I have never trusted the components that were supplied with an ebay kit; figured all the functioning parts went to the assembled and tested boards. I have had good luck with starting with an assembled board and swapping most of the parts gradually.
Typically, the supplies on a dac are 9vac for analog on the dac chip, 9vac for digital on dac, maybe receiver chip, and 15-0-15 for the analog output.
Typically, the supplies on a dac are 9vac for analog on the dac chip, 9vac for digital on dac, maybe receiver chip, and 15-0-15 for the analog output.
Yes, and the middle one too... I expoxied them to the heatsinks after I soldered the regulator on without the heatsink attached... too low to use the mounting screw.Was the regulator closest to the edge fastened to the heatsink at some point?
The supply transformer is 9VAC... So the board must be operating at a lower voltage than that.I have never trusted the components that were supplied with an ebay kit; figured all the functioning parts went to the assembled and tested boards. I have had good luck with starting with an assembled board and swapping most of the parts gradually.
Typically, the supplies on a dac are 9vac for analog on the dac chip, 9vac for digital on dac, maybe receiver chip, and 15-0-15 for the analog output.
Well, managed to get a partial refund for the DAC... And purchased this one... Assembled!
Maybe not the same quality caps, but now I have spares
Better RCA's, XLR's, and a simpler 9VAC input/rectifier section....
So some easy upgrades possible.
Already ordered a pair of Burr Brown mono OPA134's to compliment the Burson's. The easiest of upgrades!
If I can figure out how to desolder the dip8 Burson's from the other board!
Maybe not the same quality caps, but now I have spares
Better RCA's, XLR's, and a simpler 9VAC input/rectifier section....
So some easy upgrades possible.
Already ordered a pair of Burr Brown mono OPA134's to compliment the Burson's. The easiest of upgrades!
If I can figure out how to desolder the dip8 Burson's from the other board!
I would snip the leads off the board, then snip the adapter into eight parts, then individually remove those from the pins on the op amp module. I would wait and just use the sockets for them with the new board, at least for a long time until you are sure that nothing else will be swapped.
Those modules work pretty good with a 4.7uf 50v, right on the pins, under the board too, along with any smaller, film parts.
That new board looks pretty decent if it comes as shown, I have a similar one that uses an ak4495, I put a snubber circuit on each set of diodes too, smoothed out the sound, more details too.
Those modules work pretty good with a 4.7uf 50v, right on the pins, under the board too, along with any smaller, film parts.
That new board looks pretty decent if it comes as shown, I have a similar one that uses an ak4495, I put a snubber circuit on each set of diodes too, smoothed out the sound, more details too.
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