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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Puget Sound
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Just a self-congratulatory post to report that I just got my DCX2496 up and running. The only tricky part was realizing the outputs were muted by default.
I don't have a serial port on my laptop so until I can get a usb-serial adapter, I've been dinking around with the front panel controls. I'm suprised to say that without cracking the manual, it's fairly decent as far as setting crossover points/slopes and levels, although I'm using the defaults. I hooked it up to my Feandil-linearray-killer which comprises of a TB-871, Audax PR170M0, and an 8" MCM woofer. The amps are a BrianGT rev A gainclone, AKSA 55, and Adcom 545ii, respectively. I can honestly say my CDs have never sounded this way before. The PR170M0s have been waiting for Fountek NeoPro5i's that arrived this past Thursday and for a quartet of Lambda Dipole12s that will arrive this coming Wednesday. Before the DCX arrived, I hadn't actually tried to get all those woofers working together. |
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#2 |
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Banned
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Tampa
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What? A Feandil Linearray killer! You better rush it on over to ebay for an easy $20k sale. Just don't mention all the "help" you got from Mcintosh
. That may cause t-r-o-u-b-l-e..... His mom's probably still beating the snot out off him. Cheers, AJ |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Puget Sound
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Screw ebay, I'm going to sell it on audiogone.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: S.C
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Hello,
Do you mind if I ask how you have it all hooked up. Do you use a standard home pre amp. Are you using rca to balanced simple wire conversions or are you boosting the pre amp signal? Do you experience any low level hiss. I am asking to find out because I have that problem at low volumes. I have heard of passive volume controles but am unsure how to implement them. Any help you can offer will be appreciated. Thanks, Chris |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Puget Sound
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source > preamp > DCX > amp
I made a simple rca to XLR cable by bridging pins 1 and 3 per the Behringer manual (p20). Yes, I have the hiss using it with standard home preamp/amps. I'm not too worried about it at the moment as I plan to use it to prototype the final crossover which will be active between the woofer and mid/tweeter and passive between the mid and tweeter. So the intent is not to leave it in the chain for long. If I wanted to keep it in the loop, I'd probably sell the DCX and step up to the Rane RPM26z which can handle volume control. I know there are some folks working on 6-channel volume controls but based on my own remote control 2-ch kit purchases, the cost can get pretty high so you could end up getting close to the Rane pricepoint. With the Rane, I'd likely dispense with the preamp altogether. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bremerton, WA.
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Fellas,
Try breaking the pin 1 to 3 connection on any adaptors or cables you have on the DCX outputs. This will decrease the gain in the analog output section of the DCX and force the signal 6db higher relative to the noise. You can take this even farther by adding fixed attenuator pads on the DCX outputs. A six-channel volume control is the way to go ultimately (they don't have to be expensive,) but in the mean time that should help you. Cheers, Davey. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Puget Sound
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Just spent a few minutes with a mic and the free version of TrueRTA. Obtained a better match with my super efficient Audax mid. EQ'd a peak at 15k and below 200Hz to deal with my woofer rolloff. Then plugged the mic into the DCX and did the time-align thing. All together it made a world of difference. I could very easily listen to this all evening.
Someone posted a Rane article that showed connecting pin 3 to black and pin 1 to the shield when going from RCA to XLR which would be my input side. On output from XLR to RCA, they show pins 1 and 3 bridged and connected to both shield and black. Is that what you are talking about? |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bremerton, WA.
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Yes, that's exactly what I'm talking about. Don't make the connection between pin 1 and pin 3 on the DCX outputs. On the inputs it doesn't matter.
There are dozens of threads on this forum related to the DCX and its various idiosyncrasies for hifi use. I would suggest reviewing them all to pickup a bunch of good information. Here's just one: Behringer DCX 2496 attenuation of outputs? Cheers, Davey. |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
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Quote:
<BREATH> HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAA H Brian, I love it, unless you'v patented it thats what I'm going to refer to my Fountek/PR170s as from now one... the FLAK-1s ... Feanfil-Line-Array-Killer-MK1s ... ![]() --Chris |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Puget Sound
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Davey, I'm confused. What you just wrote is exactly opposite of what the Rane document seems to be saying.
17) RCA output (source) to a XLR male input (DCX) has 1 to shield and 2 to red, 3 to black. 6) XLR female output (DCX) to RCA input (amp) has 1 to shield, 2 to red, 3 to black with 1 and 3 bridged. Thanks for the thread pointer. I'll check it out. I did go through several DCX posts before I bought it but some details didn't stick. The hiss isn't horrible but if I can fix it relatively easily, I will. |
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