calm down. The isolation explanation is to address out what vacuphile questioning on the previous post.
No probs!
Just vacuphile opinion exactly conforms with mine and i would appreciate any oscilloscope measurements on particular device (intermodulation distortion). I think everyone would be delighted to know about.hi
im seriously looking at this unit in this thread and was wondering if someone can confirm if it will play 352khz files or if its limited to 192khz?
als im using a smsl m8 sabre 9018 dac at the moment and wondered if anyone had any idea how the sound of this unit would compare to the sabre dac....i know its a apple and oranges kinda thing,but one has to ask,doesnt one
many thanks
im seriously looking at this unit in this thread and was wondering if someone can confirm if it will play 352khz files or if its limited to 192khz?
als im using a smsl m8 sabre 9018 dac at the moment and wondered if anyone had any idea how the sound of this unit would compare to the sabre dac....i know its a apple and oranges kinda thing,but one has to ask,doesnt one
many thanks
I am also wondering if anyone had experience with 352 kHz or 386 KHz? As far as I know free drivers for AK4490 supports only 192 khz.
Well, it is hard to compare dac’s chip alone, without taking into consideration schematics that chip leans on and cost of components. In particular case this AK4490-based dac completely corresponds to its price. Smsl m8 is 4 times more expensive.
In addition, have to say that my second dac is es9018 device, and his superiority over cheap AK4490 is not related only to 352 kHz 192 khz sampling frequency. Foobar2000 perfectly does down and oversampling.
Well, it is hard to compare dac’s chip alone, without taking into consideration schematics that chip leans on and cost of components. In particular case this AK4490-based dac completely corresponds to its price. Smsl m8 is 4 times more expensive.
In addition, have to say that my second dac is es9018 device, and his superiority over cheap AK4490 is not related only to 352 kHz 192 khz sampling frequency. Foobar2000 perfectly does down and oversampling.
hi intergrin
i have a smsl m8 and jriver so ive been listening to 384khz,dsd 1 and 2x.
dsd i can take or leave but im quite taken with the upsampling,so for the money i was looking at this dac to compare to the m8 sabre dac and hear which one i preferred as i had a ak dac afew years ago and enjoyed it,it would of been nice to compare the two at the higher sampling,but im with you in thinking that its only good to 192k,bit of a lost asset there as the usb and dac can do both!!
i have a smsl m8 and jriver so ive been listening to 384khz,dsd 1 and 2x.
dsd i can take or leave but im quite taken with the upsampling,so for the money i was looking at this dac to compare to the m8 sabre dac and hear which one i preferred as i had a ak dac afew years ago and enjoyed it,it would of been nice to compare the two at the higher sampling,but im with you in thinking that its only good to 192k,bit of a lost asset there as the usb and dac can do both!!
hi
cant give any infomation regarding the headphone jack as i never use headphones,infact ive desoldered the thing from the board to free up some space for larger caps that im fitting in.
i can confirm that it accepts and plays 382k up-sampled files,of course i have no way of knowing if its being down sampled by the dac once it recieves it....but hey,it all sounds awesome to me....everything is awesome
cant give any infomation regarding the headphone jack as i never use headphones,infact ive desoldered the thing from the board to free up some space for larger caps that im fitting in
.i can confirm that it accepts and plays 382k up-sampled files,of course i have no way of knowing if its being down sampled by the dac once it recieves it....but hey,it all sounds awesome to me....everything is awesome
I found the stock 5532 to have lower distortion than either 4562 or 2134 (measured).
I agree, the soldering work is kinda horrible from the Chinese factory or even individual seller who make it from the kit before ship, they don't test the unit or test from low sample rate source.
It play 384k sample rate, confirmed.
If you play to studio monitor speakers from line-out, no need to play around with different op-amps, that makes no difference.
Different op-amps swapable does work, I changed to ad927 and it taste more classic which I like, ordered some new high-end amps, on the road, will say stay with line-out is a much better idea。
Will play with ak4490 jumpers (filters and dad mode) and let u know.
Headset volume can be control from computer, either j-river/foobar or sound device. If I ever get 4490dsd mode works then sound device volume control suppose to be malfunctioning, more later
It play 384k sample rate, confirmed.
If you play to studio monitor speakers from line-out, no need to play around with different op-amps, that makes no difference.
Different op-amps swapable does work, I changed to ad927 and it taste more classic which I like, ordered some new high-end amps, on the road, will say stay with line-out is a much better idea。
Will play with ak4490 jumpers (filters and dad mode) and let u know.
Headset volume can be control from computer, either j-river/foobar or sound device. If I ever get 4490dsd mode works then sound device volume control suppose to be malfunctioning, more later
I was looking at the picture of the board on the first page, it looks like the digital supply has a pair of through holes just upstream of the ceramic decoupling. I'll bet an oscon cap would go well there, with the ceramic cap removed.
That and the lpf caps around the op amp replaced with some film/foil types. I have done that on another DAC that had the exact same caps to a great benefit to the sound. On that board they are 4 X 100pf, and 2 X 390pf.
