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Old 5th October 2012, 11:38 AM   #751
caneton is offline caneton  France
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http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attac...ter-opamp1.jpg
just some body try make mods with capacitor in single beat decoder like john-w in self?
like
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attac...ter-opamp1.jpg
good thing? impact? of capacitors?
;-)
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Old 18th November 2012, 10:09 AM   #752
tonimxp is offline tonimxp  Italy
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Default DaCapo issue solved or not ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mr-mac View Post
John I was wondering if you came to any conclusion about the pink noise from the da-capo DAC from the post on the forum middle of last year.

I also have a Da-Capo which creates the same pink/white noise sound, with a hint of the music behind it, after a period of being powered up (doesn't seem to make a difference if it is in standby or not, just the power being plugged in).

The DAC has the HDCD filter fitted (so isn't the 1307 filter issue that you mentioned).

I have tried re-seating the filter module and moving the Input card to a different slot. Neither have made any difference.

Funnily enough about 4 – 5 months ago a Da-Capo came up for sale that must have been one of your development ones. The serial was no 1 and it had a dedication to your wife actully on the circuit board. If I had seen your name on these forums before now I would have let you know as it sold for silly low money…

Lastly I wondered if by any chance anyone might have a copy of the original Da-Capo instruction manual at all? I would really appreciate a photocopy of it (been trying to get one for ages), I am also looking for a Cardinal instruction manual as well…

Does anyone know the dip switch settings for the HDCD filter (or will I only get intelligible sound if I have used the correct setting)

What transport was the Cardinal based on… Yes I know the drawer etc is some bespoke low vibration material etc… but I guess the laser and motors etc. were taken from a commercially available Transport… It would be of immense help as I could then track down some s/h really cheap units that used the same laser and motors etc for future spares.

John can you remember if the cardinal produced performance figures (jitter etc.) better than most other transports produced, or is it just good figures for it's era?

Lastly is there any other transports that use a compatible clock lock to the Da-Capo DAC? Just wondered because at some point if the cardinal broke and it can’t repaired it would be good to know of any other transports that would work with the clock lock connection on the DAC.

Thanks for any info that can be offered.

John H

PS my Cardinal accepts CD-R’s without any drama (including the cheapest of the cheap CD-R’s), I haven’t tried RW’s but will later tonight.
Hi Mr-Mac!I have the same problem with my Dacapo,please can you (or other people on this forum) give my same information to solve the problem if is possible?
Thanks in advance

Antonio
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Old 18th November 2012, 12:17 PM   #753
IanAS is offline IanAS  England
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I did some work to one with hiss and it seemed to not be a problem once I'd changed the various electrolytic capacitors in there, most of which were leaking. Plus I added some better ones, namely the Nichicon conductive polymer type, which did improve the sound.

There were still some hiss/noise problems as you describe, but it almost seemed as if it could be that the pins or sockets for the filter canister were not clean enough / tarnished.

When working well, it will hiss for the first ½ a second or so from switch on, then 'lock' on and the hiss stops. A different filter, the HDCD, was tried and there were random hiss problems with it. So I wondered if it was that the noise was about something not locking onto some clock signal due to tarnished contacts to / from the filter.

Last edited by IanAS; 18th November 2012 at 12:21 PM.
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Old 18th November 2012, 12:45 PM   #754
tonimxp is offline tonimxp  Italy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IanAS View Post
I did some work to one with hiss and it seemed to not be a problem once I'd changed the various electrolytic capacitors in there, most of which were leaking. Plus I added some better ones, namely the Nichicon conductive polymer type, which did improve the sound.

There were still some hiss/noise problems as you describe, but it almost seemed as if it could be that the pins or sockets for the filter canister were not clean enough / tarnished.

