A few words before questions,
I have recently bought beautiful old Grundig FineArts series CD player CD-9000. It sounds very, very good. It's based on TDA1541A-sometimes non A. I have got non A version but who cares it still sounds GREAT. Mechanism it uses is CDM2/29 not CDM4/11, different from what it says on the popular lists like this: http://www.zerogain.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10965
I don't know, maybe my player was made early in the series? I can not find the schematics. You can find some interesting mods here: Lampizator
Mister Lampizator has announced soon revealing of his NOS mod. Hurry up mister lampizator!
My player has difficulties reading discs straight after its turned on, but after few minutes it works fine. I have read somewhere that it is often the problem of depleted axial 33uF electrolyte on servo board with CDM2/29. If it's up to laser, I will try to find some "organ donor"CDP or fit/adopt new cartridge from 4/19 which is supposed to be a match as once Guido stated.
I plan to:
1. re cap the whole player, specialy TDA decoupling SMD ceramics
2. change diodes
3. change OPAMPs - instal better chasis RCAs
4. change power inlet, add mains filter,better power cable
5. If I learn how-try NOS mod
6. clock it
7. do some damping to chasis
I have recently bought beautiful old Grundig FineArts series CD player CD-9000. It sounds very, very good. It's based on TDA1541A-sometimes non A. I have got non A version but who cares it still sounds GREAT. Mechanism it uses is CDM2/29 not CDM4/11, different from what it says on the popular lists like this: http://www.zerogain.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10965
I don't know, maybe my player was made early in the series? I can not find the schematics. You can find some interesting mods here: Lampizator
Mister Lampizator has announced soon revealing of his NOS mod. Hurry up mister lampizator!
My player has difficulties reading discs straight after its turned on, but after few minutes it works fine. I have read somewhere that it is often the problem of depleted axial 33uF electrolyte on servo board with CDM2/29. If it's up to laser, I will try to find some "organ donor"CDP or fit/adopt new cartridge from 4/19 which is supposed to be a match as once Guido stated.
I plan to:
1. re cap the whole player, specialy TDA decoupling SMD ceramics
2. change diodes
3. change OPAMPs - instal better chasis RCAs
4. change power inlet, add mains filter,better power cable
5. If I learn how-try NOS mod
6. clock it
7. do some damping to chasis
Attachments
Diodes
I have a dilemma if I'm choosing the right diodes.
There are 8 standard 1N4002 diodes on the main power board that I plan to replace with BAT49 Schottkys. I believe its all right.
On the DAC board there are 4 diodes(see photo) that I guess are the same standard rectifiers family but different make -which makes me suspicious. Why would they put the same but different diodes. I can read 1N 02 T. They are snubbered with SMD ceramics underneath the board. If I'm right and those are just another standard 1Nxxx diodes, would it be OK to use BYV26 or would the 11DQ10 be better here?
I have a dilemma if I'm choosing the right diodes.
There are 8 standard 1N4002 diodes on the main power board that I plan to replace with BAT49 Schottkys. I believe its all right.
On the DAC board there are 4 diodes(see photo) that I guess are the same standard rectifiers family but different make -which makes me suspicious. Why would they put the same but different diodes. I can read 1N 02 T. They are snubbered with SMD ceramics underneath the board. If I'm right and those are just another standard 1Nxxx diodes, would it be OK to use BYV26 or would the 11DQ10 be better here?
Attachments
To drill or not to drill...
I have decided to do the TDA1541 14cap decoupling with the BG nx 0,1/50 caps. They are still available and small enough...
The idea is to drill the board on the GND tracks (black spots on the photo), solder the leads on both upper GND plane and track, and place the caps in up-down configuration. I would probably install the socket for TDA so I will be able to solder other cap leg directly to the pins. Of course I would remove the SMD ceramic caps.
I have done lots of readings but I am still not sure if I'm wrong. Main concern is could I disturb GND coexistence by connecting them this way!?
P.S. Ignore the sticker on the board, its already removed
I have decided to do the TDA1541 14cap decoupling with the BG nx 0,1/50 caps. They are still available and small enough...
The idea is to drill the board on the GND tracks (black spots on the photo), solder the leads on both upper GND plane and track, and place the caps in up-down configuration. I would probably install the socket for TDA so I will be able to solder other cap leg directly to the pins. Of course I would remove the SMD ceramic caps.
I have done lots of readings but I am still not sure if I'm wrong. Main concern is could I disturb GND coexistence by connecting them this way!?
P.S. Ignore the sticker on the board, its already removed
Attachments
I see this is an old thread but I like some information on this player. I bought one which is broken and just found out why. There's a couple of smd resistors missing !!! (part numbers R3395 - R3396 on the back of the board right behind part 6312) I tried to find these in the service manual I got from the web but can not find these parts ... who can help me identify these resistors so I can use my player again...
Hello dejacco.
You find these resistors if you look at the PCB layout.
Studying the schematics you will discover that part nr.6312 ( headphone amp njm4560) is not in use. The signal is routed to a separat headphone board contaning amplifier RC4556. Output from njm4560 is cut by removing/omitting resistors R3395 and R3396.
The mainboard (with njm4560) is probably also used in other cd-players with only a fixed headphone output. Thus the option to add output resistors R3395 and R3396 (often 150ohm).
Some experienced members could probably lead you through some faultfinding, and to do that they will need more info from you.
Regards
You find these resistors if you look at the PCB layout.
Studying the schematics you will discover that part nr.6312 ( headphone amp njm4560) is not in use. The signal is routed to a separat headphone board contaning amplifier RC4556. Output from njm4560 is cut by removing/omitting resistors R3395 and R3396.
The mainboard (with njm4560) is probably also used in other cd-players with only a fixed headphone output. Thus the option to add output resistors R3395 and R3396 (often 150ohm).
Some experienced members could probably lead you through some faultfinding, and to do that they will need more info from you.
Regards
grundig cd 9000
Thanks for the reply, I haven't had time to fix but I will check out your solution. Can you maybe point out where these component are located? (a picture would be fantastic
)
Thanks for the reply, I haven't had time to fix but I will check out your solution. Can you maybe point out where these component are located? (a picture would be fantastic
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