The transformer should have single 12V secondary, or 24V CT.
You can use any type, including toroid. I suspect that EI CT might work slightly better though.
As to VA rating, 30VA is probably fine.
The PS boards come from F3/F4 group buy: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1230598#post1230598
I still have some available and single section (half of the board)will cost $10. However, that PS is so simple that it's not a problem to build it on veroboard, that's actually what I did in my transport:
You can use any type, including toroid. I suspect that EI CT might work slightly better though.
As to VA rating, 30VA is probably fine.
The PS boards come from F3/F4 group buy: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1230598#post1230598
I still have some available and single section (half of the board)will cost $10. However, that PS is so simple that it's not a problem to build it on veroboard, that's actually what I did in my transport:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Has anyone experimented with C906 yet? The original part that comes with the JVC is a 0.1uF, electrolytic.
On the Sanyo PDF for the LA9242 chip this part is listed as being 0.068uF - quite a difference.
I'm going to try an Arcotronics polypropylene 0.1uF, and also a 0.047uF which I have to hand. I'm interested what other people's experiences have been with this cap - I know Peter favours 0.01uF EVO.
Anybody know whether 47 Labs used something other than the JVC standard 0.1uf?
Cheers,
- John
On the Sanyo PDF for the LA9242 chip this part is listed as being 0.068uF - quite a difference.
I'm going to try an Arcotronics polypropylene 0.1uF, and also a 0.047uF which I have to hand. I'm interested what other people's experiences have been with this cap - I know Peter favours 0.01uF EVO.
Anybody know whether 47 Labs used something other than the JVC standard 0.1uf?
Cheers,
- John
shigaclone
Hi guys, just aquestion regarding removing one of the cap which is cover by the chip heatsink. Do i have to remove the heatsink ?
I noted that Okapi mentioned that don't bend the sink as it will bend the board?
In regard to the o.1uF cap- would a mundorf polyprop be ok?
BG are impossible to get from OZ.
Hi guys, just aquestion regarding removing one of the cap which is cover by the chip heatsink. Do i have to remove the heatsink ?
I noted that Okapi mentioned that don't bend the sink as it will bend the board?
In regard to the o.1uF cap- would a mundorf polyprop be ok?
BG are impossible to get from OZ.
i think what i said in the pdf was that bending the heat sink will cause a permanent separation between the sink and the chip. not that it will bend the board. a gap between the sink and the chip will lead to overheating.
i removed the caps under the heat sink with two soldering irons without removing the heat sinkd. both irons had with relatively fine tips.
i removed the caps under the heat sink with two soldering irons without removing the heat sinkd. both irons had with relatively fine tips.
Re: shigaclone
I couldn't find too many caps that were better than the original 0.1uF electrolytic. After you replace it, check and compare, which one sounds better to you
One other thing, to avoid damaging PCB through constant soldering/desoldering it's recommended to install some kind of sockets for testing comparisons.
quan said:
I couldn't find too many caps that were better than the original 0.1uF electrolytic. After you replace it, check and compare, which one sounds better to you
One other thing, to avoid damaging PCB through constant soldering/desoldering it's recommended to install some kind of sockets for testing comparisons.
Verdict on RCEZ32 - YES!!!
Finally got all of the bits and pieces separated from the boom box, wired everything up that was absolutely necessary. (Basically everything but the tuner board, cassette mechanism, and analog signal wiring..) Right now I have 3 pcb plus the stock power supply.
Fired it up to make sure it would play a disk.. It did. Added wiring to the spdif out. Played the disk, and found valid spdif at the output.
Wired up a voltage divider and connected it to my dac.. Voila - Music!
It sounds ok at this point and once I figure out what I can remove and start cleaning stuff up I should be all set. Planning to eliminate the audio board at some point - right now there are signals coming from it that are necessary for operation. I'll figure it out.. Hoping to consolidate to 2 pcb plus supply.
Finally got all of the bits and pieces separated from the boom box, wired everything up that was absolutely necessary. (Basically everything but the tuner board, cassette mechanism, and analog signal wiring..) Right now I have 3 pcb plus the stock power supply.
Fired it up to make sure it would play a disk.. It did. Added wiring to the spdif out. Played the disk, and found valid spdif at the output.
Wired up a voltage divider and connected it to my dac.. Voila - Music!
It sounds ok at this point and once I figure out what I can remove and start cleaning stuff up I should be all set. Planning to eliminate the audio board at some point - right now there are signals coming from it that are necessary for operation. I'll figure it out.. Hoping to consolidate to 2 pcb plus supply.
I didn't mention anything about the sound, however I hear it has potential - it's quite lively, the highs are a bit hashy. There does seem to be some sense of stage and the presence is quite pleasing.
This unit is box stock and the resistors I used for the spdif level reduction are quite dreadful.. The original values I chose are not the right ones for the amplitude I measured which was 5Vpp...
This unit is box stock and the resistors I used for the spdif level reduction are quite dreadful..
The original values I chose are not the right ones for the amplitude I measured which was 5Vpp...
DaveM said:It drives me nuts to find a great thread like this and not be able to get the parts. Arrgghh! Any ideas on where a box might be found? I have been considering doing a CD Pro, but the cost has scared me off. This would fit my budget and intent. But alas, no sacrificial lamb.
I may have a source in Canada. visions.ca. They won't ship direct to the US though. I have one coming and I'll verify it's really the correct model and let people know. They say they have loads in stock and can get more from JVC...
I'll believe it when I see it.
Update, I just thought I would mention that the RCEZ32 has very complex uP managed power control, a clock and a bunch of other features the RCEZ31 does not. It has a much more informative display, and listening to it I believe once I have it all figured out it will be excellent.
I would choose this unit as a last resort, or if I was up to a real challenge - I will certainly have a shigaclone like no other when I am done - but I will probably be building a board to replace the functionality of the existing audio board which has a lot of power supply stuff that is necessary for this version, but needs to be upgraded.
I'm listening to it right now, and I will say it shows promise, but sounds no where close to as good as my media server. I will need to investigate mods to the mechanism and its board.
I would choose this unit as a last resort, or if I was up to a real challenge - I will certainly have a shigaclone like no other when I am done - but I will probably be building a board to replace the functionality of the existing audio board which has a lot of power supply stuff that is necessary for this version, but needs to be upgraded.
I'm listening to it right now, and I will say it shows promise, but sounds no where close to as good as my media server. I will need to investigate mods to the mechanism and its board.
