I'd like to place my digital sources far from amplification and speakers so I'm thinking to go wireless. The system should look like this:
Source side:
CD player --> spdif --> WiFi transmitter
Amplifier side:
WiFi receiver --> spdif --> D/A converter --> amplifier --> speakers
Bluetooth could be used instead of WiFi.
Is there a project or kit to build up such a system?
Best regards.
Paul
Source side:
CD player --> spdif --> WiFi transmitter
Amplifier side:
WiFi receiver --> spdif --> D/A converter --> amplifier --> speakers
Bluetooth could be used instead of WiFi.
Is there a project or kit to build up such a system?
Best regards.
Paul
No, Squeezebox acts as a music client and needs a music server running on a pc. I need a wireless spdif connection.
I have found this:
http://www.sonneteer.demon.co.uk/bardone.htm
but the transmitter only accepts analog and the receiver has not a digital output.
Ideas?
Paul
I have found this:
http://www.sonneteer.demon.co.uk/bardone.htm
but the transmitter only accepts analog and the receiver has not a digital output.
Ideas?
Paul
I know this is not exactly what you had in mind, but the $100 Apple Airport Express has optical SPDIF output. True, you need a computer running, but then again, the ability to sit with your laptop and play music wirelessly off hard drive seems more desirable than swapping out CD's.
Less handling of the CD is better, IMO.
If you insist on the hardware CD player, I would opt for optical transmission, and tuck the cable into the room edges.
Less handling of the CD is better, IMO.
If you insist on the hardware CD player, I would opt for optical transmission, and tuck the cable into the room edges.
One option
Do you have google?
One option is to get yourself a pair of wireless speakers, and open them up in order to tap the analog signal into your amp.
There are bluetooth transmitters and receivers out there, I found one after a 2 second search on google.
blutooth tx/rx
Belkin Tunestage
iHIFI Transmitter
iHIFI receiver
So what you want is a bluetooth receiver with a digital audio output to feed a DAC- here is a reference design
edit- none of these products require servers or computers.
Do you have google?
One option is to get yourself a pair of wireless speakers, and open them up in order to tap the analog signal into your amp.
There are bluetooth transmitters and receivers out there, I found one after a 2 second search on google.
blutooth tx/rx
Belkin Tunestage
iHIFI Transmitter
iHIFI receiver
So what you want is a bluetooth receiver with a digital audio output to feed a DAC- here is a reference design
edit- none of these products require servers or computers.
Well, since this is a DIY site, have you looked at this neat little chipset:
http://www.nordicsemi.no/index.cfm?obj=product&act=display&pro=86
There are some eval-boards too I think.
OJG
http://www.nordicsemi.no/index.cfm?obj=product&act=display&pro=86
There are some eval-boards too I think.
OJG
The Nordic nRF24Z1 evaluation board costs about 400 EUR (more than 500 USD). Too expensive !!!
In this DIY thread a project published by Elektor is suggested:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=271120&highlight=#post271120
Has anyone tried it?
Paul
In this DIY thread a project published by Elektor is suggested:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=271120&highlight=#post271120
Has anyone tried it?
Paul
Rocketfish
Have you found a solution to your wireless SPDIF transmittal question?
I recently bought the Rocketfish wireless transmitter / amplifier combo. These have only analog input and outputs. However, when you open the boxes up, inside there are five-pin jacks marked with standard digital notation like bitclock, L/Rclock, +5V, etc., as if someone intended there to be SPDIF inputs and outputs.
The chipset used on this (also on the Acoustic Research wireless headphones) works well with almost no latency. It may be worth investigating how to add SPDIF. Interestingly the more expensive AR headphone does have an SPDIF input but, obviously, nothing on the actual headphones.
Have you found a solution to your wireless SPDIF transmittal question?
I recently bought the Rocketfish wireless transmitter / amplifier combo. These have only analog input and outputs. However, when you open the boxes up, inside there are five-pin jacks marked with standard digital notation like bitclock, L/Rclock, +5V, etc., as if someone intended there to be SPDIF inputs and outputs.
The chipset used on this (also on the Acoustic Research wireless headphones) works well with almost no latency. It may be worth investigating how to add SPDIF. Interestingly the more expensive AR headphone does have an SPDIF input but, obviously, nothing on the actual headphones.
this is what you are looking for
http://www.elv.de/Digitale-Audio-Si...bausatz/x.aspx/cid_74/detail_10/detail2_16757
instructions(only german)
http://www.elv-downloads.de/service/manuals/TIR100/73954_TIR100_km.pdf
http://www.elv.de/Digitale-Audio-Si...bausatz/x.aspx/cid_74/detail_10/detail2_16757
instructions(only german)
http://www.elv-downloads.de/service/manuals/TIR100/73954_TIR100_km.pdf
xenob,
thank you, the device you suggest is the closest thing to what I need. I have no time to experiment with the Elektor circuit, which also uses IR, so having a try with that commercial S/P-DIF to IR converter may be worthy. My digital source has only a coaxial S/P-DIF output, so I need a coaxial to toslink converter. Can you suggest a simple circuit?
Best regards.
Paul
thank you, the device you suggest is the closest thing to what I need. I have no time to experiment with the Elektor circuit, which also uses IR, so having a try with that commercial S/P-DIF to IR converter may be worthy. My digital source has only a coaxial S/P-DIF output, so I need a coaxial to toslink converter. Can you suggest a simple circuit?
Best regards.
