TEAC VRDS CD T1 gear broken

[Centre5]

TEAC Australia is apparently talking about ordering the gears from japan, but knowing the way they price new gear I reckon I'd be paying more than $22 to buy from their local spares outlets anyway.



Yes, TEAC is talking about it ....but no longer.

I was assured by TEAC Australia that the part was *now* avaialble. The email I received from them today (2 months after ordering) said that the TEAC Japan storeman made a mistake and the part is not available. I will see how I go getting a refund as I paid my $$$ when they assured me it was available.

I will try Signals UK. I am jinxed......

[spzzzzkt]

Not jinxed... just dealing with the train wreck that is teac australia.

http://www.theage.com.au/news/Breaki...862466093.html

http://www.itnews.com.au/News/71247,...ishonesty.aspx

http://www.asic.gov.au/asic/asic.nsf...d?openDocument

http://www.smarthouse.com.au/TVs_And...ustry/L9G5V9R5

http://www.theaustralian.news.com.au...43-643,00.html

Sourcing spares for 10 Y.O. products is the least of their concerns...

[Centre5]

All's well that ends well. Charles Hyde eventually agreed to ship the step gear and shortly after that John Onafaro from TEAC Western Australia managed to source factory parts. Music is back!

ps I am in the ACT; don't know why John was the only TEAC person to take an interest

[v2graeme]

I picked up my cog when I went back to the UK for the door transport and that now works but found that the middle coge to drive the laser pick up has now crumbled.

Would anyone know which cog I should now order ? there appears to be a 4 pound or 13 pound cog .... any suggestions gratefully received.

Graeme

[Buscemi]

Hi, I've been reading this thread with interest. My autistic son recently removed a CD from our Copland CDA 288 (same mechanism as Teac T1 and VRDS 7) and then promptly walked into the draw. The draw continued to work for a while but it was jerky in its movement and make a loud ticking noise. Now, however, it has stopped opening and closing.

I believe this to be a gear problem but I'd be grateful if someone who has replaced the gear and fixed their machine could tell me whether their symptoms were similar to mine.

I'm tempted to buy all the parts from the Charles Hyde website and then attempt the fix. Is it straightforward? Do you have to remove the whole transport mechanism to effect the repair. Any pointers would be gratefully received.

[spzzzzkt]

sounds very much like what happened when my draw gear died. very jerky movement, and then as teeth stripped the draw stopped working.

there is a bit of pull apart involved but it's not too bad. the manual helps somewhat but you still have to attempt to make sense of what it shows

I forgot to take pics of the strip down... this is after the gear has been replaced.

[spzzzzkt]

I found I needed to remove the front panel to be able to access the screw which retained a bracket covering the draw gear.

[spzzzzkt]

I can't exactly remember the significance of this one - but I recall the wire near the gold screw needed to be unclipped to release the mechanism. Maybe someone who has done this more recently/often can expand?

[Buscemi]

Thanks for the response spzzzzkt.

Fortunately (or unfortunately depending on which way you look at it) I've never had to repair a CD player before but I have built kit power amps and pre amps and a DAC so I should be okay with some guidance.

Could I just ask how you started (if you could give me a vague outline of what you / what parts you removed that would be most helpful)? Did you just remove the tray out of the front of the machine or did you remove the whole mechanism? What was the 'pull apart' you mention? Also, did you replace other parts such as the belt? I feel tempted to buy all the relevant parts mentioned alongside the 2 step gear and replace those while the unit is stripped down.

Sorry, so many questions!

Thanks in advance,

Mike

[spzzzzkt]

My strategy was to leave as much as possible in place. I wouldn't recommend trying to remove the whole mechanism.

from memory, it was a matter of removing the bridge which takes with it the VRDS disc. I didn't disconnect the motor wiring, just moved to one side. There are clips on both sides, the wire clip in the pic, and another clip on the other side release the draw. Once you get that out, you should have access to the gear mechanisms. I had to pull the front panel to access the retain screw for the bracket above the gears.

I only replaced the gear, mainly because of difficulties obtaining parts from the UK. I checked the rubber belt when I stripped my T1 down and it seemed to be in fairly good condition.

Not sure how similar the copland is to the T1/VRDS7... from memory the chassis looks very close?

This is the best view of the VRDS mechanism in the T1 manual: