Hello Alessandro,
What part of the manual do you need ? It is too big to attach.
If you want to modify your CD 80 please see this thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7439&highlight=cd80
Regards,
Jean-Paul
What part of the manual do you need ? It is too big to attach.
If you want to modify your CD 80 please see this thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7439&highlight=cd80
Regards,
Jean-Paul
Sorry Jean Paul,
I'm just at the beginning of diy and I'm trying to do something with a BIG help of a friend here in Rome.
Is too much to ask for the digital and analog schematic?
If it is, I'ld like to have the analog one as i'ld like to (try) work on it...
Thank you again
alessandro
PS. do you think is better to try to find another CDM1? (I've just take an used CD80)
I'm just at the beginning of diy and I'm trying to do something with a BIG help of a friend here in Rome.
Is too much to ask for the digital and analog schematic?
If it is, I'ld like to have the analog one as i'ld like to (try) work on it...
Thank you again
alessandro
PS. do you think is better to try to find another CDM1? (I've just take an used CD80)
Thank you Jean-Paul!
I was afraid for beeing late with my answer some days ago.
I'm not in any hurry...
I've been loking inside the cd80 but I didn't find the IC6522 and 6523...
and, I'm waiting for an answer from people here who seems to have the laser replacement for the CDM1, if you're interested I'll let you know
(always sorry for my english)
I was afraid for beeing late with my answer some days ago.
I'm not in any hurry...
I've been loking inside the cd80 but I didn't find the IC6522 and 6523...
and, I'm waiting for an answer from people here who seems to have the laser replacement for the CDM1, if you're interested I'll let you know
(always sorry for my english)
Hello Alessandro,
I just sent you something ! Good luck with it and think well before you do something in this player. The mods I did are proven in several CD 80's. I am not claiming wisdom but you can't go wrong with these. It is always possible to go further but it 'll cost more time and money and probably is irreversible ( if you care about that ). Best would be to make a new powerboard that fits on the mounting holes of the old one with better decoupling and LM317/337 and of course a discrete built I/V convertor.
If I would have one myself I would go that far but unfortunately I can't find a not too expensive AND goodlooking example with a good laser. So I mod them for others...
IC 6522 and 6523 are the regulators on the powerboard.
Jean-Paul
I just sent you something ! Good luck with it and think well before you do something in this player. The mods I did are proven in several CD 80's. I am not claiming wisdom but you can't go wrong with these. It is always possible to go further but it 'll cost more time and money and probably is irreversible ( if you care about that ). Best would be to make a new powerboard that fits on the mounting holes of the old one with better decoupling and LM317/337 and of course a discrete built I/V convertor.
If I would have one myself I would go that far but unfortunately I can't find a not too expensive AND goodlooking example with a good laser. So I mod them for others...
IC 6522 and 6523 are the regulators on the powerboard.
Jean-Paul
Please feed the clock module with it's own clean supply with a separate transformer. Guido Tent's clock was used by me in these players with great success. Elso Kwak's clock is another one to recommend. Only connect the braid of the coaxial or shielded cable to a ground point nearest to the SAA7220. That way you won't have ground loops and best results. 
If you're not used to do this kind of work you can make a drawing before you start how the wiring should be. Take the time and don't close the player after the first mods. Leave it opened and listen for a while. You can always put a cloth over it for dustprotection. Why do I say this ? The screws on both sides will wear out very fast after opening and closing the player several times. Never tighten them too hard, you'll regret it. The material is very soft. It sometimes fails after opening the unit twice.
If you disconnect the connectors of the headphone amp you'll have better sound too ( less cable ) but no output on the headphone plug
It's wise to resolder all joints again with good solder. They look cracked and sometimes they are too. Takes some time but guarantees error free behaviour.
Rainy sunday afternoons are perfect for these jobs. Oops, I forget you're from Italy > no rain
good luck and please tell us the results of your modded CD80,
Jean-Paul
If you're not used to do this kind of work you can make a drawing before you start how the wiring should be. Take the time and don't close the player after the first mods. Leave it opened and listen for a while. You can always put a cloth over it for dustprotection. Why do I say this ? The screws on both sides will wear out very fast after opening and closing the player several times. Never tighten them too hard, you'll regret it. The material is very soft. It sometimes fails after opening the unit twice.
If you disconnect the connectors of the headphone amp you'll have better sound too ( less cable ) but no output on the headphone plug
It's wise to resolder all joints again with good solder. They look cracked and sometimes they are too. Takes some time but guarantees error free behaviour.
Rainy sunday afternoons are perfect for these jobs. Oops, I forget you're from Italy > no rain
good luck and please tell us the results of your modded CD80,
Jean-Paul
You can tighten the worn screws again with some paper around them. Then again don't tighten them too hard...
When mods are finished you can take the cover and clamp the holes some with a forgot-the-english-name tool. If you do this it is possible to tighten them like nothing happened. Some older CD80's had two kind of copper clad screws. Forget about the shortest types. Newer CD80's had 8 screws of the long type.
They are also a bit responsible for the failure. It's better to find some more of the long ones even if they're not copper clad. They will go in a fresh piece of aluminium and voila; when you clean the display too from the inside your cd80 is like new
When mods are finished you can take the cover and clamp the holes some with a forgot-the-english-name tool. If you do this it is possible to tighten them like nothing happened. Some older CD80's had two kind of copper clad screws. Forget about the shortest types. Newer CD80's had 8 screws of the long type.
They are also a bit responsible for the failure. It's better to find some more of the long ones even if they're not copper clad. They will go in a fresh piece of aluminium and voila; when you clean the display too from the inside your cd80 is like new
Yes, really a good player! and also you don't have to disassemble everything to work on it.
I still don't know about cd80 versus cd17, the mods I made are only one day old... I think it will be better in abuot a week
I'm trying but is very very hard to find
Now I'ld try to learn how to make a good and simple output stage with NO feedback...
Hi, Jean-Paul
Have you looked into what the big sonic difference is on the old lasers v.s. CDM12.x ?
Is it the mecanics only, or is it the servo / decoder chips do you think?
Would it be possible to control a CDM4.x with new(er) chips?
(or CDM 12.x with older...)
Arne K
NORWAY
(have wrecked my CD-14 in frustration)
Have you looked into what the big sonic difference is on the old lasers v.s. CDM12.x ?
Is it the mecanics only, or is it the servo / decoder chips do you think?
Would it be possible to control a CDM4.x with new(er) chips?
(or CDM 12.x with older...)
Arne K
NORWAY
(have wrecked my CD-14 in frustration)
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