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Old 6th June 2008, 11:31 AM   #1141
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Location: oslo
Quote:
Originally posted by Zigis
superhkm, PS schematic with 2x12 in post 6.

To me that is the schematics for a 24V CT.

Am I to do this : (?)
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File Type: jpg ps 2 x12v.jpg (15.3 KB, 1424 views)
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Old 6th June 2008, 01:08 PM   #1142
Zigis is offline Zigis  Latvia
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Quote:
Originally posted by superhkm




Am I to do this : (?)

Yes, correct. This is the same, audio1st attached.

Anyway, if you have 8.13 V right now, than it must work, PS is not problem with your reading problem
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Old 6th June 2008, 01:18 PM   #1143
DaveM is offline DaveM  United States
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Note that both positive legs are tied together. With one pair of diodes and not 2 this will produce +12 - 0. If you put the second positive leg through it's own set of diodes it would then make (+12)-0-(-12) or a 24V supply. If you are using only one leg it will work just fine, but you will have more ripple on the input side of the regulator.

Of course, use a meter and make sure that you are only putting out 12 volt before hooking things up. We want to keep that smoke inside.
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Old 6th June 2008, 02:47 PM   #1144
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Quote:
Originally posted by audio1st





Check the ribbon that connects the laser...
Did you add the bridge cable?

Quote:
Originally posted by Zigis
superhkm, PS schematic with 2x12 in post 6.

I have the same problem with reeding 00 and not playing after few modification and lose one small motor fixing screw.
Then I find small screw on thees strong magnets near laser. After removing screw all work.
Check magnets, maybe something metallic is there.
I have the exact same problem with my current unit. I decided to purchase a spare and carefully go through each modification one at a time rather than doing all the capacitors and crystal at once. This will hopefully allow me to track my failure point. Best case scenario will be two working units. Worst case will be at least one working. Will keep everyone posted as time permits.

Regards,
Dan
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Old 6th June 2008, 04:42 PM   #1145
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Location: Foxton, CAMBS..
Quote:
The bridge cable is which cable ?
The bridge cable is the jumper from 5A to 5B on the pdf of mods..

I have tried to show the smd's more clearly with the attached picture. ( Do not make the holes in the heat-sink )
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File Type: jpg jumper.jpg (82.0 KB, 1572 views)
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Old 6th June 2008, 07:31 PM   #1146
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It's possible to know (view) CLEARLY
where connect the LCD backlight and what's voltage ?

ThAnKs !
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Old 6th June 2008, 08:40 PM   #1147
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Quote:
Originally posted by audio1st


The bridge cable is the jumper from 5A to 5B on the pdf of mods..

I have tried to show the smd's more clearly with the attached picture. ( Do not make the holes in the heat-sink )

No I didn't do the bridge cable, but i managed to miss cap no. 3.
Still there on the pcb. Will I have to remove the heatshield to remove the cap ?
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Old 6th June 2008, 10:41 PM   #1148
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Quote:
Originally posted by superhkm

No I didn't do the bridge cable, but i managed to miss cap no. 3.
Still there on the pcb. Will I have to remove the heatshield to remove the cap ?
I'm getting better at removing smd, removed cap3 and did the bridge cable.

The player now seems to work fine. will check spdif signal tomorrow.

thanks audio1st.
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Old 6th June 2008, 10:46 PM   #1149
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaveM
Note that both positive legs are tied together. With one pair of diodes and not 2 this will produce +12 - 0. If you put the second positive leg through it's own set of diodes it would then make (+12)-0-(-12) or a 24V supply. If you are using only one leg it will work just fine, but you will have more ripple on the input side of the regulator.
can someone please draw a schematic of this. I really dont get it.
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Old 7th June 2008, 07:25 AM   #1150
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very interesting project
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