Here is the correct link to the HTC USB charger I have (actually have two). Looks pretty nice for a bit of consumer electronics, especially compared to the no-name chargers.
Test of HTC TC E250
Test/Review index of all tested usb chargers, any comments? | BudgetLightForum.com
Test of HTC TC E250
Test/Review index of all tested usb chargers, any comments? | BudgetLightForum.com
I've ordered a Schiit Modi 2 (non-Uber) from Amazon Warehouse deals for about $100 shipped. Should be great if it's basically new. Also placed an order for a highly discounted Denon DA-300USB dac, we'll see if that actually comes through. Still trying to get my hands on a couple of those usb y-cables at a reasonable price.
I've owned the Modi 2 Uber for some time. It's great value, and not too bad, even compared to the Gungnir Multibit I use on my main system.
Recently I got into modding the Modi just for kicks. Since the Uber model has no coupling caps, the only simple mods available to me were cap swaps, so I've changed the main supply cap to a larger Pana FC, and the 1000uF and 100uF near the 7906 regulator to the closest Pana FRs I had in stock.
The mods were done over several days, starting with the main supply cap. Changes in sound (by my ears) were increase in body, then increase in detail, and as I swapped the final caps the sound became calmer and more composed, without loss of detail. In fact the very top and bottom ends seem more extended.
I was rather surprised with the changes, as I've done many dac and amp tweaks, including building several dacs, amps and small class-D amps. I was not expecting this quantum of improvement. I've not tested the Modi + mods next to the Gumby, but some of the details I thought I only heard on the Gumby seem to be present now.
Recently I got into modding the Modi just for kicks. Since the Uber model has no coupling caps, the only simple mods available to me were cap swaps, so I've changed the main supply cap to a larger Pana FC, and the 1000uF and 100uF near the 7906 regulator to the closest Pana FRs I had in stock.
The mods were done over several days, starting with the main supply cap. Changes in sound (by my ears) were increase in body, then increase in detail, and as I swapped the final caps the sound became calmer and more composed, without loss of detail. In fact the very top and bottom ends seem more extended.
I was rather surprised with the changes, as I've done many dac and amp tweaks, including building several dacs, amps and small class-D amps. I was not expecting this quantum of improvement. I've not tested the Modi + mods next to the Gumby, but some of the details I thought I only heard on the Gumby seem to be present now.
If you do not want to void the guarantee, you can do as I did, cut open an usb cable, and do an RC filter there. I used 0.33ohms serial and added 4000uF electrolytic caps + ~15uF film cap (after the resistor). This was just me fooling around with some spare components I have, and the mod gives a small improvement in bass and high frequency noise (not really worth it). This is a smaller improvement compared to the change of USB power supply (best one I found was the Apple 5V 1A, worst was the 5V 3A from rasberry3).
I think improvement will be less obvious than if you d change caps directly in the DAC, as they have a more direct link to components.
If there is a regulator inside, it then makes a lot of sense to focus on the caps after the regulator.
I think improvement will be less obvious than if you d change caps directly in the DAC, as they have a more direct link to components.
If there is a regulator inside, it then makes a lot of sense to focus on the caps after the regulator.
I just did a simple yet extremely efficient mod on my Modi3: For less than 1 euro (I had remaining components from my previous Cambridge Audio 640C / 640A mod).
Components / Cost:
- 1x Elna Silmic II 16V/100uF - 0.6euros on mouser
- 1x Wima 250V/47nF MKP4 - 0.2euros on mouse
Improvements, ranked by importance:
Mids and Highs are more silky, less grainy than before. They retains their details even as low level, which was not the case before (I do not have to push volume anymore to hear all details).
The bass now go deeper, with less fuzz messing the low mids.
Stereo Imaging is more precise.
I am stunned with the results and wonder why this is not by default in every device.. From my experience all HiFi equipments benefit from Capacitors mod.
Below are some pictures of the mod:
Components / Cost:
- 1x Elna Silmic II 16V/100uF - 0.6euros on mouser
- 1x Wima 250V/47nF MKP4 - 0.2euros on mouse
Improvements, ranked by importance:
Mids and Highs are more silky, less grainy than before. They retains their details even as low level, which was not the case before (I do not have to push volume anymore to hear all details).
The bass now go deeper, with less fuzz messing the low mids.
Stereo Imaging is more precise.
I am stunned with the results and wonder why this is not by default in every device.. From my experience all HiFi equipments benefit from Capacitors mod.
Below are some pictures of the mod:
Indeed, I tried to solder the leads as close as possible to the IC, and soldered from the side. Below pictures shows the side view.
Now that's a bit quick and dirty. To do it properly, I d even shorten the Wima leads to the IC, and put the Elna Silmic II with longer leads on top of the Wima, and cut the extra unnecessary lead.
I noticed that there was no output caps on this Modi3, and other ICs have much smaller pin spacing. So not much to do appart from beefing the PSU at the moment.
I confirm that there is a noticeable improvement, as I tried removing those (easy for not risk-free if done too many times) and listen again.
Attachments
Yes its the audio output op amp.
Picture s a bit misleading. Both leads are directly soldered to the chip pins. This is a picture of the first rework. Since, i shortened the leads and cut unecessary tails. With a 250kS/s scope i did not see any issue on the Vcc+/-. It was actually cleaner with the mod.
Picture s a bit misleading. Both leads are directly soldered to the chip pins. This is a picture of the first rework. Since, i shortened the leads and cut unecessary tails. With a 250kS/s scope i did not see any issue on the Vcc+/-. It was actually cleaner with the mod.
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I may have missed the obvious but why didn't you solder those caps to the PCB bottom, directly at the IC pins? Safer and cleaner.
Jan
If you really feel like adding the output capacitors, you can desolder the RCA center pins and bend it over the board. Then use caps as bridges between the board and the bent pins.
I personally plan to use opa1612 instead so I probably will do fine without output caps.
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I have modded my Modi 3 as per your recommendation and absolutely agree with all of your mentioned improvements - sounds fantastic!!I just did a simple yet extremely efficient mod on my Modi3: For less than 1 euro (I had remaining components from my previous Cambridge Audio 640C / 640A mod).
Components / Cost:
- 1x Elna Silmic II 16V/100uF - 0.6euros on mouser
- 1x Wima 250V/47nF MKP4 - 0.2euros on mouse
Improvements, ranked by importance:
Mids and Highs are more silky, less grainy than before. They retains their details even as low level, which was not the case before (I do not have to push volume anymore to hear all details).
The bass now go deeper, with less fuzz messing the low mids.
Stereo Imaging is more precise.
I am stunned with the results and wonder why this is not by default in every device.. From my experience all HiFi equipments benefit from Capacitors mod.
Below are some pictures of the mod:
With the IC leads so small I didn't want to ruin it so I practiced on random chips/ICs from an old modem I pulled apart. When I finally did the operation, I applied masking tape to all of other pins to prevent the solder accidentally spilling over to the other pins.
Would you recommended any other mods to the Modi 3? Even if applied to the chips with the extremely small leads/pins. I realise they are very very small but I am confident with the masking tape technique could work.