i have turned it on - mine is model '31.....
it is working like a charm using L and R output and on board dac..... better than my DVD Pioneer DV-355.... right from the box with original psu and everything.....
it is more clear and more relaxed sounding.....
Peter Daniel - i have to thank you the most for starting this thread....
this baby is only working - i will put it inside a proper box with a proper psu and everything......
thnx again also to everybody else that made a contribution here....
it is working like a charm using L and R output and on board dac..... better than my DVD Pioneer DV-355.... right from the box with original psu and everything.....
it is more clear and more relaxed sounding.....
Peter Daniel - i have to thank you the most for starting this thread....
this baby is only working - i will put it inside a proper box with a proper psu and everything......
thnx again also to everybody else that made a contribution here....
Attachments
sparkle said:
Well done!
I would really recommend getting an external dac. I am borrowing one from a friend at the moment and although its a long way from being the best dac, its a massive improvement from the offering on-board.
Peter supplies a great sounding dac by all accounts
If you think it sounds good now...just wait until all the new capacitors have time to stabilise!
Richard
now i have removed R4 (in the *.pdf) - that inductor on the power supply..... great - the sound opened ....
even better !!!
i know i know.... the soonest i catch some time i will build a dac.... but right now it is sounding better than my dac... it is not burned in - nothing - straitgh from the box..... nice....
i thank you all again....
even better !!!
i know i know.... the soonest i catch some time i will build a dac.... but right now it is sounding better than my dac... it is not burned in - nothing - straitgh from the box..... nice....
i thank you all again....
how is motor speed controlled?
I am planning to move the motors off board using pulleys and a drive belt. the simplest solution would be a 1:1 ratio but i was wondering if i could "downshift" a little by using a smaller pulley on the motor.
would the motor control compensate (is it in a feedback loop) or are the rpm's fixed (preset)?
can the motor handle higher rpm? - how much higher (double?)
the mechanism will add mass, does the stock motor have enough power? - how much more mass?
any related comments are welcome.
i have a nice drive shaft and bearings waiting to be purchased from mcmaster carr as well as some pulleys from msi.
I am planning to move the motors off board using pulleys and a drive belt. the simplest solution would be a 1:1 ratio but i was wondering if i could "downshift" a little by using a smaller pulley on the motor.
would the motor control compensate (is it in a feedback loop) or are the rpm's fixed (preset)?
can the motor handle higher rpm? - how much higher (double?)
the mechanism will add mass, does the stock motor have enough power? - how much more mass?
any related comments are welcome.
i have a nice drive shaft and bearings waiting to be purchased from mcmaster carr as well as some pulleys from msi.
Following your recents clues about the mechanical structure, I made some listening tests this morning. My setup was with 4 standoffs (each a bolt with 2 nuts and 2 washers), green original dampers, stock board, 294-100 dout resistors, power supply as PD's scheme, wooden platform with 4 sorbothane feet (rather an elastic system). As I said in previous posts, I was already comfortable with this shigaclone sound, but something was lacking, especially in the midrange, voices didn't satisfy me.
First I removed the green dampers. A great leap forward. More precise sound, faster, more dynamic, more bass extension. Then I started to reduce points. I should say that between 4 points and 3 points I haven't found any marked difference to justify the move. But, when I removed the nuts and washers of the third bolt and just 2 points remained (in diagonal)..........wow. Very good. The same differences as I described before, but at a really higher level. Voices, male or female, are now as I want. In a short term, a richer, more natural sound. I'd like to try in the next future the stiff solution (granite or metal base and spikes) but this sound is very good for me. Maybe an intermediate step could be still a wooden platform, but of a different wood, more rigid than pine I'm currently using.
CDs I used for this test
Bobby Watson - Appointment in Milano - Red Records - Track 1
Ray Brown & Laurindo Almeida - Moonlight serenade - Bell Records - Track 3
Antonio Forcione & Sabina Sciubba - Meet in London - Naim - Track 6
Mary Black - Mary Black - Grapevine - Track 6
The Ray Brown Trio - Soular energy - Concord Jazz - Track 1
The Notting Hillbillies - presumed having a good time - Warner - Track 3
First I removed the green dampers. A great leap forward. More precise sound, faster, more dynamic, more bass extension. Then I started to reduce points. I should say that between 4 points and 3 points I haven't found any marked difference to justify the move. But, when I removed the nuts and washers of the third bolt and just 2 points remained (in diagonal)..........wow. Very good. The same differences as I described before, but at a really higher level. Voices, male or female, are now as I want. In a short term, a richer, more natural sound. I'd like to try in the next future the stiff solution (granite or metal base and spikes) but this sound is very good for me. Maybe an intermediate step could be still a wooden platform, but of a different wood, more rigid than pine I'm currently using.
CDs I used for this test
Bobby Watson - Appointment in Milano - Red Records - Track 1
Ray Brown & Laurindo Almeida - Moonlight serenade - Bell Records - Track 3
Antonio Forcione & Sabina Sciubba - Meet in London - Naim - Track 6
Mary Black - Mary Black - Grapevine - Track 6
The Ray Brown Trio - Soular energy - Concord Jazz - Track 1
The Notting Hillbillies - presumed having a good time - Warner - Track 3
Re: how is motor speed controlled?
A while ago I have made a quick beltdrive as a try-out...using the cassettewheel and belt (you need 2 boomers)
I got it working ..uhh...a mutilated P. Barber came out .....but as I said loads of error corrections /jitter...
