Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

[BoilermakerFan]

OK, newbie question...

I was about to buy a couple of the SF-P101N replacement mechanism assemblies linked a few pages back, but I decided to check mine first.

Well, mine has the 16-pin off the laser and everything appears to be in the same place, but the bottom board on my assembly is the same dimensions as the upper assembly and the motors are soldered directly too it. Are everyone else's EZ-31s the same way and you just desolder the old motors to yank the mechanism off the old board, then remove the small lower PCB from the replacement before soldering it's motors to the old lower board?

They are about $16 delivered, but I don't want to spend $50 on three to have them not work with my transport if I really need them... I might buy one to use as the prototype for for my mounting mock ups though. I would really like to have three though so I have two unopened back-ups for the actual Shigaclone.

Thanks guys. If you need a pic, LMK.

To make it easy on everyone, here's te link to the replacements and note the small lower PCB that brings power to the motors:
http://cgi.ebay.com/SF-P101N-CD-Mec...36332QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

 

[jonners]

BoilermakerFan -

It depends whether you want to replace the laser, the motors, or both. I just wanted to replace the laser mech, so I simply removed the four screws on the new part that attach the motors and their pcb to the main laser assembly. Then I just screwed the new laser mech on to the old board and motors.
Hope this helps.

John

 

[woodturner-fran]

yeah, basically what you are buying are mechanical parts to replace should they fail in the original. Other than buying another RC-EZ31/51, you have no back up for the bottom controller board.

Fran

 

[woodturner-fran]

Somepics with the final PS in place:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

And in this one, just to the right of the first PS cap you can see the pot for adjusting LED brightness:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

I'm a very happy camper with this build - now its allow some time for burn in and try a few different output caps.


Fran

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Thanks John and Fran, That makes sense. I'll order 3 of them so I can use one as my prototype for mounting.

Mine will be probably be going into a surplus NABU chassis with a headphone amp, DAC, and phono stage in the same chassis.

My other thought is to figure out a good way to suspend it from below so I can incorporate it into the panel of my console retrofit. That way you would see it when you lift the lid of the console to access all the controls and TT. It will be a much more complicated build that way, but would really bring my console retrofit over the top. I'd have to have all the control buttons accessible on the top panel too as well a remote mounted iR target on the outside front of the console. I think I will make that PHASE III of the console refurbishment since it will involve having a custom aluminum panel made by FPE or a local source on a CNC waterjet.

- BMF

 

[woodturner-fran]

woohoo, got the remote working today . Would have been a lot simpler if I could remember either a) how to program it, or b) where the instruction book was! Anyway, I got it fairly easily in the end and it works really well. The receiver is just hanging out of the front of the case so I do need to position it somehow.



I am finding that the big 225VA transformer I fitted gets just barely lukewarm (powered on all the time) and that the heatsink on the LM7808 which is a bit puny is even cooler. So I'm happy enough with the heat situation. I'm not sure that theres much difference in sonics between using this PS (peters board, MSR860 and 2 x blackgate 100uF)and the older one with the JVC trasnformer. But then it had shottkys and panasonic FM/Blackgate so it wasn;t completely rubbish. All I can say is that it really sounds good with Peters premium NOS DAC. It sounds good with the buffalo too, but then thats a different flavour sound, equally good in its own right. The NOS does seem to bring the vocals out a bit though.


Fran

 

[ccschua]

Re: RCEZ32 Clone Update

Happy to report that removing the ferrite on the ac power leads to the stock transformer effected a pretty big improvement. The mechanical sound quality I complained about in my last post is mostly gone.

I tried several other EI transformers and noted no particular sonic advantage while listening so I stuck the stock transformer back in my transport. It fits and some of the bigger ones really do not.

Finally I added a couple of small 33uF/63V Nichicon VZ series caps at the output of the 8V supply. I noted some improvement in the smoothness of the highs, and a slight improvement in overall imaging. I did not use BG caps in my supplies so I cannot indicate whether or not this would result in an improvement or not.

I am now also able to use the remote control.

