getting it centred accuratley is indeed the problem. I might have a go at this in ebony or I think I have some mopane in big enough section to do it.
My last one in alu I drilled in from the topside of the puck and inserted some neodymium magnets from a kids toy (geomag?) to act as magnets. That bit worked very well, but it wasn't centgred accuratley enough.
Fran
My last one in alu I drilled in from the topside of the puck and inserted some neodymium magnets from a kids toy (geomag?) to act as magnets. That bit worked very well, but it wasn't centgred accuratley enough.
Fran
getting it centred accuratley is indeed the problem. I might have a go at this in ebony or I think I have some mopane in big enough section to do it.
My last one in alu I drilled in from the topside of the puck and inserted some neodymium magnets from a kids toy (geomag?) to act as magnets. That bit worked very well, but it wasn't centgred accuratley enough.
Fran
My last one in alu I drilled in from the topside of the puck and inserted some neodymium magnets from a kids toy (geomag?) to act as magnets. That bit worked very well, but it wasn't centgred accuratley enough.
Fran
woodturner-fran said:Now thats a nice idea. How did you fix that in there?
Fran
Just insertion, its only scope is let the puck to be centered.
The hole is 6mm diameter.
The pin I used is nominal 6mm, 5.94mm real.
I put just a little piece of alu foil (that used in cooking) inside the hole.
Attachments
if you go to the original plan for the shigalone
http://tim.cheapo.cc/images/CD player mods.pdf
it is the caps marked 2 on the back of the board adjacent to the clock pins
http://tim.cheapo.cc/images/CD player mods.pdf
it is the caps marked 2 on the back of the board adjacent to the clock pins
A strange thing happened yesterday evening.
During a cd listening, shiga abruptly stopped and display showed 00.
There was no way to work again. Door switch didn't work as well (switch itself is ok). Turning power off and on gave no positive result.
This morning everything is ok again.
Has anyone experienced something like this?
During a cd listening, shiga abruptly stopped and display showed 00.
There was no way to work again. Door switch didn't work as well (switch itself is ok). Turning power off and on gave no positive result.
This morning everything is ok again.
Has anyone experienced something like this?
PS. just so there is no confusion. I am still using the same clock from which i received the perceived significant improvements..... possibly more so than using the ebony puck...... but need a few more of you to confirm this. The surface mount caps needless to say must be gently heated and then lifted off with a tweezer.
I might have a go at a puck later audiojoy.
Tweakers news:
I had built a second shiga for a friend. I had done all the okapi pdf mods except add the new citizen crystal. Sound was ok, but had a bit of an edge. Not as nice to listen to as mine, but that was a similar but different construction.
Anyway, I changed the stock crystal for the citizen one and got an immediate and clear improvement in sonics. That last bit of edge is gone, so things like a sibilant recording no longer cut your ears off. The second unit now sounds very similar to my own first one. Maybe mine is ever so slightly more "relaxed" sounding.
I don't know how this would work out if i hadn't changed the other components, but in this build it certainly brought it to a new level.
Fran
Tweakers news:
I had built a second shiga for a friend. I had done all the okapi pdf mods except add the new citizen crystal. Sound was ok, but had a bit of an edge. Not as nice to listen to as mine, but that was a similar but different construction.
Anyway, I changed the stock crystal for the citizen one and got an immediate and clear improvement in sonics. That last bit of edge is gone, so things like a sibilant recording no longer cut your ears off. The second unit now sounds very similar to my own first one. Maybe mine is ever so slightly more "relaxed" sounding.
I don't know how this would work out if i hadn't changed the other components, but in this build it certainly brought it to a new level.
Fran
first attempt at a new puck.
This one is from cocbolo, nice dense hardwood. I turned the brass pin from 8mm stock. The bit that goes into the mech is 6.10mm, the rest is a shade under 6mm to allow it to slide into a 6mm hole in the puck. Second pic shows the puck in place. No magnets used here, just friction fit. Runs true and I tried it out on a spare second mechanism just with the motor powered up. No extra vibration as far as I could feel (not very scientific I know).
I was half thinking of making up some kind of jig to allow me to make the puck in place on the spare mechanism. The motor isn't so tough though. Anyway, I hope to get to listen to this later on and see how it sounds.
Fran
This one is from cocbolo, nice dense hardwood. I turned the brass pin from 8mm stock. The bit that goes into the mech is 6.10mm, the rest is a shade under 6mm to allow it to slide into a 6mm hole in the puck. Second pic shows the puck in place. No magnets used here, just friction fit. Runs true and I tried it out on a spare second mechanism just with the motor powered up. No extra vibration as far as I could feel (not very scientific I know).
I was half thinking of making up some kind of jig to allow me to make the puck in place on the spare mechanism. The motor isn't so tough though. Anyway, I hope to get to listen to this later on and see how it sounds.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Fran