I reckon a lot of work and other materials to make it happen....
For the moment I will leave it alone but I did make a provision for say .......in the future
The photo is not showing the set-up I have made but gives an idea of what I did...
;
okapi said:
A while ago I have made a quick beltdrive as a try-out...using the cassettewheel and belt (you need 2 boomers)
I got it working ..uhh...a mutilated P. Barber came out .....but as I said loads of error corrections /jitter...
I reckon a lot of work and other materials to make it happen....
For the moment I will leave it alone but I did make a provision for say .......in the future
The photo is not showing the set-up I have made but gives an idea of what I did...
;Attachments
After lunch another listening test: dout resistors value.
DAC North Star Design Model 192
Digital cable QED SR75 0.80m RCA.
I started my setup with 294 ohm series resistor and 100 ohm shunt resistor. I got these values from Oneyedk posts #310 and #319 of this thread.
This setup was already good for my system, however I tried these other values (from OneyedK posts)
- 249-110
- 374-95.3
- no resistors
Results
I can divide in two macro groups
- resistors
- no resistors
No resistors sounds worse. Definitely. Less warm, it seems it loses a dimension, from 3 to 2, sounds flat. I got an impression of less sound pressure as well.
Inside resistors group, the best sound in my system is 249-95.3. I tried 249-110 as scheduled and it was the best amongst the three predetermined values (374 the worse by far), but just for curiosity I tried shunt 100 and it was better and then shunt 95.3 and it was better again. More bass extension and more three-dimensionality. Unfortunately I've no resistors to continue the test with different values. However I could say dout resistors value makes difference.
With the best resistors couple 249-95.3 and the mechanics modification of my previous post, my shigaclone now sounds very good, well balanced, with a not usual bass extension, in a word, very musical. It's unexpected what can be achieved with a 50€ boombox.
DAC North Star Design Model 192
Digital cable QED SR75 0.80m RCA.
I started my setup with 294 ohm series resistor and 100 ohm shunt resistor. I got these values from Oneyedk posts #310 and #319 of this thread.
This setup was already good for my system, however I tried these other values (from OneyedK posts)
- 249-110
- 374-95.3
- no resistors
Results
I can divide in two macro groups
- resistors
- no resistors
No resistors sounds worse. Definitely. Less warm, it seems it loses a dimension, from 3 to 2, sounds flat. I got an impression of less sound pressure as well.
Inside resistors group, the best sound in my system is 249-95.3. I tried 249-110 as scheduled and it was the best amongst the three predetermined values (374 the worse by far), but just for curiosity I tried shunt 100 and it was better and then shunt 95.3 and it was better again. More bass extension and more three-dimensionality. Unfortunately I've no resistors to continue the test with different values. However I could say dout resistors value makes difference.
With the best resistors couple 249-95.3 and the mechanics modification of my previous post, my shigaclone now sounds very good, well balanced, with a not usual bass extension, in a word, very musical. It's unexpected what can be achieved with a 50€ boombox.
a question.....
i am using a model 31 - right from the box - no modifications except i removed the psu inductor ... also i am using the original psu and a transformer.....
it seems to me that before i removed the psu inductor, that the transport was much more quit..... now, without the psu inductor it seems to me that it is making more noise while reading and skipping..... is this possible??? .... ..
thnx
i am using a model 31 - right from the box - no modifications except i removed the psu inductor ... also i am using the original psu and a transformer.....
it seems to me that before i removed the psu inductor, that the transport was much more quit..... now, without the psu inductor it seems to me that it is making more noise while reading and skipping..... is this possible??? .... ..
thnx
i have managed to find a copper bussbar - 70cm long and 10 cm wide.... it is 10mm thick....
Guys - how would you suggest to arrange the bottom of the transport ????
to cut this bussbar in three pieces and to put two of them side by side and the third on the top.... and on that one to put the transport....
or to put two of them side by side and than to use the third one over them and on a 90 degrees angle.... or something....?????
suggestions - what would be the best way to use that copper bussbar
Guys - how would you suggest to arrange the bottom of the transport ????
to cut this bussbar in three pieces and to put two of them side by side and the third on the top.... and on that one to put the transport....
or to put two of them side by side and than to use the third one over them and on a 90 degrees angle.... or something....?????
suggestions - what would be the best way to use that copper bussbar
Re: Re: how is motor speed controlled?
The hysteresis of the cd motor powering is altered when you add a belt drive system like that. What you can do is add more flywheel to the CD spinner
Erik van Voorst said:
A while ago I have made a quick beltdrive as a try-out...using the cassettewheel and belt (you need 2 boomers)
I got it working ..uhh...a mutilated P. Barber came out .....but as I said loads of error corrections /jitter...
I reckon a lot of work and other materials to make it happen....
For the moment I will leave it alone but I did make a provision for say .......in the future
The photo is not showing the set-up I have made but gives an idea of what I did...
The hysteresis of the cd motor powering is altered when you add a belt drive system like that. What you can do is add more flywheel to the CD spinner
I opened the motor and I removed everything out of the non powered "pancake" Mabuchi motor (cutting all the stuff loose from the spindle in order to end up with only a puck and platform on a pin) and closed the empty housing carefully again.
On the other hand I must say that my way of mounting later on will probably induce another pleasant tweak......so no present belt-wish ...
On the other hand I must say that my way of mounting later on will probably induce another pleasant tweak......so no present belt-wish ...
