Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story - Page 161 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Source & Line > Digital Source

Digital Source Digital Players and Recorders: CD , SACD , Tape, Memory Card, etc.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 2nd August 2008, 08:52 PM   #1601
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Canada
Quote:
Originally posted by jonners


I just want to report that I tried this method of connecting a separate 5V supply but couldn't get it to work. The disc would spin for a while but when it stopped the display showed zero and the disc wouldn't play.
Click the image to open in full size.

I've been looking at this and have some questions.

First we can see where L901 is removed to supply our 8vdc. To supply a separate 5v we have to remove Q902 and supply +5vdc to the opening left by the collector or to the + side of C916.

The negative sides of the +8 and +5 supplies would have to be reference (tied) together and be powered up at the same time?

I was wondering if we could tap into Peter's original supply just after the diodes and regulate down to a +5v supply from there?

Click the image to open in full size.

Regards,
Dan
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd August 2008, 09:21 PM   #1602
jonners is offline jonners  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
jonners's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Cheltenham
Quote:
Originally posted by dantwomey



I've been looking at this and have some questions.

First we can see where L901 is removed to supply our 8vdc. To supply a separate 5v we have to remove Q902 and supply +5vdc to the opening left by the collector or to the + side of C916.

The negative sides of the +8 and +5 supplies would have to be reference (tied) together and be powered up at the same time?

I was wondering if we could tap into Peter's original supply just after the diodes and regulate down to a +5v supply from there?


Regards,
Dan
Hello Dan
Yes, you can certainly tap the supply after the diodes to supply a 5V regulator.

The 8V and 5V supplies would then be sharing a common earth so you would only need one earth connection to the board.

However, as I said - I can't get this to work! This was, I believe, a suggestion that Peter made which he hadn't actually tried. The method he used was to cut the trace leading from the collector and connect the 5V there, but this looks difficult to me - I think the trace that needs to be cut is under the heatsink.

John
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd August 2008, 09:28 PM   #1603
diyAudio Member
 
Erik van Voorst's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Rotterdam
Today I nearly finished the external power supply box and I worked on the transport lower deck...a nice damping bottom for the trafo's
Attached Images
File Type: jpg boxback.jpg (59.3 KB, 1247 views)
__________________
To baldly go where no man has gone before................(James Kirk)
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd August 2008, 09:29 PM   #1604
diyAudio Member
 
Erik van Voorst's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Rotterdam
The piTbull logo is temporarily attached with two sided adhesive tape for a try out....
Attached Images
File Type: jpg boxdog.jpg (49.2 KB, 1255 views)
__________________
To baldly go where no man has gone before................(James Kirk)
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd August 2008, 09:30 PM   #1605
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Canada
Quote:
Originally posted by jonners


Hello Dan
Yes, you can certainly tap the supply after the diodes to supply a 5V regulator.

The 8V and 5V supplies would then be sharing a common earth so you would only need one earth connection to the board.

However, as I said - I can't get this to work! This was, I believe, a suggestion that Peter made which he hadn't actually tried. The method he used was to cut the trace leading from the collector and connect the 5V there, but this looks difficult to me - that trace that needs to be cut seems to disappear under the heatsink.

John
I'm missing why the trace would need to be cut. Couldn't we not use the collector pad from the removed Q902 as the location for the +5v wire? This leads to C916 which feeds the +5v to the require areas?

Regards,
Dan
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd August 2008, 09:32 PM   #1606
diyAudio Member
 
Erik van Voorst's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Rotterdam
The lower deck is now firmly supported by four massive copper tubes with approx. 6 mm wallthickness...and high enough to mount electronic boards such as regulators and a clock...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg copperfull.jpg (61.6 KB, 1309 views)
__________________
To baldly go where no man has gone before................(James Kirk)
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd August 2008, 09:36 PM   #1607
jonners is offline jonners  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
jonners's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Cheltenham
Quote:
Originally posted by dantwomey


I'm missing why the trace would need to be cut. Couldn't we not use the collector pad from the removed Q902 as the location for the +5v wire? This leads to C916 which feeds the +5v to the require areas?

Regards,
Dan

I believe Peter left Q902 in place, and cut the trace instead of removing it.

John
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd August 2008, 09:55 PM   #1608
kanifee is offline kanifee  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
erik how did you aquire such industrial size pieces of copper, they seem so rare these days, the plate and tubing is of measurements beyond the normal end user market. your design seems to stear quite far away from your organelle mock up, where are you taking this design?
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd August 2008, 10:34 PM   #1609
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Canada
Quote:
Originally posted by jonners



I believe Peter left Q902 in place, and cut the trace instead of removing it.

John
Yes. The jumper wire listed in playermods.pdf goes to the + side of C916. You could just cut the trace and feed your +5v there.

Regards,
Dan
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd August 2008, 11:23 PM   #1610
jonners is offline jonners  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
jonners's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Cheltenham
Quote:
Originally posted by dantwomey


Yes. The jumper wire listed in playermods.pdf goes to the + side of C916. You could just cut the trace and feed your +5v there.

Regards,
Dan

Yes, I think you're right Dan. But the schematic doesn't entirely agree with what's on the board. (Erik did refer to mistakes). The schematic shows the +side of C954 connecting only to the LA6541 chip. On the board it connects with the 5V+ at C916! (Mind you, I do have the EZ51 not the 31 - but all the component numbering etc. looks the same to me.)

John
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 09:09 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2