Rejuvenating+moding Grundig CD-9000

[Bassivus]

A few words before questions,

I have recently bought beautiful old Grundig FineArts series CD player CD-9000. It sounds very, very good. It's based on TDA1541A-sometimes non A. I have got non A version but who cares it still sounds GREAT. Mechanism it uses is CDM2/29 not CDM4/11, different from what it says on the popular lists like this: http://www.zerogain.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10965
I don't know, maybe my player was made early in the series? I can not find the schematics. You can find some interesting mods here: Lampizator
Mister Lampizator has announced soon revealing of his NOS mod. Hurry up mister lampizator!
My player has difficulties reading discs straight after its turned on, but after few minutes it works fine. I have read somewhere that it is often the problem of depleted axial 33uF electrolyte on servo board with CDM2/29. If it's up to laser, I will try to find some "organ donor"CDP or fit/adopt new cartridge from 4/19 which is supposed to be a match as once Guido stated.

I plan to:
1. re cap the whole player, specialy TDA decoupling SMD ceramics
2. change diodes
3. change OPAMPs - instal better chasis RCAs
4. change power inlet, add mains filter,better power cable
5. If I learn how-try NOS mod
6. clock it
7. do some damping to chasis

[Bassivus]

I have a dilemma if I'm choosing the right diodes.

There are 8 standard 1N4002 diodes on the main power board that I plan to replace with BAT49 Schottkys. I believe its all right.
On the DAC board there are 4 diodes(see photo) that I guess are the same standard rectifiers family but different make -which makes me suspicious. Why would they put the same but different diodes. I can read 1N 02 T. They are snubbered with SMD ceramics underneath the board. If I'm right and those are just another standard 1Nxxx diodes, would it be OK to use BYV26 or would the 11DQ10 be better here?

[Bassivus]

I have decided to do the TDA1541 14cap decoupling with the BG nx 0,1/50 caps. They are still available and small enough...
The idea is to drill the board on the GND tracks (black spots on the photo), solder the leads on both upper GND plane and track, and place the caps in up-down configuration. I would probably install the socket for TDA so I will be able to solder other cap leg directly to the pins. Of course I would remove the SMD ceramic caps.
I have done lots of readings but I am still not sure if I'm wrong. Main concern is could I disturb GND coexistence by connecting them this way!?

P.S. Ignore the sticker on the board, its already removed

[Sir_John]

I'm curious about the modification process...how's it going on, and what are the results?

BTW, greetings from Belgrade

[Bassivus]

Hello!

I have done almost all of the planned and even some more... I was lazy to post my progress...
Here are some photos of the job done so far:

[Bassivus]

Rubycon ZL, Panasonic, Sanyo OS-CON

[Bassivus]

IEC power inlet and some filtering

[Bassivus]

BIT decoupling...

[Bassivus]

NOS socket for SAA7220 and TDA1541 socket with direct -15 to analog gnd decoupling

[Bassivus]

BIG Mundorf caps