When working well, it will hiss for the first ½ a second or so from switch on, then 'lock' on and the hiss stops. A different filter, the HDCD, was tried and there were random hiss problems with it. So I wondered if it was that the noise was about something not locking onto some clock signal due to tarnished contacts to / from the filter.
Hi IanAs And thanks for your reply, i have to say you that all caps are already replaced and i have looking for if there were corroded tracks but could not find anything.I have a oscilloscope,but i have'nt electric diagram so i can't check waveforms as SCK , L/R ,DATA ,please see picture attached.
I tried to compare them with those of my Philips CD 650 that has a TDA1541 (pin 1.2.3)and the signals were not equal but attenuated and distorted and dirty.
I also tried changing input slot but nothing resolved.
Now I'm almost discouraged!
It would be interesting to have the references of the waveforms and/or voltage of the test points on the PCB.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20121118_122019.jpg (832.9 KB, 131 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20121118_121935.jpg (712.2 KB, 123 views)

Last edited by tonimxp; 18th November 2012 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 18th November 2012, 02:49 PM   #755
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Hi, I had had similar problem as you have. My case was white noise, cricking noise, distortion on the sound and sound level difference right and left. I wander how do you connect the output of Dacapo to the AMP. I assume the D might be very sensitive to the very small current from outside. I make numbers of pre-AMPs using Valves. The recent development is using 70 times lower signals from D for reducing the distortion for overall pre-AMP. So, far D has been working happily with it.
The configuration of the mother board and DIP is as follows;
1 – 2 >> Open, 2 – 3 >> Close. DIP: 1 >> Right, 2 >> Left, 3 >> Right, 4>> Left.
I recommend the Audio lab M-DAC for the replacement of D, setting the audio level to 0 dB and the filter to Transient XD. If you buy it, you need to burn it at least one week. Do not criticise the initial sound you hear. I have not done yet the close comparison between M and D. However, I feel D with HDCD is slightly better. I hope my comments will help you someway.
Regards, Tammy
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Old 19th November 2012, 06:21 PM   #756
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Hi, Further to my article yesterday, I would like to inform of the new development. Up to Yesterday my D had been working perfectly. However, I noticed today it has been dead. From this result I believe my suspecting was wrong. I have started to use M-Dac again. On the other hand, I have noticed I need to change some electrical parameter in my development for this change. Perhaps the sound resolution will be changed as well.
All DC powers of D are OK, but when the mains power is on, HDCD and Stand By indicators are on and 1-2second later HDCD indicator is going off and it never come back again. Also I have noticed all signal relays do not energized. If anybody comes close to the solution, please let me know.
Regards, Tammy
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Old 20th November 2012, 09:40 PM   #757
tonimxp is offline tonimxp  Italy
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Hi Tammy for this time i still have not solved the problem, and I think without reference (schematic diagram) I will be impossible to solve.
Please someone have it please?

Thanks in advance

Antonio.
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Old 21st November 2012, 05:50 PM   #758
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Hi Antonio,
I agree with you, we can pinpoint the faulty components if the schematic diagram is available. However, it can be difficult to obtain it. Before I purchased M-DAC, I had tested about 9 difference DACs. The price ranges of those were from £ 400.00 to £ 2500.00. Unfortunately none of those were satisfactory for my projects. There were no details at edges of sounds. Those were like unfocused pictures. Also, the most of those were modulating sounds to their tastes. Some end users might prefer such sound. One of reasons of it might be that their own AMP might be infected by some modulations as well (can not hear original sound). It is difficult to use such products as the reference, if some systems are developing. So far I have been finding M-DAC is one to satisfy all most my requirements. I assume J/W’s development philosophy is to create natural sound on the DAC. I have noticed this strategy since I hard the sound through D. I assume his secret might not be published. I am thinking to sell off my D as the spare parts purpose only and 1307 + HDCD filters separately. My original D was fitted 1307 filter. When I purchased HDCD filter, Pink Triangle requested to modify my D. It seems the modification was that <HDCD on signal> feeds from the front indicator panel to the HDCD filter using a tiny cable and plug. I wander if the latest D has got this cable or it is required same modification as I had when the end user is going to replace with HDCD. I would like to have an answer if anybody knows it to my question.
Regards, Tammy
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Old 17th August 2013, 02:21 PM   #759
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Question PT da Capo 220-240 Volt mains card?

Hi

This mentions the breaking of these DACs for spares..?

My M-DAC broke Down Within 2 weeks of purchase....
My da Capo battery pack is also troubled?

Does anybody hAve For Sale a 220 volt mains card either with or without replaced capacitors from a scrapped da Capo?

Thanks

Alistair p.,
Scotland
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Old 17th August 2013, 02:50 PM   #760
tonimxp is offline tonimxp  Italy
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Default dac

Hi if you want i have yet the da capo dac , so if you want i can sale it complete.
Greeting.
ANTONIO
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