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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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HELP!HELP!!HELP!!!
I recently acquired a decent condition CD 303 and Like Francesco, I have the same problem . It hums for a while right after turned on. However it works just fine when it is kept on for a while. I think I timed it to be about 10 minutes. Anyone knows anything about how I might be able to fix it? Francesco said the door switch contacts were bad. I am not sure how that applies to mine. Any help would deeply be appreciated. Thanks, |
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#2 |
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Magneto the Gravity Man
diyAudio Member
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[You should have started a new thread.]
Replace the power supply capacitors (only) as a first start. Andy |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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I am kind of new to this. Which cap would be in the PSU? Please help. Thanks,
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#4 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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Thread split.
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#5 | |
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Magneto the Gravity Man
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
[Thanks Mods] The power supply is quite easily accessible when you start to dismantle the CD303 - on a board with the heatsink attached. The main caps. are easily identifiable. Andy Unfortunately, I do not have the diagram to be able to assist further at the moment with specific questions. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Hampshire
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Quote:
This one includes details of how to obtain the schematics help!i need a manual of philips cd303! I have a slightly later vintage CD104. On that model and it's derivatives , problems that fix themselves after a warm up period (like yours) are usually attributable to the through board links Philips used in their board construction at that time (See "griplets") . However I'm reliably informed that the CD100 generation players did not use this flawed method of construction. I'm not sure about the CD303. Anyone care to confirm if CD303 did not use the through board rivets /griplets ? |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Adelaide
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I can answer that
The CD 303 is the variant of the CD300 with a time display. It is the same generation as the CD200 and C202, and in fact shares the same circuit boards. There are NO griplets in these players, but there are lots of 22 and 33uf caps to replace There are further variants on these two models, in that the decoder board may be either a 'sophi' board (Sony-Philips) or a full Philips chipset based on the SAA7020. All use the great TDA1450 DAC (x2) I agree, first look at the power supply board, its the separate board with the large heat sinks at the back of the player. Often the smaller value caps are bad (22, 33, 330uf) Good luck Philippe
__________________
"Everything else is gaslight" |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: D-55629 Schwarzerden
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This thread could be also of interest in this case:
cx7933,cx7934,cx7935,saa7030 with tda1540 |
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