I'm pretty sure this is the same dac I recommended to my father, will have to show him this thread...
That and the lpf caps around the op amp replaced with some film/foil types. I have done that on another DAC that had the exact same caps to a great benefit to the sound. On that board they are 4 X 100pf, and 2 X 390pf.
I'm pretty sure this is the same dac I recommended to my father, will have to show him this thread...
Also my dac (XMOS U8 + 4490eq) went malfunctioning constantly after 10-20 mins playing, sound output just stopped after a click sound and foobar stopped as well (stuck), replaced the power regulator LM7805 and 7905 also added a heatsink doesn't really help and make sure it properly grounded with the metal cover.
After unplug the power and USB cord it will resume that will be the only solution.
Don't think it is a power problem since power output and amp section still functioning alright, no clue! seller can be provide a schematic or PCB drawing
Any idea or suggestion?
After unplug the power and USB cord it will resume that will be the only solution.
Don't think it is a power problem since power output and amp section still functioning alright, no clue! seller can be provide a schematic or PCB drawing
Any idea or suggestion?
I just got one and was comparing it to the image on the first page of the thread. Looks like pretty much the same PCB but the capacitors are definitely different (I especially don't have the two blue 25v 220uF "full-metal" capacitors next to the 7805's but they look like all the rest, with the plastic cover and the cross on top)
However, compared to 24century, I cannot see a 7905 on my board, there are two 7805's there and even the silk screen says that. If I can see correctly also the photo on the first page seems to have two 7805's.
Have you tried other power supply? I had experienced buzzing before purchased other stabilized power supply.
crackling and possible upcoming heat issues
The headphone connector on mine was a little broken (improper contact somewhere, at least when using QC25, with a trrs plug) and I had mine waiting for a while. Strangely enough I cannot replicate the issues with the headphones I'm now planning to use with this (DT 770, 250ohm).
When I plugged the DAC in again I noticed it has started crackling (first tries were fine). If there is no sound played it is all fine and all quiet, but actual sounds played are full of crackling.
This happened on both Windows (desktop, with drivers installed from included CD) and Mac (laptop, battery powered, OS provided drivers) and with the included power supply (2S Li-Ion battery charger!), a separate 12V SMPS and 12V battery.
Finally I replaced the USB cable which came with the device with a known good cable and the crackling is gone. What makes this a bit strange is that I'm pretty sure I used the same cable previously and then it was fine... When searching for possible solutions it looked like some other people had similar issues, perhaps someone else will find this information...
However, the linear regulators seem to run very hot. After a few minutes I can't keep my finger on them for many seconds, even when I play at quite low volume and the PCB is not inside the aluminium case.
There is no proper air circulation inside the case and I fear the regulator are going to get too hot. Attaching heatsinks to them and running the PCB outside the box isn't hopefully the only solution.
As the PCB slides into the case bolting them to the aluminum case isn't trivial. I was wondering if anyone has tried using some kind of thermal conduit, e.g. a piece of aluminium sheet (0.8mm or so, not Al foil) to conduct some of the heat to the case in a similar situation. Or if there are any better ideas among you?
The metallic tabs on the regulator (TO220) are connected to ground. I guess it should be ok to have them electrically connected to the case (and to each other), which may also connect to the USB sleeve, the headphone connector sleeve etc(?).
The headphone connector on mine was a little broken (improper contact somewhere, at least when using QC25, with a trrs plug) and I had mine waiting for a while. Strangely enough I cannot replicate the issues with the headphones I'm now planning to use with this (DT 770, 250ohm).
When I plugged the DAC in again I noticed it has started crackling (first tries were fine). If there is no sound played it is all fine and all quiet, but actual sounds played are full of crackling.
This happened on both Windows (desktop, with drivers installed from included CD) and Mac (laptop, battery powered, OS provided drivers) and with the included power supply (2S Li-Ion battery charger!), a separate 12V SMPS and 12V battery.
Finally I replaced the USB cable which came with the device with a known good cable and the crackling is gone. What makes this a bit strange is that I'm pretty sure I used the same cable previously and then it was fine... When searching for possible solutions it looked like some other people had similar issues, perhaps someone else will find this information...
However, the linear regulators seem to run very hot. After a few minutes I can't keep my finger on them for many seconds, even when I play at quite low volume and the PCB is not inside the aluminium case.
There is no proper air circulation inside the case and I fear the regulator are going to get too hot. Attaching heatsinks to them and running the PCB outside the box isn't hopefully the only solution.
As the PCB slides into the case bolting them to the aluminum case isn't trivial. I was wondering if anyone has tried using some kind of thermal conduit, e.g. a piece of aluminium sheet (0.8mm or so, not Al foil) to conduct some of the heat to the case in a similar situation. Or if there are any better ideas among you?
The metallic tabs on the regulator (TO220) are connected to ground. I guess it should be ok to have them electrically connected to the case (and to each other), which may also connect to the USB sleeve, the headphone connector sleeve etc(?).
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