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Old 3rd November 2013, 03:52 PM   #11
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Hi I have used silver bearing solder and still have such in stock. It is mechanically stronger than normal 60/40 tin lead solder. However I think it does not make much difference in sound quality (although I tricked myself long ago in believing that). I would like to advise to use good 60/40 solder that flows nicely like Alpha Metals Fluitin. The copper containing (Sn60/Pb38/Cu2) version is very good quality. I think it is called Fluitin 1535.

There are few solders that flow very good and that apparently rare quality is just what we need on a gold plated PCB !
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Old 3rd November 2013, 04:18 PM   #12
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88.6%Sn/1.8%Cu/9.5%Ag/0.1%Au - is what my 1mm solder is (from Partsconexxion). I bought one of those 1000 resistor/1000 capacitor packages on ebay a few years ago. Think I should just take the time to practice with some of those, and file one of my tips to something that works. I'll report back. I had it down pretty good on the MR-FE amps.
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Old 3rd November 2013, 05:05 PM   #13
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Filing off metal plated solder tips is a recipe for disaster. Just obtain a smaller tip. The iron coating of a tip has a function. You are not using a transformer type soldering gun with plain copper tip are you ?

BTW you use the lead free solder variant that we warned for several times. This DAC is best soldered with plain old lead containing solder like the Sn60/Pb40 standard solder everybody used in a time when only one solder existed for electronics: 60/40
You will never get nice looking and reliable joints with the solder you use now.
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Old 3rd November 2013, 05:24 PM   #14
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O.K. - Now you have me thoroughly confused. I'm going to a quiet room, rub my forehead a little and take a nap.

later............
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Old 3rd November 2013, 05:27 PM   #15
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OK when you come back please tell what the confusing part was.
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Old 3rd November 2013, 05:53 PM   #16
bcmbob is offline bcmbob  United States
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It's probably just me. From other threads where the topic came up most folks recommended the addition of either silver and/or gold as an enhancement to the flow and stability for audio use. It admittedly approaches an "Angles on the head of a pin" type discussion at times, but I have been following that advice on several thru-hole projects.

No desire on my part to dispute what's best on this project as you are it's designer - and particularly with the high SMD parts count. I'll be more than happy to take your lead - even if that means holding off a few days to get the right stuff.
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Old 3rd November 2013, 06:00 PM   #17
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Aha, I get it. Feel free to use audiophile solder if you like. I doubt it makes much difference with SMD parts as they often make direct contact with PCB tracks when manually soldered. Hey I just want anyone building the V3 to have it look good and perform good if not excellent AND being reliable. While you use audiophile lead free solder I doubt the quality of the "cold joints" I saw on the pics. My guess is that 60/40 would have made better joints but we've entered religious grounds with many guys sharpening their knives now.

That we designed this DAC says nothing about our competence in soldering or what's best !

Secret message : ! egabrag si redlos eerf deal
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Old 3rd November 2013, 06:13 PM   #18
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Man!! You got to give me a hint -at least what that language is.

Google Translate doesn't even get me close: "egabrag si redlos eerf deal"
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Old 3rd November 2013, 06:18 PM   #19
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I use this ancient encrypted language since I learnt the NSA/GCHQ checks our stuff in Europe. Till now they haven't broken the code ! It was a tip from Snowden. He said the tricky part is when there are wives/girl friends with mirrors around.

Wait a moment, maybe I know now why my PCBs are held at the german customs. Spooky stuff.
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Old 3rd November 2013, 06:21 PM   #20
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