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Old 29th April 2016, 05:26 PM   #1
eduard is offline eduard  Netherlands
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Default Adventures in dddac land

Hello,
After reading the old thread I wanted to start a new one because there will be new questions and probably new ideas too.
In the old thread some people start talking about changing the wima caps in the digital part by 100nF kemet PPS caps and the 10microfarad cap by a Sanyo os con.
Some other member did ask Doede and this info was forwarded to me.
C6 and C15 are the most import ones. C11 and C 12 Doede wouldn't care and if then only C12. The kemets are not expensive so not a big dilemma.
On the main board there is a bigger number of 100nF but still not a big investment.
Months ago I did start with construction of the dddac mainframe. I want it to be sturdy because there is some heavy iron inside. I don't want it to twist no matter how I hold or put it after all there are circuit boards inside that don't like to be twisted.
The two sides have rectangular holes that are closed by mounting small plates with threaded holes ( so much easier to install) . When no function is needed they just serve for airflow. Other can serve for mounting cinch, bnc 75 ohm input ( my present dac uses bnc in), power connector, you name it and within a few days it can be changed. No need to start drilling in your precious dac.
Wanna make it in such a way that it can function like pictured. There will be no connections to other gear on the back side.
Have to find a way to make a nice look at the front side. Not sure if I need these led. Maybe just the input switch.
My 4 board dddac will have the boards mounted vertically to have better airflow and shorter connections.
At first will be used with cd transport. Later other boards can be added for .....things all new to me. Haven't got a clue to be honest.
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Old 30th April 2016, 01:09 PM   #2
eduard is offline eduard  Netherlands
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Hello,
Things start arriving at my doorstep. Now just waiting for Sowthers and Kemet caps. Did find a stock of black gate n caps in my hobby room. Could be used too.
Greetings eduard
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Old 30th April 2016, 02:55 PM   #3
eduard is offline eduard  Netherlands
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Hello,
I thought that the Silmic 10uf 25 volts caps looked small compared to the ones used on the old board ( nich muse KZ 47mF 25 volts). The caps provided in the kit are according to the value indicated in the new updated board so 10 uF but they are 100 volts.
Pin spacing on my Silmic is a bit smaller than de 10 uf muse but they can be used. Maybe dont push them all the way down to the board and/or use a plier to get some extra distance between the pins.
Just have a few Black gate 100uF 16 volts if i wanted to use where would they be benificial?
Greetings, Eduard
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Old 1st May 2016, 04:34 PM   #4
eduard is offline eduard  Netherlands
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Default Big improvement

Hello,
Did start with my boards. Using an old mirror I managed to get from 4 to 8. Greetings, eduard
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Old 1st May 2016, 07:38 PM   #5
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Imagine how good things could be if you devoted half a much time to the really important areas of the circuit, like clock distribution, as you do to the choice of 100nf bypass capacitors.
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Old 1st May 2016, 08:27 PM   #6
eduard is offline eduard  Netherlands
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Hello,
I know nothing about clocks, will do that in a future life because right now running out of time. Greetings, Eduard
Ps also need time to read my books, listen music and earn a living
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Old 2nd May 2016, 08:15 PM   #7
eduard is offline eduard  Netherlands
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Hello,
Did so some metal work in order to mount the boards. I remember someone asking about the nylon washers included in the new updated kit.
When your soldering height is just a bit higher than average you might need the extra heigth of the washer to prevent the cut of wires touching the same cap on the board underneath.
Usually i will solder and after that cut the excess wire maybe you should cut them before soldering. Once there is solder it is rather difficult to cut the wires REALLY short.
This is tricky business.
Greetings, Eduard
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Old 3rd May 2016, 11:11 PM   #8
eduard is offline eduard  Netherlands
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Hello,
Did make some extra metalwork to mount the circuits in my mainframe.
Not sure if I will use the led part of the mother board anyway I will have to move it to the front panel to be useful.
Did make a metal plate with the pattern for mounting the motherboard or the little board and did copy and paste ( long live cad/cam manufacturing)that pattern on that plate so the position of the board can be moved around.
Don't know where I will put the Sowters, probably on the side using the hole pattern also used for the cover plates of the rectangular holes. If the wires are about 20 centimeters I can use the 2 supports I already made. If they are not must make another support . We will see.
Greetings, eduard
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Old 5th May 2016, 04:32 PM   #9
eduard is offline eduard  Netherlands
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Hello,
Did put most of the parts on the circuit. Things fit well into the mainframe.
Made a small piece of aluminium attached with the holes originally intended for mounting the motherboard in a chassis. This aluminium piece can support one or two caps so they will be really close to the 12 volt input.
The LCLC power supply will be were the chokes are now.
Chokes and circuit boards can be moved around because I did "" copy and paste "" their mounting pattern.
The piece of metal with the 2 oval holes is used to mount the Sowter outputs from Doede. This piece is mounted with the same holes as the rectangular plates that cover the holes in the two sides.
If I decide to add extra boards the Sowter mounting panel can be moved further away.
Greetings, Eduard
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Old 6th May 2016, 11:37 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eduard View Post
Hello,
Did start with my boards. Using an old mirror I managed to get from 4 to 8. Greetings, eduard
why do you need two main boards?
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