Potato 74G14 vs Fairchild 74VHC14 - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 12th February 2013, 04:01 AM   #11
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Oh yeah, that's like Musiland saying they have -140dB .... and in small print... digital only.

Last edited by KlipschKid; 12th February 2013 at 04:03 AM.
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Old 12th February 2013, 04:02 AM   #12
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Ah, I see - makes sense if that's their SRC.
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Old 14th February 2013, 07:14 AM   #13
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Hi,

I emailed Potato about this. Goodness me they are helpful and fast. They said it is designed to drive without the RC filter, and wanted to know why I needed it and what values I'm using. Great help eh ?

cheers
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Old 14th February 2013, 07:19 AM   #14
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74??14 is inapropriate for low jitter clock distribution. Actually, it is really wrong.
It's better to go without 14s.
There are buffers and clock distributors for such task.
Schmitt inputs have their niche in digital, where jitter doesn't matters.
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Last edited by s3tup; 14th February 2013 at 07:42 AM.
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Old 14th February 2013, 07:27 AM   #15
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Yeah I agree - Schmitt triggers can only make things worse because of their built-in hysteresis. I recall Jocko Homo talking about this...
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Old 14th February 2013, 07:53 AM   #16
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Can the CCHD-957 drive three lines, each about 5cm-7cm, into an Altera Cyclone III fpga ? Too much pF right ?

If anyone knows a pin-for-pin replacement for the 74_14 that'll work better, please do tell.

However, a rant if I may : simply saying a buffer is better is not helpful. Yes, it is correct but I didn't ask for a lesson in design. I'm thoroughly fed up with people answering questions that didn't get asked.

You know what ? I think I'm really going to pull the plug on posting here. What's the point ?

Last edited by KlipschKid; 14th February 2013 at 08:13 AM.
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Old 14th February 2013, 07:57 AM   #17
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No, you need clock fanout or make the thing paralel terminated with single conductor going thu all of these pins and stuck in the terminating resistor, if you want it done propertly.
Otherwise - yes, it can, without any sort of termination etc. Actually you can save on the clock this way and use some of 0.5$ oscillators or SPDIF.
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Old 14th February 2013, 09:27 AM   #18
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Wrong:
___/-----------[ic pin1]
[R]------------[ic pin2]
___\-----------[ic pin3]

Semi-wrong:
/[R]-----------[ic pin1]
-[R]-----------[ic pin2]
\[R]-----------[ic pin3]

Fine:
/[buf]-[R]-----------[ic pin1]
-[buf]-[R]-----------[ic pin2]
\[buf]-[R]-----------[ic pin3]

Better:
[clock fanout]-[R]-----------[ic pin1]
[clock fanout]-[R]-----------[ic pin2]
[clock fanout]-[R]-----------[ic pin3]
^^^^^
[clock fanout in]


Okay:
[buf]-------------------[ic pin1]--------[ic pin2]------------------------[ic pin3]-[R]-[GND]
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Old 14th February 2013, 10:14 AM   #19
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Quote:
Advice: "an opinion or recommendation offered as a guide to action, conduct"

Help: "to give or provide what is necessary to accomplish a task or satisfy a need; contribute strength or means to"
No, i'm not going to do that for you. Do It Yourself (c).
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Old 14th February 2013, 10:16 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KlipschKid View Post
If anyone knows a pin-for-pin replacement for the 74_14 that'll work better, please do tell.
74_04 should do the trick - the same part but without the hysteresis.

Quote:
You know what ? I think I'm really going to pull the plug on posting here. What's the point ?
I advised against a part with hysteresis, seems I could have also advised against getting hysterical - I mean its just a hobby, what's the point?
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