HELP!HELP!!HELP!!!
I recently acquired a decent condition CD 303 and Like Francesco, I have the same problem . It hums for a while right after turned on. However it works just fine when it is kept on for a while. I think I timed it to be about 10 minutes.
Anyone knows anything about how I might be able to fix it? Francesco said the door switch contacts were bad. I am not sure how that applies to mine. Any help would deeply be appreciated.
Thanks,
I recently acquired a decent condition CD 303 and Like Francesco, I have the same problem . It hums for a while right after turned on. However it works just fine when it is kept on for a while. I think I timed it to be about 10 minutes.
Anyone knows anything about how I might be able to fix it? Francesco said the door switch contacts were bad. I am not sure how that applies to mine. Any help would deeply be appreciated.
Thanks,
Re: Philips CD-303
[Thanks Mods]
The power supply is quite easily accessible when you start to dismantle the CD303 - on a board with the heatsink attached.
The main caps. are easily identifiable.
Andy
Unfortunately, I do not have the diagram to be able to assist further at the moment with specific questions.
tech_freak said:
[Thanks Mods]
The power supply is quite easily accessible when you start to dismantle the CD303 - on a board with the heatsink attached.
The main caps. are easily identifiable.
Andy
Unfortunately, I do not have the diagram to be able to assist further at the moment with specific questions.
Re: Philips CD-303
If you search the forum for CD303 there are quite a few threads relating to this player.
This one includes details of how to obtain the schematics
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=74153&highlight=CD303
I have a slightly later vintage CD104. On that model and it's derivatives , problems that fix themselves after a warm up period (like yours) are usually attributable to the through board links Philips used in their board construction at that time (See "griplets") . However I'm reliably informed that the CD100 generation players did not use this flawed method of construction. I'm not sure about the CD303. Anyone care to confirm if CD303 did not use the through board rivets /griplets ?
tech_freak said:
If you search the forum for CD303 there are quite a few threads relating to this player.
This one includes details of how to obtain the schematics
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=74153&highlight=CD303
I have a slightly later vintage CD104. On that model and it's derivatives , problems that fix themselves after a warm up period (like yours) are usually attributable to the through board links Philips used in their board construction at that time (See "griplets") . However I'm reliably informed that the CD100 generation players did not use this flawed method of construction. I'm not sure about the CD303. Anyone care to confirm if CD303 did not use the through board rivets /griplets ?
I can answer that 
The CD 303 is the variant of the CD300 with a time display.
It is the same generation as the CD200 and C202, and in fact shares the same circuit boards.
There are NO griplets in these players, but there are lots of 22 and 33uf caps to replace
There are further variants on these two models, in that the decoder board may be either a 'sophi' board (Sony-Philips) or a full Philips chipset based on the SAA7020.
All use the great TDA1450 DAC (x2)
I agree, first look at the power supply board, its the separate board with the large heat sinks at the back of the player. Often the smaller value caps are bad (22, 33, 330uf)
Good luck
Philippe
The CD 303 is the variant of the CD300 with a time display.
It is the same generation as the CD200 and C202, and in fact shares the same circuit boards.
There are NO griplets in these players, but there are lots of 22 and 33uf caps to replace
There are further variants on these two models, in that the decoder board may be either a 'sophi' board (Sony-Philips) or a full Philips chipset based on the SAA7020.
All use the great TDA1450 DAC (x2)
I agree, first look at the power supply board, its the separate board with the large heat sinks at the back of the player. Often the smaller value caps are bad (22, 33, 330uf)
Good luck
Philippe
This thread could be also of interest in this case:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40682
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40682
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