Best caps for PSU DDDac: BHC or ...?

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Hi, I was wandering what the best option is for powersupply caps for a DDDAC 1543. I tried a 10.000uf-63V BHC ALN20s (t-network slitfoils). They sound very good, but I needed them for another powersupply (got 4 of them). Now I'm back at the 10.000 uf Panasonic TSUP. What a difference especially in the bass! The BHC's are more difficult to get. Maybe try one of these options?

10x 1000uF Panasonic FM
10x 1000uF Elna Silmic II
.....

Would that be an improvement or is the BHC better? Other options under 40 euro's?

Tnks!
 
I'm using this powersupply btw:
3090oc7.jpg
 
Actually Dave, I respectively disagree here, particularly with the BHC Slit Foils - they do impart a particular characteristic to any power supply - the main question is the design layout of the pcb if that's a Velleman p/supply design - there's plenty of pcb disasters around with this sort of reg.

For DDDAC's 1543, I'd suggest you have a look at the Nichicon GT (Gold Tones) - and use a soft recovery diode instead of those 6A6 ones

Paradise does a pretty good supply for this dac chip too ....,
 
Tnks! I did change the diodes to schottky ones. And put a 1 Ohm 5 watt resistor just before C5. Between pin 3 and 4 a 100uf panasonic FM, also between pin 5 and ground. That made quite a difference. Someone adviced me btw, I don't know too much about electronics :)

I can't find the Nichicon GT series, do you mean KG series? Would I be better to use 10x1000uF in stead of 1x10.000uF? I ve read somewhere that because of the lower ESR the first option would be a lot better. Type I II or III Gold Tune?

1x LKG1H103MESCBK - 7 euro (type II)
10x LKG1H102MESYBK - 25 euro (type II)

Or would you advice another type?
 
There's a difference between most electros in basic power supplies (C-R-C for example) but this is reduced when using regulators, and especially the pcb layout as Dave mentioned above

As a ripple cap, I would suggest that the basic type I Gold Tune would be quite sufficient for the job - not much difference here between I & II - shouldn't be anywhere near that price for 'normal' voltages - the output cap in your diagram C4 is the one where most change is noticed and just maybe you won't want to use the very low 'esr' caps after a regulator IC as it sometimes produces instability

There's possibly a thread associated with the Velleman website that'll indicate some of the variations used with their circuit that other people have already done - this'll save you 'guessing' but on the other hand, by playing around a bit with components, you learn quite a bit about these things and would very much encourage this

For example, suggest you remove C3 bypass on the output electro and also the similar C2 on the main filter cap and have a good listen - some of these changes may not be quite logical as you're supplying voltage/current to a dac chip here instead of an IC gain stage and most regulator discussion threads are associated with gain stages, buffers, etc not dac chips

Have a look at the National Semiconductor information sheet for their lm723 regulator chip - there's quite a few pages of applications that perhaps may give you some ideas about how this unit functions

About those BHC Slit Foils - IMO here, but these would be really useful as the second caps in a power amplifier C-R-C supply especially if you're looking for clarity in the midrange - will be dependent on the amp's circuit and application, naturally.

All the best .....
 
Tnks for the advice. I changed C4 from Rubycon ZLG to Elna Silmic II and the bypass cap to Vishay (still have to experiment without the bypass caps). Also changed C5 to 2x 10.000uF BHC Slit Foils from an old Rotel amp and bypassed it with 470uF and 100uF Elna Silmic II. Huge difference! So much more much detail, Haven't heard this before. But it's a bit on the cool, analytic side (missing warmth and a bit mid/bass). The bass could also be a little tighter, I guess that 's because de Slit Foils are 20 years old. Now I'm gonna order some Epcos (Siemens) Sikorel 10.000uf. Heard great reviews about them.

I couldn't find anything on the Velleman kit and I m not that good with electronics, but I did find PSU's with the LM723 where the C4 had a much higher value, for example 33000uF. Would that make sense in my PSU?
 
