Its realy alive now..
I have been testing differents output resistors, 301/100 worked best on my DAC.. Tomorrow i will remove L901 and trye some new caps in my psu..
Ihave been werry inspired from pics of the beautyfull cd player know as Lektor V (http://www.ancient.com.pl/e_lektor.htm) so iam gonna trye to copy that look
I have been testing differents output resistors, 301/100 worked best on my DAC.. Tomorrow i will remove L901 and trye some new caps in my psu..
Ihave been werry inspired from pics of the beautyfull cd player know as Lektor V (http://www.ancient.com.pl/e_lektor.htm) so iam gonna trye to copy that look
Peter Daniel said:
Without soft start you may have problems with diodes blowing
Personally, I usually prefer as little capacitance as possible.
I got the idea from this cdplayer, and this one is not an DIY player .. looks like a mess in ther but nice on the outside
anyway iam saving my big caps for an nie amp
Sorry Peter to bother you once again, but I have some more questions for you:
In your lastest transport, the exact value/type of the BG used in the pw supply are: 1st and 2nd cap close to the LM7808 are BG 1000/25 std, the latter bypassed by a 4.7/50 N. Than, after the on board transistor suppling 5V another BG 47/50 N. Correct?
What do you think if I replace the 47/50 N with a 100/16 FK? I have some of these caps unused.
Where did you source the frosted acrylic top? Did you find some cutouts? In my town I can find std types (glossy) cut to measure, but Perspex Frost (made by Lucite) only on special order and I have to buy an big exepensive sheet (1 x 2 m)
No problem with the copper sheet: I got an heavy piece (1.8 kg) cut to measure 230 x 170 x 5 mm for 15 euros, not bad.
In your lastest transport, the exact value/type of the BG used in the pw supply are: 1st and 2nd cap close to the LM7808 are BG 1000/25 std, the latter bypassed by a 4.7/50 N. Than, after the on board transistor suppling 5V another BG 47/50 N. Correct?
What do you think if I replace the 47/50 N with a 100/16 FK? I have some of these caps unused.
Where did you source the frosted acrylic top? Did you find some cutouts? In my town I can find std types (glossy) cut to measure, but Perspex Frost (made by Lucite) only on special order and I have to buy an big exepensive sheet (1 x 2 m)
No problem with the copper sheet: I got an heavy piece (1.8 kg) cut to measure 230 x 170 x 5 mm for 15 euros, not bad.
Good. I go to Bologna quite often, can you pls send me a pm with the address?m.massimo said:
40 € is f
ing expensive. The very best acrylic 5 mm sheet (Plexiglas made by Rohm or Perspex made by Lucite) costs about 70 €/m2 + VAT. 200 x 250 mm equals to 0.05 m2. Add 2 or 3 € for the cut, and it's still a rryOk, it's cut with a CNC machine and a laser torch, but I (we) don't need it, unless they can make every special cuts I need for spindle, laser assembly and push buttons following a dwg file.
Laser cut is OK if you want to have the cut glossy after polishing, but with frosted finishing, matt is better. And this can be done milling the edge and then using a belt sander. In other word, if they use a normal band o mitre saw instead of laser it's OK if not better.
Finished building my CD player..It's just an upside-down bamboo bowl .
Just removed C952, C916 and associated decouplers (as Peter suggested). Re-placed and re-located C916 so I can test different makes of cap (at some time in the future) with ease.
Managed to fit the display board in one piece, so that made life a lot simpler.
.Just removed C952, C916 and associated decouplers (as Peter suggested). Re-placed and re-located C916 so I can test different makes of cap (at some time in the future) with ease.
Managed to fit the display board in one piece, so that made life a lot simpler.
Attachments
The versatile brain at work during shopping
with your wife e.g.......kudo''s Audio1st
Today starting with the last bits and pieces...spraying all the copper....after sanding it with a machine and grain 60...to give it a brushed appearance.
I use hammerite clear metal varnish spray ....a 5 coat will do to give a bit of depth...every hour a new coating.
For difficult to reach parts I use Zappon Metal Laquer with a brush...2 coats will do...to give it a silky shine like a dim lit tree....
The 12 mm copper wheel-like objects are the handles to lift the plates....cause there is a need for that being 3 mm thick and flush with the surroundings...I had them lying around as a left-over from my pre amp so I put them to good use....
The 4 little holes are not for the screws but to give the transformers (5) some air although they are nearly becoming luke-warm...
with your wife e.g.......kudo''s Audio1st
Today starting with the last bits and pieces...spraying all the copper....after sanding it with a machine and grain 60...to give it a brushed appearance.
I use hammerite clear metal varnish spray ....a 5 coat will do to give a bit of depth...every hour a new coating.
For difficult to reach parts I use Zappon Metal Laquer with a brush...2 coats will do...to give it a silky shine like a dim lit tree....
The 12 mm copper wheel-like objects are the handles to lift the plates....cause there is a need for that being 3 mm thick and flush with the surroundings...I had them lying around as a left-over from my pre amp so I put them to good use....
The 4 little holes are not for the screws but to give the transformers (5) some air although they are nearly becoming luke-warm...
Attachments
It's a white led, so let's say 3 V. Than you use Ohm's Law to calculate the dropping resistor.Badge said:
(V pw supply - 3) / I
where I could be a few mA. Remember that in the formula I must be espressed in A, not mA.
Peter used 10kohm taking the pw supply before the IC regulator LM7808 (starting from 12 VAC, let's say 15-16 VDC), but he inteded to dim the led a bit.