DIYPARADISE CD63 based "music centre" - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 20th January 2008, 08:30 AM   #11
frammis is offline frammis  United States
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Hi Dublin,

That's a beautiful piece of work! I like it.

Thought I might mention that the Tripath amp should have at least a small heat sink to keep it running reliably. I'm not sure which amp you are using (maybe 2021 from the look of it?), but it's always more reliable to keep it cooler, especially if the box gets closed and you run it at high volume on a hot summer day (you have those in the UK, don't you? Global warming & all)javascript:smilie('').
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Old 22nd January 2008, 11:28 PM   #12
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Hi philpoole

The chassis is made by sticking sheets of ply together (laminating). Providing that here is a join where the drawer needs to be, it is quite simple to get right with a router. You simply take a slice out of the bottom of one sheet, and the top of the other. After the glueing, the sides of the cuts can be filed by hand so that they line up nicely.

I am sorry that I did not take photos of this laminating process in order to demonstrate it better. I am just about to do some more for the speakers. So I will document that.

I am aware that the black plastic front of the CD drawer clicks off. It gives the unit an undesirable 80's feel. I could spray it matt silver very simply, but then the On/Off swith would be the only black component left. What do you think? I had thought of making a front out of aluminium, but had decided that it would be hard to achieve a tidy result.
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Old 24th January 2008, 11:08 AM   #13
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Routers are great aren't they?
I conveniently convinced my wife that I needed to get one to do the kitchen worktops, while plotting to use it to flush and bevel edges of DAC enclosures and (one day) speaker cabinets .
Maybe I should consider doing this to my CD940 one day? It looks very good.

wrt the drawer front, could you not veneer it or something to match the wooden enclosure? Or better still, a wooden front?

I like wooden enclosures. They're very heavy and don't ring at all. Excellent job!

Cheers,
Phil
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Old 24th January 2008, 11:29 AM   #14
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Quote:
wrt the drawer front, could you not veneer it or something to match the wooden enclosure? Or better still, a wooden front?
I will give it a go...
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Old 25th January 2008, 04:38 PM   #15
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Frammis

The designer of the Charlize amp states that you do not need a heat sink. The chip is a Tripath TA2020 See: http://diyparadise.com/charlize.html

Even with global warming, a hot summer day in the UK is a sadly rare event.
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Old 28th January 2008, 03:52 AM   #16
frammis is offline frammis  United States
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Hi dublin,

No doubt you can get away without a heat sink if the ambient is cool enough and the speakers are 8 Ohms. But it's always a good idea to keep your IC's cool even so. For every 10 degree rise, you cut the expected lifetime in half. For the cost of a little piece of metal, why not? Especially since they're not making 2020's any more.

FYI, it is possible to overheat these amps if you drive 4 Ohm speakers at high volumes. See the TA2020 datasheet for details. (http://www.kafka.elektroda.eu/pdf/tripath/TA2020.pdf).
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Old 28th January 2008, 03:52 AM   #17
ims is offline ims  Indonesia
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Hi dublin,

I like your design. I am also use monica and rbroer ss iv too. Wooden chassis is fine and want to try to use it too. But have you ever consider to use marble as your chassis? I have try to rehousing my cdp and the sound better than before.

As its characteristics marble could absorp the heat easily and it heavy too. The mechanic vibration maybe less important than electronic jitter source but heavy housing could absorb mechanic virbation and give better performance. IMHO.
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Old 28th January 2008, 09:05 AM   #18
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OK Frammis, I will add a heatsink. Better safe than sorry.

ims: I did not look into using marble for many reasons, largely simplicity. I should think that the main advantage of marble is that it is heavy, and the extra mass reduces mechanical movement.

My chassis is fairly heavy too. About 15kg inc the glass. I have placed it upon Sorbothane Hemispheres to reduce vibrations further. This works very well.

The appeal of using plywood laminated in this way is that the chassis appears to be made from one piece of plywood as the joins are invisible and blend into the plywood layers.

I will post some photos of how this is done when I complete my matching speakers..
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Old 11th February 2008, 03:06 PM   #19
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Hi Dublin78!

Congratulations on your design!
Truly Great Work!!

I'm looking forward to your follow up posts and pictures... kindly share us with your listening experience

Kind regards,


--------------
PS: Have you consider to try out Monica 3 in your 'DIYParadise' music centre?
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Old 20th February 2008, 03:03 PM   #20
rshuck is offline rshuck  United Kingdom
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Dublin78

First, I want to commend you on how awesome that looks. You have done almost exactly what I am preparing to do, and your success gives me some hope that I will be able to accomplish this.

My suggestions:

1. Your signal paths seem fairly long. I understand in this case that some length is required, but you could easily mount your attenuator and switches further back in the chassis with extension rods and keep that length to a minimum.

2. The knobs - This is the part of my project that is going to drive me nuts. I don't like to be able to see any space behind the knob and in front of the case... I would prefer to see them sunk into the front of the chassis a bit. I am currently using black matte AudioNote knobs on my charlize amp, and I am trying to design a multi-layer front panel from plexiglass to inset the knobs just a bit.


Other than that, I agree with the coment by philpoole to replace the black plastic cd tray with a wooden one... but maintaining the look you got with the rest of the casing may be a bit tough. I personally would go with a big fat piece of brushed aluminum in place of it... something to the order of 6 to 7mm thick. I think the contrast would be nice, and it would match the knobs you've chosen.
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