After looking over the manual data, I am still unclear where to measure the RF signal. Is there a test point? Where do I look?
I purchased a KSS213C just in case.
The gear is now alternate PN: M02646000A Gear 2-step VRDS-9/ VRDS-7
Available from
Teac America Inc.
7733 Telegraph Rd
Montebello, Ca. 90640 No Ph. on the invoice ??
I purchased a KSS213C just in case.
The gear is now alternate PN: M02646000A Gear 2-step VRDS-9/ VRDS-7
Available from
Teac America Inc.
7733 Telegraph Rd
Montebello, Ca. 90640 No Ph. on the invoice ??
Last edited:
RF signal, two-step gears
Hi!
Can you tell me what is the first IC, the RF amplifier, which receives the cabling from the KSS pick-up?
Tried to find a service manual for your KRELL, and so far no result.
With regards to the gears, please find enclosed the numbers and cropped images for them. I know they are supplied by TEAC America, the problem is that TEAC does not agree to ship outside the U.S.
I once bought a pair, two years ago, and a friend ordered the parts for me, then sent me the package to Bulgaria after receiving it in Reno. So, a complicated situation here.
I am not in a hurry to buy second set, just would like to have one at hand, if something happens with the transport.
Best regards,
Hi!
Can you tell me what is the first IC, the RF amplifier, which receives the cabling from the KSS pick-up?
Tried to find a service manual for your KRELL, and so far no result.
With regards to the gears, please find enclosed the numbers and cropped images for them. I know they are supplied by TEAC America, the problem is that TEAC does not agree to ship outside the U.S.
I once bought a pair, two years ago, and a friend ordered the parts for me, then sent me the package to Bulgaria after receiving it in Reno. So, a complicated situation here.
I am not in a hurry to buy second set, just would like to have one at hand, if something happens with the transport.
Best regards,
Attachments
Thanks rad. Thanks also to anatech and mooly. What a resource in this matter. I guess I was in denial about the need to solder a test point on the pickup unit. I have spent too much time fiddling with it hoping for a miracle. It appears the mechanism must be dis-assembled to get to such point, as well as to perform an optical head replacement. Am I missing something..
All the test points in the Krell player seem to be power supply related.
I measured 65 uW off the LED with the platter removed. Seems weak? I used a Coherent Laser Check. Still looking to see if the spec includes this value for nominal.
All the test points in the Krell player seem to be power supply related.
I measured 65 uW off the LED with the platter removed. Seems weak? I used a Coherent Laser Check. Still looking to see if the spec includes this value for nominal.
Laser diode ouput
Hi!
Now, if you have measured 65 micro-watts optical output, then the KSS-213 is definitely for the garbage bin.
The rated power of the Sony SLD104 laser diode is 5mW, with operational level of around 3mW.
Please check the datasheet enclosed.
Yes, you will have to take measures with the player plugged in and switched on, but given your info just replace the KSS first, and then do the adjustments, if any is necessary.
Regards,
Hi!
Now, if you have measured 65 micro-watts optical output, then the KSS-213 is definitely for the garbage bin.
The rated power of the Sony SLD104 laser diode is 5mW, with operational level of around 3mW.
Please check the datasheet enclosed.
Yes, you will have to take measures with the player plugged in and switched on, but given your info just replace the KSS first, and then do the adjustments, if any is necessary.
Regards,
I soldered 30g kinar wire to pin 13, 15 and 9 for ground. At first nothing worked and after I disconnected the scope, I noticed the disk reading. !!! I forgot to float the scope ground. oops Maybe I shocked it.. or got lucky. It is playing, but seems to skip more as the track # increases. Now If I can just get a look at the signals before the optical swap. I am getting - 2.9 V p on pins 13&15 at 60 Hz. I wouldn't mind a little practice before the swap. The new KSS213C arrived today. Shall I just instal it and not worry about the signals?
KSS-213
Hello again!
Whatever practice you do it is a good thing.
Since you already have the new pick-up, do the swap and enjoy the music.
I don't think you will be needing to perform any additional adjustments after replacing, although an RF check won't hurt.
Please give me the exact chipset on your player: RF amplifier IC, Signal-processing IC, Servo IC, Digital Filter. This way I can tell you where exactly to take the RF from.
Best regards,
Hello again!
Whatever practice you do it is a good thing.
Since you already have the new pick-up, do the swap and enjoy the music.
I don't think you will be needing to perform any additional adjustments after replacing, although an RF check won't hurt.
Please give me the exact chipset on your player: RF amplifier IC, Signal-processing IC, Servo IC, Digital Filter. This way I can tell you where exactly to take the RF from.
Best regards,
KSS-213 spindle not spinning
Hello!
On the KSS-213 there is a solder bid which has to be removed, otherwise the player won't start at all, since this solder bid grounds the laser diode.
Please check this
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/237880-how-easy-install-kss-213c-mechanism.html
There is a PDF there, download it, and have a look at the pictures.
Will check the ICs, and will let you know where to hook up in order to see the RF
Regards,
Hello!
On the KSS-213 there is a solder bid which has to be removed, otherwise the player won't start at all, since this solder bid grounds the laser diode.
Please check this
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/237880-how-easy-install-kss-213c-mechanism.html
There is a PDF there, download it, and have a look at the pictures.
Will check the ICs, and will let you know where to hook up in order to see the RF
Regards,
RF testing
Hello!
Do not leave the wire soldered there, as it might bring interference in the signal path.
Better option is to trace where pin 26 is connected, and take measurements from there.
Of course it will work, that is its purpose.
The question is, does it play music, apart from working?
Hello!
Do not leave the wire soldered there, as it might bring interference in the signal path.
Better option is to trace where pin 26 is connected, and take measurements from there.
Of course it will work, that is its purpose.
The question is, does it play music, apart from working?
Some disks play ok. I have listened to it last night. I tried one that did not read and just spun for several minutes until I powered the unit off and removed the disk. It appears the LED assembly did not return to park so the sledge would not open. More testing to follow, but some trouble could be the 8" wire hanging off the unit as an antenna with RF on it. Do you think any adjustment to the one trim pot be required?
TEAC VRDS gear wheel
Hi all, these mechanisms have been the bane of my life, however in now find,the TEAC gearwheel 5801571100 is available on eBay under various numbers for various machine that use this mech, but the shop to look at is "Classic Audio Service" in Germany. eBay item number 400422091846 €26 plus p&p.
I have just ordered 3
John
Hi all, these mechanisms have been the bane of my life, however in now find,the TEAC gearwheel 5801571100 is available on eBay under various numbers for various machine that use this mech, but the shop to look at is "Classic Audio Service" in Germany. eBay item number 400422091846 €26 plus p&p.
I have just ordered 3
John
Misbehaving KAV300
I had to move on the other projects for now. When I have some more time to kill I will adjust the pot of the KSS 213 and hope for the best. I did not get a signal that matched any shown using 3 different scopes. Must be the ground. How would you ground to the pickup without adding test wires etc.. Then of course the unit has to move with the scope attached. 
The Krell has no adjustments and only TPs on the power supply pcb. Could any be signal points I should use?
I had to move on the other projects for now. When I have some more time to kill I will adjust the pot of the KSS 213 and hope for the best. I did not get a signal that matched any shown using 3 different scopes.
Must be the ground. How would you ground to the pickup without adding test wires etc.. Then of course the unit has to move with the scope attached. The Krell has no adjustments and only TPs on the power supply pcb. Could any be signal points I should use?Hello T1 gear victims.
Getting the thread back to Teac T1 broken gears ... my T1 has just shredded it's 2 step gear.
Ordered part from Germany so fingers crossed that it arrives next week.
Thanks to the previous posts on problem ... I've got the mechanism out of the unit and removed loading tray which was a 4 handed job.
Only problem .. is that my 'helper' decided to turn the black loading tray gear wheel whilst I was getting my camera to photo position of gear after carefully removing tray.
So obviously I have no idea of it's correct position.
There is a small hole in the gear which I assume is for setting the timing position.
Any ideas if that's what it's for.
I recall years ago setting camshaft timing marks on quad cam Cosworth engine so camshafts properly positioned before fitting chain .... as trial and error method would have been potentially disasterous!
I assume that similar for tray gear as Teac surely don't have a "guess, hope & pray" assembly line procedure.
If it is trial & error set up then it's "50 lashes and a keel hauling" for the 'helper'.
Hoping that someone can point me in the right direction so that he's spared that fate!
david
Getting the thread back to Teac T1 broken gears ... my T1 has just shredded it's 2 step gear.
Ordered part from Germany so fingers crossed that it arrives next week.
Thanks to the previous posts on problem ... I've got the mechanism out of the unit and removed loading tray which was a 4 handed job.
Only problem .. is that my 'helper' decided to turn the black loading tray gear wheel whilst I was getting my camera to photo position of gear after carefully removing tray.
So obviously I have no idea of it's correct position.
There is a small hole in the gear which I assume is for setting the timing position.
Any ideas if that's what it's for.
I recall years ago setting camshaft timing marks on quad cam Cosworth engine so camshafts properly positioned before fitting chain .... as trial and error method would have been potentially disasterous!
I assume that similar for tray gear as Teac surely don't have a "guess, hope & pray" assembly line procedure.
If it is trial & error set up then it's "50 lashes and a keel hauling" for the 'helper'.
Hoping that someone can point me in the right direction so that he's spared that fate!
david
T1 Door - Same problem nearly!
I have not used my T1 for +/- 6mnths and the drawer won't open either manual or remote. 'Open' flashes for a while and motor starts up then they give up the ghost and stop.
I have opened the T1 and removed the VRDS platter so I can see the gears which appear to be ok...! Unlike some posters on this thread I have not been able (or brave enough) to try forcing the drawer manually.
ANY IDEAS PLEASE....?
I have not used my T1 for +/- 6mnths and the drawer won't open either manual or remote. 'Open' flashes for a while and motor starts up then they give up the ghost and stop.
I have opened the T1 and removed the VRDS platter so I can see the gears which appear to be ok...! Unlike some posters on this thread I have not been able (or brave enough) to try forcing the drawer manually.
ANY IDEAS PLEASE....?