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Old 22nd November 2013, 03:19 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atupi View Post
My choice is always isopropyl alcohol and a soft toothbrush.
Hi I use the same. Please note that you need 99.8 % pure isopropyl alcohol and certainly no mixture with water. If you have that variant the solder joints will oxidize. A smooth brush will help and cotton tabs are nice too. Take care to avoid ESD buildup. The least you can do is to touch central heating (which is connected to PE) to drain the ESD. Read as: better than nothing.

There are also special PCB cleaning spray cans but most of the modern ones are water based for environmental reasons and of course the new lead free solders. I can not advise on that as I use lead containing solders. Bought a box with the old solvent based cans when they were on the point of being banished. Good stuff.


If you use a soft toothbrush please use a new one special for the PCB cleaning task and don't brush your teeth with it. I suddenly recall brushing my teeth with my daughters new tooth paste. I told here that I liked Paradontax better and she replied that I probably had used her new hair gel (which appeared to be true)
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Last edited by jean-paul; 22nd November 2013 at 03:21 PM.
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Old 22nd November 2013, 04:16 PM   #22
pchw is offline pchw  United States
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Ha ha, that's a good story, JP :-)
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Old 22nd November 2013, 04:22 PM   #23
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Hey, I did notice that it tasted peculiar !
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Old 24th November 2013, 09:37 AM   #24
Stixx is offline Stixx  Germany
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yummy
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Old 24th November 2013, 12:23 PM   #25
Neville is offline Neville  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atupi View Post
My choice is always isopropyl alcohol and a soft toothbrush.
Thx atupi
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Old 24th November 2013, 12:26 PM   #26
Neville is offline Neville  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jean-paul View Post
Hi I use the same. Please note that you need 99.8 % pure isopropyl alcohol and certainly no mixture with water. If you have that variant the solder joints will oxidize. A smooth brush will help and cotton tabs are nice too. Take care to avoid ESD buildup. The least you can do is to touch central heating (which is connected to PE) to drain the ESD. Read as: better than nothing.

There are also special PCB cleaning spray cans but most of the modern ones are water based for environmental reasons and of course the new lead free solders. I can not advise on that as I use lead containing solders. Bought a box with the old solvent based cans when they were on the point of being banished. Good stuff.


If you use a soft toothbrush please use a new one special for the PCB cleaning task and don't brush your teeth with it. I suddenly recall brushing my teeth with my daughters new tooth paste. I told here that I liked Paradontax better and she replied that I probably had used her new hair gel (which appeared to be true)
lol too funny...but thanks for tips....appreciated.

was hoping to finish up but some how I either lost or misplaced C4 on DAC pcb...will need to wait on another order next week

oh here is something I am embarrased about - was working on one of the parts and somehow it left my tweasers and bounced off the pcb and on to the floor. i did feel it bounce off my ankle but could not find it.
After mush searching with magnifying glass ( i felt like the father in "Honey I shrunk the kids" looking for his kids in th eback yard) I decided to look in my slipper...lo and behold the tiny resister was in my slipper

So make sure you working away from the edge BCMbob had a similar issue but did not involve slippers

Last edited by Neville; 24th November 2013 at 12:29 PM.
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Old 24th November 2013, 02:32 PM   #27
GaryB is offline GaryB  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neville View Post
was hoping to finish up but some how I either lost or misplaced C4 on DAC pcb...will need to wait on another order next week
If you're in hurry to try it out, you can go over to Radio Shack and buy a 0.1uf capacitor for C4. I checked online and they have a few that could work while you're waiting for the BOM part to arrive. RS # 272-1069 is a 0.1uf 50v part that their website shows as being in stock at my local store. That's a polyester cap. They also have RS # 272-135 in stock, which is a 0.1uf 50v ceramic cap. These are both leaded parts, not SMD but they would work. They're a bit expensive at $2 - $2.49 for two caps but they do give immediate gratification.

---Gary
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Old 24th November 2013, 03:25 PM   #28
jerry g is offline jerry g  Uzbekistan
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My humble suggestion for smd soldering is to set up a soldering station inside of a box, to limit the spread and loss of launched parts.
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Old 24th November 2013, 04:11 PM   #29
Neville is offline Neville  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryB View Post
If you're in hurry to try it out, you can go over to Radio Shack and buy a 0.1uf capacitor for C4. I checked online and they have a few that could work while you're waiting for the BOM part to arrive. RS # 272-1069 is a 0.1uf 50v part that their website shows as being in stock at my local store. That's a polyester cap. They also have RS # 272-135 in stock, which is a 0.1uf 50v ceramic cap. These are both leaded parts, not SMD but they would work. They're a bit expensive at $2 - $2.49 for two caps but they do give immediate gratification.

---Gary
Excellent...thx so much... I will bite bullet and pay $2just to complete.
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Old 3rd December 2013, 12:32 PM   #30
Eldam is offline Eldam  France
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Originally Posted by jean-paul View Post
Don't know what you exactly mean but you can put a jumper wire for the input cap if your source has a cap in the output. I suppose you mean the CS8416 chip ?
Hi J-P,

Yes this is it, sorry for my bad english...

I remove on a chinese DAC the spidf transformer input & in another the imput cap... incredible differences : two caps are too much you right. My squeezbox duet has already a cap with its SPDIF out ! Thank you for your answer.

I succeed my first SMD soldering yesterday with the dac & reciever chips with the good advises of this thread and the other one.

Didn't see the problems of BOM and the problem of some polarized smd caps but see it before assembling them... . So thank you for the alert !

JP, Did you finally try the SEPC/SEPF/Polymer etc ? Still prefer the electrolyt aluminium drop vs the 200 or more polymer for the DAC chip ?

Anybody here with 2 PCB tried yhe 2 solutions ?
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