Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story - Page 113 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Source & Line > Digital Source

Digital Source Digital Players and Recorders: CD , SACD , Tape, Memory Card, etc.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 2nd June 2008, 03:50 AM   #1121
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Quote:
Originally posted by brgds



I've found this 10n (100n original) as the most critical of all caps.
I've tried something like 10 various types, including paper, teflon, ero, even mica, and the clear winner in my setup is MultiCap RTX 10n. YMMV.

My input:

I have tried BG-NX 0.1, Silver Mica 0.01, Jupiter Bewax 0.22, Jensen Copper-Foil 0.1, Russian Teflon cap 0.1, Wonder Cap 0.1(NOS)--me and friend agree that the BG-NX and Jensen Copper Foil are both very close in term of tonality and balance and musicality, but we choose the Jensen over BGNX. Silver mica add edge to the sound, but it also add a lot of details, the more we listen we feel stress. Russian teflon cap is similar to the silver mica but to a lesser degree. Wonder cap sound ok. I will compare the original NATCON cap to the Jensen and report back.

We also tried IR Hexfred HFA08TB60 diodes to replace the MUR860, we feel that it add clarity and depth the the soundstage. BTW: we are using D-I non-oversampling DAC (8 piece of TDA1543.) So the Hexfred are here to stay in my transport. Hope this help.....
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd June 2008, 05:38 PM   #1122
diyAudio Member
 
Peter Daniel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Toronto, Canada
Send a message via AIM to Peter Daniel
Quote:
Originally posted by thekop-bkk
.... to replace the MUR860,
Please note that MUR860 have never been suggested to use in this transport, only MSR860 which are slightly different (than MUR)
__________________
www.audiosector.com
“Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd June 2008, 06:46 PM   #1123
brgds is offline brgds  Poland
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Poland
Quote:
Originally posted by thekop-bkk



My input:

I have tried BG-NX 0.1, Silver Mica 0.01, Jupiter Bewax 0.22, Jensen Copper-Foil 0.1, Russian Teflon cap 0.1, Wonder Cap 0.1(NOS)--me and friend agree that the BG-NX and Jensen Copper Foil are both very close in term of tonality and balance and musicality, but we choose the Jensen over BGNX. Silver mica add edge to the sound, but it also add a lot of details, the more we listen we feel stress. Russian teflon cap is similar to the silver mica but to a lesser degree. Wonder cap sound ok. I will compare the original NATCON cap to the Jensen and report back.

You've tried not only various types but various capacities too, which makes also huge difference. My experience is that to get more ultimate and definite results is to use same caps type of different capacities. I've exercised that with ERO 2x47n in parallel, then single 47n, then 2x47n in series, 3x47n in series, 4x47n in series was bullseye, finaly replaced by 10n MultiCap RTX which was even better.
__________________
Andy
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd June 2008, 04:52 PM   #1124
diyAudio Member
 
Algar_emi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Canada, Qc
playermods.pdf file info
This great document list step by step all the transport mods to be done. However, some informations were missing to correlate these informations with the EZ31B service manual CD Circuit schematic. I found the missing informations so you can see on the schematic what was modified:

Parts Replaced:
ID, Schematic Designation, Original Part Value
R1,R2: C945, C964
R3: C942 - 200uF, 16V
R4: L901
R5: C952 - 470uF, 10V

Parts Exchanged:
ID, Schematic Designation, Original Part Value
E1: C939 - 100uF, 10V
E2: C953 - 200uF, 16V
E3: C939 - 2.2uF, 50V
E4: C934 - 10uF, 25V
E5: C916 - 200uF, 16V
E6: C906 - 0.1uF, 50V
E7: X901 - Ceramic Resonator

SMD Parts to remove (PCB other sides)
3. C963
4. C917
Jumper from 5A to 5B: Seems to apply +8V to line going from IC902, pin 49 to IC901, pin 33
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd June 2008, 04:55 PM   #1125
diyAudio Member
 
Algar_emi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Canada, Qc
Here my latest compiled notes file.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf cd flatfish_notes_june 3rd-2008.pdf (15.7 KB, 681 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd June 2008, 05:13 PM   #1126
diyAudio Member
 
Algar_emi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Canada, Qc
Here the side view of the modified PCB. It is rather easy to do.
One thing to take care is when replacing E3,E4 caps, make sure that the new ones to get in the way of the laser head assembly when it slides. Make sure to install these two caps as close to E2 as possible, incline them a little bit is possible.

I used blue tack to fix the new crystal and keep it from vibrating.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg new crystal into blue tack_small.jpg (56.3 KB, 2104 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd June 2008, 08:54 PM   #1127
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Italy
Quote:
Originally posted by Algar_emi


I used blue tack to fix the new crystal and keep it from vibrating.
You use it with or without caps ?
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd June 2008, 09:18 PM   #1128
diyAudio Member
 
audio1st's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Foxton, CAMBS..
Hello Algar_emi,
Update of your parts list;
E3: C929 - 10uF, 25V
and
SMD parts to remove,
2 . C962 and C940..
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th June 2008, 10:02 PM   #1129
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
kevinkr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Boston, Massachusetts
Blog Entries: 6
Talking RCEZ32 Update

Just a couple of small things since I last posted.

I did change to a 50VA (12.6V/4A) power transformer, real NOS as I bought it nearly 30yrs ago brand new and never used it until now..
Guess I knew I would need it for my ShigaClone someday..

It added both mass and a little authority in the bottom end.

I added 7lbs of AL bronze last night to the subchassis and I was surprised at the fact that I could clearly hear the difference. I would umm, say it was even more "weighty," "solid," and "authoritative" giving real mass to sound.. All joking aside the difference was audible and I am totally sold on Peter's mass loading concept, although mine bears little resemblance to other clones here.

Some day I will post pix of my efforts. I'm very happy with the overall performance, and the sound would be hard to beat at many times the price. The Sony does no better on CD, and I actually prefer my dac and the ShigaClone for CD playback which was sort of the point actually.

I have had a lot of fun so far.
__________________
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th June 2008, 10:58 PM   #1130
diyAudio Member
 
Algar_emi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Canada, Qc
Didn't turn on the transport yet to see if it is working with or without crystal caps. I still need to complete the modification on the LCD control PCB. I cut may traces to cut the PCB to the proper size and need to correct all that before I proceed.

Thanks audio1st for the parts list addition.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 02:39 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2