Peter I do hope you are not serious about your last comment.
As enthousiastic as I became reading your posts I went further because your basic set-up with some of your mods still evolved with my every next step.
I would definitely still try to get the readers as enthousiast as you got me in the first place therefore if someone wishes to go
''...one step beyond'' the naked boombox-version I will surely try to help as far as I have the time and knowledge...
With this DIY-Shiga sky is the limit...or your budget...
Sorry to differ here Peter.
As enthousiastic as I became reading your posts I went further because your basic set-up with some of your mods still evolved with my every next step.
I would definitely still try to get the readers as enthousiast as you got me in the first place therefore if someone wishes to go
''...one step beyond'' the naked boombox-version I will surely try to help as far as I have the time and knowledge...
With this DIY-Shiga sky is the limit...or your budget...
Sorry to differ here Peter.
The are no differences here, all I meant that going few steps beyond may require more effort than simply following set of instructions. The results are unpredictable, don't always guarantee success and a lot experimenting is required. It just may not be everybody's cup of tea, because one needs to use own judgement what sounds good. That what I meant by being on your own.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-uyWAe0NhQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-uyWAe0NhQ
As I previously said (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1777578#post1777578), my shiga sometimes stopped abruptly. Yesterday evening was completely dead. No way. So I checked all the soldering I recently made (thank to woodturner-fran for the suggestion), and found a cold one on C916. Shiga is back again now and door switch works properly.
It's really a funny game!
It's really a funny game!
Before shiga died, I listened to a couple of CDs and I confirm that C906 original cap is better than the 0.1uF polypropylene film I tried (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1780349#post1780349).
Ok,
I said I was finished with this... but no!
After the encouragement from Erik et al, I decided to have another go. So heres the threaded spindle. M6 thread on a piece of brass rod I turned down from 8mm to 6.07mm which sits snugly into the existing platter and then the rest down ever so slightly undersized for the M6 thread. Plan there was that the puck would then spin on easily.
The fact that it just sits in there is really great - very easy to reverse.
So then the puck. I made this from ebony and it took a few goes to get it right. For anyone interested in having a go at this themselves, you need to rough turn it down to pretty close to finished size, drill out the centre spindle and tap the thread. Then make up a mandrel with an M6 thread on your lathe and face both sides of the puck, doing each face several times until both are absolutely parallel. Then check that you have enough clearance in the centre for the platter and sand to finish.
The critical dimensions are all based on the pic that Erik sent me - I think it might have come from the ?korean/singapore fella that made some platter/pucks combos some time waaayy back. The whole puck though is not exactly as per the drawing, but should be ok. On my deck it runs true and smooth.
Listening to follow later tonight.
Fran
I said I was finished with this... but no!
After the encouragement from Erik et al, I decided to have another go. So heres the threaded spindle. M6 thread on a piece of brass rod I turned down from 8mm to 6.07mm which sits snugly into the existing platter and then the rest down ever so slightly undersized for the M6 thread. Plan there was that the puck would then spin on easily.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The fact that it just sits in there is really great - very easy to reverse.
So then the puck. I made this from ebony and it took a few goes to get it right. For anyone interested in having a go at this themselves, you need to rough turn it down to pretty close to finished size, drill out the centre spindle and tap the thread. Then make up a mandrel with an M6 thread on your lathe and face both sides of the puck, doing each face several times until both are absolutely parallel. Then check that you have enough clearance in the centre for the platter and sand to finish.
The critical dimensions are all based on the pic that Erik sent me - I think it might have come from the ?korean/singapore fella that made some platter/pucks combos some time waaayy back. The whole puck though is not exactly as per the drawing, but should be ok. On my deck it runs true and smooth.
Listening to follow later tonight.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Fran
one step beyond - madness may be but fun exciting and like being at the forefront of scientific research, The quest for time travel will for ever make us search for that last bit of realism.
I am ordering another three ez51,s now only £20 each in the uk.
Those tiny surface caps are really bothering me in a rather primitive manner...... they look like bottlenecks but i am no electronic engineer and cannot qualify that statement. But i do know that changing two tiny caps in the power supply pathway of the shigalone made a significant difference, imagine how many of those buggers on there!!
Just changed surface mount voltage regulators in VALAB's TDA1543 dac with lm317 again an apparent significant improvement in sound!!
I am gonna go for another trial of surface mount cap changes, try the bybees,my own DIY version-similar effect,try a pioneer stable platter turntable disc as the puck with its aluminium and rubber mat, add mass to the cd motor spinning wheel, finally consider the digitalampizator as i have already built and successfully used one. Hope I can find the time.
I am ordering another three ez51,s now only £20 each in the uk.
Those tiny surface caps are really bothering me in a rather primitive manner...... they look like bottlenecks but i am no electronic engineer and cannot qualify that statement. But i do know that changing two tiny caps in the power supply pathway of the shigalone made a significant difference, imagine how many of those buggers on there!!
Just changed surface mount voltage regulators in VALAB's TDA1543 dac with lm317 again an apparent significant improvement in sound!!
I am gonna go for another trial of surface mount cap changes, try the bybees,my own DIY version-similar effect,try a pioneer stable platter turntable disc as the puck with its aluminium and rubber mat, add mass to the cd motor spinning wheel, finally consider the digitalampizator as i have already built and successfully used one. Hope I can find the time.
Next job will be to compare this ebony puck with another made from some resin (don't know what the resin is exactly but its really heavy and feels like stone/cermic - what I used under the second build).
Then we will know if its somethign in particular about ebony/wood or if its the tighter clamping action.
More comments later!
Fran
Then we will know if its somethign in particular about ebony/wood or if its the tighter clamping action.
More comments later!
Fran
