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Old 26th November 2013, 06:41 AM   #131
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Old 5th December 2013, 02:40 PM   #132
Eldam is offline Eldam  France
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atupi View Post
You are right, i can see now C7 is marked backwards. I had a look on my DAC in the next second but this issue is not applicable to the people who choose to install the alternate parts wich are ceramic non polar caps.
I build 3 dacs and no problems with regs. I would say a visual inspection with a min x magnifier lens is mandatory and use solder wick to take out the excessive solder.
The + is the marked line on the caps (the opposite of the big alum caps which the mark is the negativ) ?
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Old 5th December 2013, 03:14 PM   #133
GaryB is offline GaryB  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eldam View Post
The + is the marked line on the caps (the opposite of the big alum caps which the mark is the negativ) ?
Yes - on the tantalum SMD capacitors, the bar represents the + side of the capacitor.

JP - I have a question for you. I was looking at the BOM and noticed that in the comments for C34 it says "either C31 or C34". Am I correct in thinking that you mean we should use either C31 or C34 but not both?

Thanks,
---Gary
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Old 5th December 2013, 04:03 PM   #134
Eldam is offline Eldam  France
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atupi View Post
Small advice after soldering 3 kits: do not solder L3,4,5,6 before first powering up. In this way you can check all four regs and voltages without damaging Receiver and dac chips.

Bob, i'm really interested about your impressions especially considering you are using the akm4396 dac also.
Think it's an excelent advise... I just sold the regulator,they are so small I can't check if the side with the three pads are proof each others of soldering material ! 5 i Think it's ok cause i use a lot o flux paste + few soldering material...)

Atupi, Did you put all the caps and the resistors without the L3/4/5/6; then use the powesupply and check with voltmeter ?

Gary, it's one or the other : read before of this thread or the other about the different caps and values and the sound about neg & wolfson.
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Old 5th December 2013, 04:28 PM   #135
Eldam is offline Eldam  France
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Gary,

erratum, my mistake : it's C32 or C35 i talk about (Elzheimer)

waiting JP for C31 or C34.

I think on the screenboard they are //. one is SMD1210 (C31), the other C32 can work with the same SMD121O or the other of the BOM (co603).
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Old 5th December 2013, 06:03 PM   #136
Eldam is offline Eldam  France
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Hi Jean-Paul,

Q1, Q2 REGS : pin 1 (on the midle of the 3 pins side) : I sold pin1 on the midlle but it is showed not wired on the shematic : DO I HAVE TO REMOVE IT ?

O ohms R smd at output of the dac : can I put a strap instead ? Is it for a futur set up (100 ohms non inductive i.e. ,) ?
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Old 6th December 2013, 06:52 AM   #137
atupi is offline atupi  Romania
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Hi Eldam,
yes soldered everything without L3,4,5,6. After all voltages checked soldered also the inductors.

Also you don't need to remove any pin of the regs even they are not connected in circuit.'

I believe you can put a strap instead of zero ohm resistors. I thonk that place was intended in case one would like to install some resistors with few tens of ohms.
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Old 6th December 2013, 06:39 PM   #138
Eldam is offline Eldam  France
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thank you Atupi,

I just wait for 2 components from Mouser to finish !

Do you know The soldering position of the PNP in the power Supply board and the 4 pad Fox Quartz in the DAC Board ?

My understanding with C34 & C31 is Either C31 or C34 not both ! Correct ?

Is Anybody benchmark the C22 caps (AVCC pin / 100 uF) with anothers caps and value like Gary ? Organic caps ? The red Panasonic ? The purple Sanyo SEPC/F ? A Nichicon Muse Z ?

My own test : I don't like Silmic here (near dac chips) to have tweak many cd players. I have Black Gate red BG NX (non polarized) 33 uF ...Worth a try ? i wait too for the own test between SLA alum vs Organic by Jean-Paul...

A last question : why a 100 NF MKT in Powersupply just after W01G and before L1 : in my mind it's just better here to allow the noise from supply and will be better without (already a 1 uf SMD film) ?! Am I Wrong or the test were better like that ?
Why a relative fast cap with C1 : is not better ti put here a normal 1000 uF 105° cap (with standard ESR) & stay with the faster Panasonic FC 2000 uf with C2 ? It's just a question about noise filtering, not a polemic.

Last edited by Eldam; 6th December 2013 at 06:48 PM.
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Old 6th December 2013, 07:10 PM   #139
pchw is offline pchw  United States
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I haven't soldered up the V3 board, but I did try the cap change per Gary suggested in the v2.6. FWIW, I played the dac, before and after the change, in a tube amp set up (full range speaker) and a Aleph set up (3 ways). I can tell you that the tonal does changed, but for better or for worse, it also depends on which set up I play. However, that's also based on my own preferences.

IMHO, there is only one way to find out - try it yourself, no one is likely to have the same setup as yours. Another subjective opinion, no cap change gave me the improvement from the Salas Shunt Power Supply.
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Old 7th December 2013, 04:18 PM   #140
Eldam is offline Eldam  France
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thanks,

houps : I just see that JP has already answered for the Q2 crystal in post 6 ! Sorry !
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