran you made my day !!!!!
Attachments
m.massimo said:
I thought the Citizen crystal was a quantum leap forward, and it was one of the very first changes I made to my interpretation of the Shigaclone. I thought they sounded kind of mediocre and indistinct with the stock resonator, sort of bland in a pleasant, but not involving kind of way. (This was true for both of my mechanisms) All of the changes I made were quite audible with my homebrew/TPA based DAC which has recently improved significantly with a change to PCM1794A chips from the PCM1798s I was previously using.
audiojoy said:
Shoddy workmanship aside half of the magic in this thing is in tightly coupling the mechanism chassis to some mass. I should think you might find just building a simple open chassis arrangement might be preferable sonically to sticking to that boombox - who cares what it actually looks like if it works ok. Perhaps you could enlist the help of someone local to make a nice box for it.
I am also a bit confused (pun not intended) Audiojoy...
You work with bybees and ebony while on the otherhand you want to put it in a plastic (be it reinforced by you) encasing....which will garantee you the loss of a lot of magic...
Be resourcefull and go find an existing case...loads of them on e-bay or new ones in shops.....pick whatever you like...wood or metal...but plasic is a no no......
This is a project that can evolve..... Take more time.........
You work with bybees and ebony while on the otherhand you want to put it in a plastic (be it reinforced by you) encasing....which will garantee you the loss of a lot of magic...
Be resourcefull and go find an existing case...loads of them on e-bay or new ones in shops.....pick whatever you like...wood or metal...but plasic is a no no......
This is a project that can evolve..... Take more time.........
Ah yes but it looks neat and smart and i have the buttons and a read out and it can be picked up with a handle. Still sounds great.
ok ok will give it a go in something massy, not yet convinced that that will be as important as the rest of the tweaks I have done.
How much of the mechanism is actually touching plastic???it sits almost entirely in free air and is decoupled from a tiny portion of the boom box's plastic via the rubber suspension. If there had been a drawer mechanism with the platter sitting in it then i would have agreed that there was far too much plastic in contact with the mechanism, but this is not the case with this transport mech.
I have lots of ebony about and could do a crude seat mechanism inside the boom box to sit the mechanism on.
Will feedback the findings shortly
ok ok will give it a go in something massy, not yet convinced that that will be as important as the rest of the tweaks I have done.
How much of the mechanism is actually touching plastic???it sits almost entirely in free air and is decoupled from a tiny portion of the boom box's plastic via the rubber suspension. If there had been a drawer mechanism with the platter sitting in it then i would have agreed that there was far too much plastic in contact with the mechanism, but this is not the case with this transport mech.
I have lots of ebony about and could do a crude seat mechanism inside the boom box to sit the mechanism on.
Will feedback the findings shortly
Erik,
glad you enjoyed the puck. Apart from the sonics, wood and ebony in particular is a joy to use and hold.
I just hope it stays stable now....
If I get time I will do a post showing how I made the spindle insert and puck.
Most interested to hear anybody else's experience with puck/holddown materials/methods.
Kevinkr, Peter, Johnm et al, what do you guys use?
Fran
glad you enjoyed the puck. Apart from the sonics, wood and ebony in particular is a joy to use and hold.
I just hope it stays stable now....
If I get time I will do a post showing how I made the spindle insert and puck.
Most interested to hear anybody else's experience with puck/holddown materials/methods.
Kevinkr, Peter, Johnm et al, what do you guys use?
Fran
ok several hours later.......
built a crude box out of ebony (without the top), the ebony wood is about 1cm thick and surprisingly very heavy. Embedded the transport into this with screws holding it firmly directly onto the ebony. I then attached the ebony box onto the boom box interior, separating the ebony box from the plastic via springs. So from the outside it appears as though the boom box has been kept intact.
Yes agreed major improvement in sound far more presence and naturalness of tone, sharp highs have gone as well. Very impressed indeed, I wonder if its the ebony rather than the mass???
However i still get to keep the boom box fully intact in all its glory, except for its guts. The power supply is built from scratch as there was plenty of room inside for a large transformer, loads of uf, MUR diodes a simple regulator and if possible i might try an inductor later on as there is so much room in it.
Thanks for the tip.
built a crude box out of ebony (without the top), the ebony wood is about 1cm thick and surprisingly very heavy. Embedded the transport into this with screws holding it firmly directly onto the ebony. I then attached the ebony box onto the boom box interior, separating the ebony box from the plastic via springs. So from the outside it appears as though the boom box has been kept intact.
Yes agreed major improvement in sound far more presence and naturalness of tone, sharp highs have gone as well. Very impressed indeed, I wonder if its the ebony rather than the mass???
However i still get to keep the boom box fully intact in all its glory, except for its guts. The power supply is built from scratch as there was plenty of room inside for a large transformer, loads of uf, MUR diodes a simple regulator and if possible i might try an inductor later on as there is so much room in it.
Thanks for the tip.
audiojoy said:
Hi
You may want to look at these cases.
http://www.autocostruire.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=43&osCsid=32c971a4b746a2b69567ce9f97503142
I recently purchased a couple for an Amp product but I also thought it could be a used to house the Shigaclone transport.
You will need to add some weight and this can easily be achieved by bolting a slab of granite to the base.