Paul
"I've read that a wireless video transmitter/receiver set will handle S/PDIF signals. Use the RCA video jacks, not the audio jacks."
I doubt that...SPDIF is not a waveform.
It would work though if the SPDIF is first changed into a Y/C signal, the way original Sony PCM F1s did (so that they could use the Betamax system for recording). I have been meaning to experiment with this by buying a pair on Ebay but they are somewhat rare and only one model has a SPDIF I/O, the rest are analogue.
I doubt that...SPDIF is not a waveform.
It would work though if the SPDIF is first changed into a Y/C signal, the way original Sony PCM F1s did (so that they could use the Betamax system for recording). I have been meaning to experiment with this by buying a pair on Ebay but they are somewhat rare and only one model has a SPDIF I/O, the rest are analogue.
av sender for spdif
I've also read somewhere that an AV sender can be used for SPDIF transmission, using the video section only. If I remember correctly, it was being used to send the front audio channels from the source components in an AV setup at the back of a room, to the front amp & speakers, at (no surprise really) the front of the room.
I have a similar application myself, but would like further comfirmation that such a device can be used for this purpose, before I shell out my money only to find that it either doesn't work at all, or that you need to buy a specific type of sender, not just one picked at random.
Is there anyone out there who has such a device and is willing to run a trial for us?
I've also read somewhere that an AV sender can be used for SPDIF transmission, using the video section only. If I remember correctly, it was being used to send the front audio channels from the source components in an AV setup at the back of a room, to the front amp & speakers, at (no surprise really) the front of the room.
I have a similar application myself, but would like further comfirmation that such a device can be used for this purpose, before I shell out my money only to find that it either doesn't work at all, or that you need to buy a specific type of sender, not just one picked at random.
Is there anyone out there who has such a device and is willing to run a trial for us?
Yes, you can use the video channel of an AV sender to send S/PDIF. The coax S/PDIF signal is just under 1v, and likes a 75ohm load, so it's electrically similar to a composite video signal.
I've used these to send multichannel 1.5Mb/s DTS streams and 780Khz Dolby Digital streams across a room, and between two adjacent rooms with wood walls.
You get best results if point to point distance is less than 20 feet. The main problem is signal drop-outs caused by someone walking in the path between the transmitter and receiver will cause the Dolby Digital or DTS decoders in your receiver to un-lock, and drop-out for a second or so while it re-syncs to the stream. You get the best results if you can 'lock' your receiver to a specific stream type ( raw stereo, DTS, DD ) as the stream re-aquisition time is faster ( the receiver doesn't have to spend time figuring out what type of signal it is. )
If you can have both the transmitter and receiver up high and line of sight, then you should orient the directional antennas so they face each other. If you can't do this, and must have the transmitter and receiver within the walking path, you can still get acceptable results by experimenting with antenna orientation on the transmitter and receiver. Often times orienting the antennas to 'bounce' off a suface in the room ( like the ceiling ) gives the best results.
I've tried quite a few senders ( X-10 / Radio Shack ), but have had the best luck with the RF-LINK 5.8Ghz sender.
Remember, it will never be 'perfect' .. you will always get the occasional drop-out.
A better solution is the Nordic chip mentioned in an earlier post. I found one site that has modules that 'appear' to be based on the Nordic NRFZ1, and can transport S/PDIF. They're a bit expensive at 95Euro a module. I haven't tried them myself.
atific spdif module
Hope this helps.
Jonathan
I've used these to send multichannel 1.5Mb/s DTS streams and 780Khz Dolby Digital streams across a room, and between two adjacent rooms with wood walls.
You get best results if point to point distance is less than 20 feet. The main problem is signal drop-outs caused by someone walking in the path between the transmitter and receiver will cause the Dolby Digital or DTS decoders in your receiver to un-lock, and drop-out for a second or so while it re-syncs to the stream. You get the best results if you can 'lock' your receiver to a specific stream type ( raw stereo, DTS, DD ) as the stream re-aquisition time is faster ( the receiver doesn't have to spend time figuring out what type of signal it is. )
If you can have both the transmitter and receiver up high and line of sight, then you should orient the directional antennas so they face each other. If you can't do this, and must have the transmitter and receiver within the walking path, you can still get acceptable results by experimenting with antenna orientation on the transmitter and receiver. Often times orienting the antennas to 'bounce' off a suface in the room ( like the ceiling ) gives the best results.
I've tried quite a few senders ( X-10 / Radio Shack ), but have had the best luck with the RF-LINK 5.8Ghz sender.
Remember, it will never be 'perfect' .. you will always get the occasional drop-out.
A better solution is the Nordic chip mentioned in an earlier post. I found one site that has modules that 'appear' to be based on the Nordic NRFZ1, and can transport S/PDIF. They're a bit expensive at 95Euro a module. I haven't tried them myself.
atific spdif module
Hope this helps.
Jonathan
AV Sender for Spdif transmission
Thanks Jonathan, that's useful info. I've tried asking various manufacturers whether their device can do this, but without any luck so far. I think I'll go striaght to the 5.8Ghz option rather than try some of the more common 2.4Ghz units, as I've already found out there are issues with both microwave oven & wireless network interference at this frequency.
Regards
Steve
Thanks Jonathan, that's useful info. I've tried asking various manufacturers whether their device can do this, but without any luck so far. I think I'll go striaght to the 5.8Ghz option rather than try some of the more common 2.4Ghz units, as I've already found out there are issues with both microwave oven & wireless network interference at this frequency.
Regards
Steve
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.