Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

Hi John,

i should be able to make the change tonight.

just to confirm, i should add a 10K series resistor between the LED and the rectifiers.

is the reason for taking the LED power pre regulation to avoid any LED associated noise from getting into the audio signal?

i'm glad i was able to make a helpful post as i have mostly been relying on the generosity of others here on diyaudio - it is nice to be able to return the favor even if it is indirect.

Tim
 
Just been looking in my 'parts box' and found a 2 x 25V 160VA torroidal mains transformer.

I assume I can use one of the 25V secondaries only to power the Shigaclone? If I do this do I do anything with the other unused 25V secondary, or just seal the ends and leave them as is?

Many thanks.

- John
 
lauret said:
I'm kind of wondering how you build your block of copper/bronze. In the first post I saw your creation I presume you got the best results with?

What is it composed of and how does it fit together? (Do you have a drawing?)

The bars have been cut on table saw and smoothed out on belt sander, they are connected with 10-32 screws (two per each corner). The size is approx 7 x 7.5 x 1.25" There is 3/16 copper plate attached on a bottom and it holds the mechanism:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


I had a different frame previously, which quite possibly worked better, but in the end I decided to use the one pictured above, as it was much easier to implement into complete chassis:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.



The finished chassis looks like this:


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


The wires from the transport to display panel run in a channel drilled throug bamboo platform and connect with the adapter I cut out from the original display board, the remote sensor is attached there too. The whole thing is mounted in a back, right behind the transport assembly:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
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Mixed verdict in on RCEZ32

I received my second JVC boombox last night, a model RCEZ32, that it got to me intact and was not stolen off of my doorstep is a miracle in itself.. Despite signature confirmation it was DELIVERED. My thoughtful neighbor rescued it before some roving hudlum could liberate it.

USPS- NOT TO BE TRUSTED!

Anyway on to the germane.. I do not yet have pictures of the board set or mechanism I liberated from the RCEZ32, the mechanism is identical, the boards are not.

The chip set used in the mechanism does not integrate an onboard micro-controller and hence another board is used to control playback functions in the player. The chips are respectively an LA9241, and an LC78629. Spdif output is present and accessible, and looking at the data sheets it seems clear that these chips are in the same basic family of devices used in the RCEZ31.

Substantial reverse engineering is required, however some key areas are fairly similar on the player board, things are slightly physically rearranged however. The display is driven by a separate board that incorporates the uP and many other functions. The display provides more information than the RCEZ31 as it displays both track and time. (Many functions controlled by the uP like power/standby will have to be re-implemented, while others like the analog source selection, cassette play, tuner, and digital volume control can probably be safely ignored.)

I have no idea whether or not the performance ultimately will be as good as with the EZ31 (I suspect it will be, but who knows) so unless you are looking for a challenge I would not buy one of these.

The stock boombox had quite a good level of detail, but with those tiny speakers was more than a little tinny.. :D
 
Re: Mixed verdict in on RCEZ32

kevinkr said:
The chip set used in the mechanism does not integrate an onboard micro-controller and hence another board is used to control playback functions in the player. The chips are respectively an LA9241, and an LC78629.

Well, it's certainly not bad news at all; that unit is closer to Shigaraki than EZ31. Shigaraki also uses separate chipset to handle display functions, as pictured here: http://www.audiostereo.pl/zalaczniki/905391_1.jpg
 
My EZ31B arrived this morning, and I've dismantled the poor old boombox and am surrounded by parts!!! Felt a bit weird taking apart a brand new unit - Mum thought I was nuts haha!

Anyway, have the relevant parts connected up and ready to go - am currently using the stock transformer/PSU board, and the larger PSU/'mother' board until the parts arrive for a dedicated supply. Also makes judging the effects of the new supply vs standard a possibility.

Problem is I hastily snipped off ALL the three wires contained in the terminal block just above the figure-8 power input socket. The two black AC leads go direct to the transformer, then two yellow wires goto the AC+ and AC- points marked on the small PSU board.

When connecting power I'm not getting anything out of the system - no CD turning, no LED on. I think that when a figure 8 lead is plugged in, it pushes up a switch which 'tells' the unit not to use battery power. I ** THINK ** this creates a link between the B+ on the PSU board, and DC+ on same board. I'm fairly certain I need to add a wire link between these two points.

Could someone please comfirm this before I ruin my new mechanism?!? :hot:

Many thanks!

- John
 
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Hi John,
The power switch you describe correctly. On mine if you connect the orange and yellow leads together it will work. (Assuming your power supply is the same as the one used in the RCEZ32.)

Acquiring one of these units has been an unpleasant experience to say the least, my faith in the integrity of our local postal carriers is 0 at this point. My wife thought it was a little strange that I would buy and dismantle a perfectly good boombox, and I had to explain why I need one of these specific models. Guess I was getting a bit too angsty over this, now that I have one I should get "better." ;)

Hi Peter,
I actually meant to mention the Shigaraki had two boards in it, and in fact mentioned that to my friend Nick in an email this morning. It looks viable, just more complex than versions built using the EZ31..

Any details anyone has on the EZ32, schematics in particular would be highly appreciated.
 
Thanks Kevin you put my mind at reast :)

On the UK version it's the red + black wires together to the battery + and DC+ in on the PSU board when the mains leads is out.

With mains lead plugged in it's the yellow and black to B+ and DC+ on the PSU board.

Glad your unit finally arrived. If it makes you feel better I was getting angsty about mine arriving as well and e-mailed the poor staff at Bennetts online 3 times :xeye:

Now the fun (hopefully) begins once I've soldered B+ and DC+ together on that board.

Cheers,

- John
 
It's ALIVVVEEEEE AAAAhahahahahahahaaaaa!

Ahem.

:D

Whew thank gawd for that - once that lead between DC+ and B+ was connected all powered up fine. No pyrotechnics thankfully!

So far it seems pretty good - nice solid bass in particular, quite organic sounding, but a little dull at present. To be expected after only 5mins running in time and no mods as yet! Can't wait to get started on the PSU.

One question, what is the reasoning behind having those two 75-ohm resistors on the digial output? I am currently using mine without these and it appears fine - my DPA PDM One - series 2 had no trouble locking on.

- John


Update: After only 20minutes it's starting to really show potential already. Sound has opened up considerably, and the top end is improving. This looks promising :D
 
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johnm said:
It's ALIVVVEEEEE AAAAhahahahahahahaaaaa!

Ahem.

:D

<snip>

One question, what is the reasoning behind having those two 75-ohm resistors on the digial output? I am currently using mine without these and it appears fine - my DPA PDM One - series 2 had no trouble locking on.

- John


Update: After only 20minutes it's starting to really show potential already. Sound has opened up considerably, and the top end is
improving. This looks promising :D

Hi John,
The reason for those resistors is for level shifting and to match the spif output port to the characteristic impedance of the interconnect cable you are using which is theoretically 75 ohms. I selected values of 243 and 110 ohms for mine which results in a 75 ohm source and should the output voltage in an acceptable range for standard spdif assuming pp swing on the output of the port of around 3.0 - 3.5Vpp - if its higher than this I may need to recalculate the values. (243 ohm from chip connected to 110 resistor which is connected to ground. Spdif out from point between the two resistors - standard voltage divider. Spdif is normally in the range of 1Vpp.)