The build quality is really quite good for the money and the service friendly.
I hope this helps
Richard
Hi fellows!
Was able to buy the model 31 a week ago in a The Sourc3 store. It was the last one available while I searched on the internet through store finder. May I point to whom who may still search one that I saw a demo in a Z3llers store. They still seem to sell them.
I've been reading this thread for the past week and a half (at night time when kids are a sleep), I am now at p.38 which I find long but very captivating. I am looking forward in doing this transport the best I can but without busting the wallet and time. I would like to hear it soon with pretty much all of it's components but take my time with the chassis. So I will need your help in the upcoming weeks.
Understand that I am not very knowledged in active electronics but more in the loudspeaker design and tweaking. So some of my questions will be pretty much basic.
First, since I haven't had to to read all the pages yet and would like to probably order the parts from Digikey and Parts Connexion, I'd like to know If there is a more updated document than May 3rd 2008 from Algar emi (CD Flatfish notes)?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1468036#post1468036
If not, does anyone have newer suggestions as regarding this document or to choosing different parts.
My second question refers to the transformer suggested. Rather than ordering one, so to save a bit of money, I can scrounge one from a PSU used to power up my old HP Deskjet printer. I know that it is suggested 12-24-12V outputs from Peter's PS schematic:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1500475#post1500475
but the one I have available says:
Mfr. AT&T 3301A2
Input: 120 VAC 0.4A 50VA
Output: 10−0−10 VAC 2.0A 40VA
Can I possibly use this unit? If yes, will I need to change any parts value?
Third question comes from my friend. Has anyone compared the Shigaclone to a NEC CDR-602 external CD drive? Let's say, I'm very curious also. I listen to it alot and my friend has compared it to very expensive units in the past years and confirms that it scores mostly above. Sorry, I forgot which model he refered to.
Thanks and Cheers!
Was able to buy the model 31 a week ago in a The Sourc3 store. It was the last one available while I searched on the internet through store finder. May I point to whom who may still search one that I saw a demo in a Z3llers store. They still seem to sell them.
I've been reading this thread for the past week and a half (at night time when kids are a sleep), I am now at p.38 which I find long but very captivating. I am looking forward in doing this transport the best I can but without busting the wallet and time. I would like to hear it soon with pretty much all of it's components but take my time with the chassis. So I will need your help in the upcoming weeks.
Understand that I am not very knowledged in active electronics but more in the loudspeaker design and tweaking. So some of my questions will be pretty much basic.
First, since I haven't had to to read all the pages yet and would like to probably order the parts from Digikey and Parts Connexion, I'd like to know If there is a more updated document than May 3rd 2008 from Algar emi (CD Flatfish notes)?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1468036#post1468036
If not, does anyone have newer suggestions as regarding this document or to choosing different parts.
My second question refers to the transformer suggested. Rather than ordering one, so to save a bit of money, I can scrounge one from a PSU used to power up my old HP Deskjet printer. I know that it is suggested 12-24-12V outputs from Peter's PS schematic:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1500475#post1500475
but the one I have available says:
Mfr. AT&T 3301A2
Input: 120 VAC 0.4A 50VA
Output: 10−0−10 VAC 2.0A 40VA
Can I possibly use this unit? If yes, will I need to change any parts value?
Third question comes from my friend. Has anyone compared the Shigaclone to a NEC CDR-602 external CD drive? Let's say, I'm very curious also. I listen to it alot and my friend has compared it to very expensive units in the past years and confirms that it scores mostly above. Sorry, I forgot which model he refered to.
Thanks and Cheers!
My current recommendation is to build the transport according to info posted here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1669753#post1669753 After getting familiar with a sound, you may consider further upgrades, but most likely you won't need them.
The transformer you mention should work fine.
As to NEC CDR-602, it has a good reputation although I never had a chance to try it out, but my feeling is that properly implemented Shigaclone is completely different ball game
The transformer you mention should work fine.
As to NEC CDR-602, it has a good reputation although I never had a chance to try it out, but my feeling is that properly implemented Shigaclone is completely different ball game
Made more changes.
Removed C964, C945 and C942. No changes in sound, as expected cause these caps should be related to analog output and on-board DAC.
Swapped stock C939 100uF/10 with a ELNA RFS 100uF/25. At first, bad result, a much brighter sound, too much for me. After about 10hours, brightness has gone away in large part, the sound is good, something more in terms of body, but I'm not completely sure it's overall better than the stock.
I'll wait another 10 or 20 hours before installing again the stock cap and take the final decision about this cap.
Removed C964, C945 and C942. No changes in sound, as expected cause these caps should be related to analog output and on-board DAC.
Swapped stock C939 100uF/10 with a ELNA RFS 100uF/25. At first, bad result, a much brighter sound, too much for me. After about 10hours, brightness has gone away in large part, the sound is good, something more in terms of body, but I'm not completely sure it's overall better than the stock.
I'll wait another 10 or 20 hours before installing again the stock cap and take the final decision about this cap.
m.massimo said:
This will be never ending story unless you take a closer look at the boombox schema and LC/LA data sheets and try to understand what's it all about...
Honestly, when I read such reports on juggling with caps and wasting time on completely hopeless efforts, the only thing I can say is: I feel sorry...