For whatever reason this thing certainly is revealing, far better in some respects perhaps than any cd player I have owned to this point. I am sometimes amazed at what it does for multi-track vocals, it resolves rather well.

allow me to bring out the old post.

for a beginner and to do a minimum mod [budget concern], can I use back the stock transformer and then just upgrade the capacitor as in the OKAPI pdf.

rgds.

 

[kevinkr]

You can use the stock transformer, but in the long run try to make provisions for the fitting of a larger transformer. I am now using a 50Va transformer and a hand built supply using a Rohm 7808 regulator, black gate electrolytics and a bunch of other stuff to make it all play nicely together.. (It's based on RC-EZ32 which is quite different in details from the '31, but uses the same chipset family.)

 

[woodturner-fran]

I'm not sure that theres much difference in sonics between using this PS (peters board, MSR860 and 2 x blackgate 100uF)and the older one with the JVC trasnformer. But then it had shottkys and panasonic FM/Blackgate so it wasn;t completely rubbish.

ccschua: see my post above. No major gains in giong to a bigger transformer I think, but definitely do make a new PS board with good caps, diodes and the 7808. Do leave space for a bigger one though down the line.

Fran

 

[ccschua]

I have a problem with crystal. The 16.9c77 osc I cant get locally. Buying from digikey is a killer due to shipping cost (60 usd ship to me).

can i use 16.0 MHz ?

http://my.farnell.com/1078830/passives/product.us0?sku=citizen-america-csa309-16-000mabj-ub

As for the power supply, I plan to buy a transformer , EI or toroid with 2x12 V with CT. I wonder if the peter PCB still available ?

 

[woodturner-fran]

I think most around here seem to prefer the EI type of transformer.

You need the exact crystal. Peter is very helpful and he may have boards and some of the harder to find parts - I know he sent me the boards, MSR860 diodes and crystals etc at low cost.

Fran

 

[Magura456]

Hi,

This is a great topic!
I've got a rc-ez51!
It's playing complete standard for almost 24 hours.
The sound is more open, but stil not that perfect.
My standard player is an arcam cd23t.
Now i'm searching for some parts.
For the ps some black gate fk 1000uf/50, en N serie 1000uf/50v,
Schottky diodes msr860,lm7808 etc.
The little bg caps have i already.
Has somebody some addresses for this parts?
Especially the fk and N bg 1000uf/50V caps.

Thanks guys,

Here a picture of the 51.

 

[kevinkr]

Hi,

This is a great topic!
I've got a rc-ez51!
It's playing complete standard for almost 24 hours.
The sound is more open, but stil not that perfect.
My standard player is an arcam cd23t.
Now i'm searching for some parts.
For the ps some black gate fk 1000uf/50, en N serie 1000uf/50v,
Schottky diodes msr860,lm7808 etc.
The little bg caps have i already.
Has somebody some addresses for this parts?
Especially the fk and N bg 1000uf/50V caps.

Thanks guys,

Here a picture of the 51.

Michael Percy or Parts Connexion...

 

[jameshillj]

Instead of the MSR860, try BYV27 (2 Amp) or the BYW29 (8 Amp)

 

[Magura456]

Michael Percy or Parts Connexion...

Thanx, i'll try Michael Percy first.

 

[m.massimo]

Instead of the MSR860, try BYV27 (2 Amp) or the BYW29 (8 Amp)

Is it an improvement?

 

[jameshillj]

Oh dear, is it an improvement?
You should ask Jacco, he's pretty clued up about diodes!

In my opinion ... yes, it is.
Depending on the project budget, when you compromise on supplies, you lower the best maximum result, assuming other areas aren't neglected.
So, a top quality trannie, good caps, best wire, u/fast diodes, seperate supply case, etc.
However, it is often better to just get the best available bits and put it all together 'cos it's a certainty that you'll be pulling it apart again and so can update later!

All the best ... Jh

 

[ccschua]

Can someone help me please with the citizen crystal 16.9C77. I need the crystal to complete the clock.

also the pcb for power supply. that would be helpful.

 

[m.massimo]

Thank James.
My question was just a question from a person. I don't know this matter in depth and want to learn.

 

[Peter Daniel]

Is it an improvement?

No, it's not: it's just a different way of presenting things.

I yet to find the diodes that improve upon MSR/MUR type in certain applications.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1468036#post1468036