I don't think the age of the Slit Foils will be significant - these units have a very long life - but, yes, the extra definition in the mids etc do make them seem a bit bass shy

you might have a look around for 2nd hand Sikorels instead of buying new - these also have very long life - unfortunately, they things are huge in size, or at least the B41550/41570 (70's have the metal cans connected to metal studs for heatsinking) - think the more modern ones are lot smaller and some thru hole version - not sure about sound but will probably still be similar - other 'old ones' can be B41445 too - don't pay big prices for these in Europe and be aware of some fakes around these days - I found a lot on 'eBay.de' (Germany)

If you do get one, or probably better a pair, try combining these as the C5 in a C-R-C combination with maybe something like a 10R, maybe 100R, resistor between them - a learning 'thing', if you want - I did this in a power amp (10mF, 0.1R, 10mF) and the combination was excellent for both bass and mids

I think you've gone well past the point of 'making sense' about components about this reg board - now you're into self learning territory and this is well worth the extra $s, IMO, considering that the components will still be available for use elsewhere

Just a comment about increasing the ripple cap to 33,000 - there's a point where the size of electros change their behaviour and this is quite different for different types and the use, unfortunately, and so confusion reigns supreme here - personally, I've only once used an electros over 10,000 (a purchase lot of 12,000uF) in a power supply be it simple C or the usual C-R-C - I generally will write off a couple of volts and use a 'C-Multiplier' if need to reduce ripple, etc in a power supply for say, the First Watt designs

However, at the speed of development of those 'new fangled' switch mode supplies, soon it'll make good sense to use one of these instead of the big ripple caps like your C5, for example, and only use a much smaller one - again, my opinion here and could quite easily be total hogwash
 
Maybe you can try some experiments :

remove C2 then listen to the difference !
then try to swap the empty C2 with a Panasonic FM 1500 uF with a 5mm leads space. And also a FC serie of the same value(different sounding result)

You can remove also C4 by a standard Black Gate from 100 or 47 uF if you have one !

try to play with C3 : 1 uF instead 0.1 uF, also withthe model : like the mkt blue one from Epcos or the 2.5 mm leads space from Wima (MKS serie), both give very different sounding result... and here avoid ceramic !

Well any caps change will change the sound, it can be for the best or the worst. The best if you proceed with patience. Advantage is to tune with the sound of your whole hifi !
 
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for C5, using Nichicon Super Through (type III) is a good choice for an existing product which you can buy from Mpercy or PCX. I think that 4700uF should be enough, nichi ST 10mF will be solder lug which may not fit into your pcb. but if you want to go further, try to search Elna Cerafine (some says it's same level as BG FK). it appeared on swap several times, I got my 4.700uf from peter daniel. you can look at Audio Note dac 4 or 5 which use this elna cerafine 10.000uF

for lower elco size like 100uf, you can use elna silmic ii which is commonly used. you can also search that there is a special type ARS (brown casing and gold leg), but they are also more expensive than regular silmic.

for my dac, I only use black gate and some oscon sg for digital supply
 
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You at it again Eldam. Lol
My take, there's no best more like
what brand at which position also
my findings is high capacitance
will constrict the sound & music
looses bounce .

this circuit looks very near to the Subbu v3 power supply... I mooded it to my taste and learn also from the choice of the designers, J-P and Subbu.

And yes I would choose Something between 1200 to 3300 Pan FC... and no Silmic II, please ! :D

by the way, bonne Année !
 
Tnks guys! That's great input. I ordered some nice caps to experiment with all this. Some Epcos Sikorel 4700uF, Nichicon KG and Panasonic FC. The Sikorel weren't that expensive at Digikey (payed around 15 euro each). And I do have a few Black Gate 100uF (F) lying around. Lots to experiment with :)
 
You at it again Eldam. Lol
My take, there's no best more like
what brand at which position also
my findings is high capacitance
will constrict the sound & music
looses bounce .

I have experienced this loss of bounce with excessive capacitance as well when modding cd players.
I thought of it as fluidity, the player became more solid, better bass, sounded in some ways better, but not as fluid. Its a tough hobby:)
 
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