Hi everybody, i'm new to the forum. I'm searching a simple and chip way to built a toslink switch with 2 or 3 input leading to 1 output. The main feature is that it has to be completely automatic (signal sensing), in order to switch automatically on the active connector.
I see different project here but they all need a remote or slide selector. Any idea?
Thanks!
I see different project here but they all need a remote or slide selector. Any idea?
Thanks!
Might be worth a try,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/157831-optical-splitter-used-combiner.html
If it didn't work the way you wanted then switching off one source would allow the other through.
To do it via signal sensing of the optical signal would be very complex
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/157831-optical-splitter-used-combiner.html
If it didn't work the way you wanted then switching off one source would allow the other through.
To do it via signal sensing of the optical signal would be very complex
I used this trick a month ago and for an unknown reason damaged torx193, maybe it was casual but made me think...
A friend noticed me the Audio Authority 1177 that is exactly what i'm searchig for, but it costs a lot plus shipping and import duties for Italy.
I'd like a diy solution also because need 3 switchers for 3 different audio systems.
Interesting idea. Some TOSLINK outputs are always active (lit), even when the device is in standby. You would have to try it all and see.
Good idea, i have available a totx193 for measurement.
Today a friend give me an idea: connecting 2 or 3 receivers directly to a transmitter and insert 3 small diod (1N4148) between receivers and transmitter, by this way when a receiver in ON the signal goes only to the transmitter and can't go back to others receivers. The only problem can be a simultaneous signal on the receivers.
Today a friend give me an idea: connecting 2 or 3 receivers directly to a transmitter and insert 3 small diod (1N4148) between receivers and transmitter, by this way when a receiver in ON the signal goes only to the transmitter and can't go back to others receivers. The only problem can be a simultaneous signal on the receivers.
My next project will be an 8-1 Toslink switch that uses WM8805 as SPDIF tranceiver and jitter cleaner. It will rotate the input when WM8805 loses lock to an input signal, and stop rotation as soon as next signal lock-on is present. By leaving the wanted digital feed on and turning off all others the switch will select the one in need. However, as Mooly has mentioned, because quite some devices are designed to have their digital output in power-on status and putting out valid stream of digital silence that a digital receiver can lock on to, I'll probably still need to design a remote to manually control the switch operation.
Like this,
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Nothing really rolling yet except I have had a couple WM8805 chips, all the Toslink receivers and transmitters, and a Cypress PSoC micro in hand. Will start working on it when I have finished my 2 power amps.
Not understanding how you select an input with diodes, by OR-ing probably? These Toslink receivers usually does not stay absolutely quiet when a feed is gone, possibly interfering your working channel through the OR-ing diodes. Perhaps using NAND gates or other gate controls would be a more secure method? There might/might not be another concern with direct O-E-O, that is an increased jitter. And that was primarily why I'd use a WM8805 in my project.
You're perfectly right! My idea is very very poor, there is no automatic selection, it's all based on switching on and off the toslink sources.
Your project is exactly what i'd like to do but i have not the ability and knowledge to use the wm8805. I tryed to read and understand the dstasheet but wasn't able! My brain started to go overtemp at the second page. I'm good in assembly and wiring the pcbs but not in project such a circuit!
I hope you can help me in the future when you decide to start up with this fantastic project!
Your project is exactly what i'd like to do but i have not the ability and knowledge to use the wm8805. I tryed to read and understand the dstasheet but wasn't able! My brain started to go overtemp at the second page. I'm good in assembly and wiring the pcbs but not in project such a circuit!
I hope you can help me in the future when you decide to start up with this fantastic project!
I read the datasheet trying to understand something more, does the wm8805 need an external microcontroller to work in auto mode?
For auto mode i mean the possibility of auto-select the right toslink source, without a remote control.
Secondly I saw that on the datasheet all the example circuits use coaxial digital signal, does it need a toslink-to-coaxial converter in order to accept toslink signal?
It's possible to use the receiver to select modes, but i've thought about a stand-alone auto-sensing switch too, and it seems to me one could imagine a dirty hack consisting of a mechanism to count the number of times the signal goes low then high again in a given time frame, and if above a certain amount we consider that signal active. First we need a way to select which input to let through, but i've seen this posted here before using multiplexers.
It might be as easy as a 4 bit counter per input periodically reset by a 555 timer, and we sense when the counter reaches binary 1000 or overloads, and we use that signal to determine if we want to switch source or not. We could add some logic here i believe to only switch source if the one we're playing actually stopped.
Of course this would require sources in pause/stop etc to actually not transmit any bits, and i'm not sure about this part yet.
It might be as easy as a 4 bit counter per input periodically reset by a 555 timer, and we sense when the counter reaches binary 1000 or overloads, and we use that signal to determine if we want to switch source or not. We could add some logic here i believe to only switch source if the one we're playing actually stopped.
Of course this would require sources in pause/stop etc to actually not transmit any bits, and i'm not sure about this part yet.
WM8805 does not select an input by itself. It can work without a micro controller, which is called "hardware mode" in the datasheet. WM8805 can put out the lock-on status which means a data stream is present or not, either to a GPIO pin as a logic level, or in case of "software mode" on certain bit of a certain internal control register. It is base on the lock-on status that external controls operates the input selection.
If my memory serves WM8805 has only one of the SPDIF inputs available in hardware mode, while all 8 are accessible with software mode. With a micro controller I would not only rotate the WM8805 input channels at loss of signal, but also power down the un-used Toslink receivers just to keep the noise down and power consumption low.
I think a micro controller is not necessary but highly useful for such a switch. As many digital sources do not turn off their digital output in standby mode, our switch will treat such a source as a valid data stream and stop at them. A manual control by a remote will most likely be in demand. A micro controller also simplifies control logic designs, it helps in possibility of a nice display as well.
Ok so we need a micro controller to get the best from wm8805 using it in software mode. Do you think an arduino can control the wm8805?
I'd like to avoid the remote and set the switch in automatic mode just in order to simplify the use of switch by "common people". One of those switches will be mounted on a system settled in a party hall, here there is lot of different people who play music from 3 different sources, all linked to the same amplifier. Till now we used a mechanical switch but there are always problems with it.
The display is a great idea, it can show what source is active at the moment.
I'd like to avoid the remote and set the switch in automatic mode just in order to simplify the use of switch by "common people". One of those switches will be mounted on a system settled in a party hall, here there is lot of different people who play music from 3 different sources, all linked to the same amplifier. Till now we used a mechanical switch but there are always problems with it.
The display is a great idea, it can show what source is active at the moment.
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