Tube-lover SE and Full Balance TDA1541a DAC - Page 15 - diyAudio
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Old 11th November 2009, 10:06 AM   #141
SamL is offline SamL  New Zealand
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Wgtn
Yes it is the 14 big blue cap around the TDA1541.
lampizato use 2.2 uF tantalum. I only go up to 1.1uF using 1uF PHE and Rifa SMR from my spare part box. The PHE are bulky and is quite hard to work with.
The Tantalum cap is quite small so they will be easy to handle. What I did was leaving the current cap alone and solder the bypass cap to the feet of the current cap (at the bottom of the PCB). No reason to throw away a good cap.
If you don't like the sound, just cut soldered cap off. It is a cheap mod and will not burn a hole to your pocket.
By right you should really do the power PCB 1st. The power supply affect everything and even though you might have the expensive blackgate, you must try this cheap mod. Yes, BG can clean up the power supply but a cleaner power supply allow the BG to do a much better job.
Lampizato use tantalum here but they are quite expensive where I am (almost the same price as PHE) so I use multilayer ceramic and monolithic. I add them wherever I can on the power PCB. Again I leave the current red bypass film cap alone but solder the new bypass cap to its feet.
I use ML ceramic on the 1st roll, monolithic on the 2nd and so on. And only do one or two roll at a time. Have a listen and enjoy the improvement for a week or two before heading for more soldering.
To me, these are the two must do on Thomas DAC. I find them better bang for the $ than BG.

Have fun

Last edited by SamL; 11th November 2009 at 10:14 AM.
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Old 16th November 2009, 11:20 AM   #142
gomi2 is offline gomi2  France
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Hello Sam,

i have been sending email to Thomas and ecdesigns and pocoyo and no answer

i don't know what to do for testing NOS mode

perhabs it is easy to transform full balanced version in SE version

can you please post detailed pictures of modules (so i can see connectors, wiring, jumpers.....)

if i don't arrive to do this i will perhabs test ecdesign mod for nos mode, but it' s would be great if someone has allready test and can confirm??

about capacitors you told :

"The power supply bypass. I find mixing different type of cap (ceramic, tantalum, monolithic) and value give the best bypass results. Try to bypass at every stages and places you can fit the cap. These cap are cheap and worth the effort.
"

I would be glad to see it on photos (where did you bypass, and with what value?)

thanks a lot for helpinp !

actually dac is singing on my system :

teac vrds X25
Thomas dac
apertura RC50 amplification
907Be JmLAB anniversary

i have been testing yersterday USB with streaming radio :
sky.fm, american singer radio

sound was incredible, just as good as Teac VRDS (but my cables are just very bad actually)

il will then do lampization !

thx a lot Sam
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Old 17th November 2009, 10:24 AM   #143
SamL is offline SamL  New Zealand
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I am using left over 33pF multilayer ceramic cap. Using mix value monolithic cap and I think they are between 2200pF to 0.001uF. I solder the cap right on the feet of the current red bypass cap. All you need to do is lightly desolder the current red bypass cap and solder the extra bypass cap on to it. Do one feet at a time. If you know soldering, this is piece of cake.
As for ecdesigns fix on the NOS, well his inst for SN74HC04 is for the 14 pin version. Thomas DAC is using 16 pin. I've email him asking for the 16pin inst and so far no reply.
As for the jumper setting, Julian inst is very complete. If you need to find out on other jumper, let me know and I'll have a look for you. The DAC is in a case and their wiring mean they are a pain to be taken out for photograph. Specially under the PCB. Not sure I'll have time to do this as work is heading to the end of year madness. Also, no guarantee of clear shot on every single jumper and cable.
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Old 19th November 2009, 08:24 AM   #144
gomi2 is offline gomi2  France
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Default some pics

hello ,

i send you some pics of my dac

can you just take a look at the wiring and jumpers positions?

i try now to transform my full balanced dac in SE dac

i think cards are the same, only wiring and perhabs jumpers are changing ?

i have been looking at the schematics, but i did nt found one schematic for SE dac and another for full balanced !

thanks a lot for your help : do you see something different in your dac (wiring !)

first pic is one of my two tda1541 card (i have been removing the other)

jumper 19 and 20 are important i think

Gomi
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Old 19th November 2009, 08:29 AM   #145
gomi2 is offline gomi2  France
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Default dac card

the same one, but i removed IV card (same position for connections?)
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Old 19th November 2009, 08:34 AM   #146
gomi2 is offline gomi2  France
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Default another card

another card : i have been removing the two CPLD (they are not on the SE DAC version) , and one of the two TDA1541 connection ; i think jumpers are in the same position julien setting OS+reclock

for wiring is it the same than yours?
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Old 19th November 2009, 08:41 AM   #147
gomi2 is offline gomi2  France
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Default and the last one

no jumpers on this one, but wiring : particulary J10 going to J2 on the precedent pic : here i suspect some differences !

thanks a lot for help

Gomi
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Old 19th November 2009, 08:44 AM   #148
gomi2 is offline gomi2  France
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Default last pic

last pic !
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Old 21st November 2009, 10:25 PM   #149
SamL is offline SamL  New Zealand
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Hi Gomi,

This is the photo of my Dac. It covers most of your inquiry. BTW, jumper 19 is open on mine. Jumper 20 is close.
Will see if this will appear as I am have not done it since the new forum upgrade.
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Old 21st November 2009, 10:31 PM   #150
SamL is offline SamL  New Zealand
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This is the bottom view of the power pcb. The yellow cap is 1uF polyester. I forgot about them...
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