Hi Farhun
I have not tried the ferrite beads on both negative and positive inputs of the IV opamps. I am not sure whether one on the positive input makes things better or worse. I am not sure whether the HF noise is common mode or not in which case filtering the 1/2 Avcc supply with the ferrite bead would be detrimental.
I have not used the CFB opamps in the balanced to single ended conversion position so can't say whether the opamp would be stable with the ferrite bead. I suspect that in this position, it would be better to fit ferrite beads in both inputs to keep the circuit symetrical.
Personally, I have gone from a valve output stage to SS. I don't think valves do justice to exceptional technical performance of this DAC chip. Mind you, the valve stage sounded very good too but not as good as say the LME49713 in the IV stage.(I only use balanced out) YMMV.
The last opamp stage is differential, it only makes sense beading the both inputs.
Then, for the other two opamps, using bead only on the signal input should be sufficient, the other is used for an offset voltage of half of Avcc and this offset is cancelled out in the differential stage.
It is logical to thing that an elegant opamp should integrate with an elegant DAC much better than a valve based system, first and the for most for the reason of slew rate! And low noise floor, 0.00...0x THD=N, etc.
Well, there are points on the board that you can tap to the raw voltage outputs of 9018 chip, that is where the elegant DAC's obligations end. This point on is another story. In my case, everything eventually turns into vacuum state since I use tube amps in the rest of the chain.
I believe a passive IV stage into an amp stage is an option.Worth to try it out. If anyone who has already done this is here now should share his experience.
Also, a transformer with two coils in each side, or center tap in each side can be employed here, and better to use 1:2 or higher step. A filter and impedance matching network may be needed too.
Then, for the other two opamps, using bead only on the signal input should be sufficient, the other is used for an offset voltage of half of Avcc and this offset is cancelled out in the differential stage.
It is logical to thing that an elegant opamp should integrate with an elegant DAC much better than a valve based system, first and the for most for the reason of slew rate! And low noise floor, 0.00...0x THD=N, etc.
Well, there are points on the board that you can tap to the raw voltage outputs of 9018 chip, that is where the elegant DAC's obligations end. This point on is another story. In my case, everything eventually turns into vacuum state since I use tube amps in the rest of the chain.
I believe a passive IV stage into an amp stage is an option.Worth to try it out. If anyone who has already done this is here now should share his experience.
Also, a transformer with two coils in each side, or center tap in each side can be employed here, and better to use 1:2 or higher step. A filter and impedance matching network may be needed too.
Well, couple of ferrite beads more to solder and I'm done with this sucker
Not so nice but..
One question, what transformers did you guys used and in what configuration? One for all or couple separated for each regs?
I'm thinking of two torodial, one with four secondaries for 2x 6V for 3,3V regs for ES9018 board, and maybe 2x 12V for regulators for other stuff like arduino (~8V) and SPDIF reciever (5.25V) and socond torodial for I/V stage regulator (12-0-12V).
Not so nice but..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
One question, what transformers did you guys used and in what configuration? One for all or couple separated for each regs?
I'm thinking of two torodial, one with four secondaries for 2x 6V for 3,3V regs for ES9018 board, and maybe 2x 12V for regulators for other stuff like arduino (~8V) and SPDIF reciever (5.25V) and socond torodial for I/V stage regulator (12-0-12V).
Well this is my version of this DAC, and I'am a bit scared to turn it on.
3 questions :
1 Is the crystal orientated in the right position?
2 The EN jumper on the other site of the crystal is the jumper ON internal clock and jumper OFF the external clock?
3 do you see anything obvious wrong with it?
imgur: the simple image sharer big
imgur: the simple image sharer big
3 questions :
1 Is the crystal orientated in the right position?
2 The EN jumper on the other site of the crystal is the jumper ON internal clock and jumper OFF the external clock?
3 do you see anything obvious wrong with it?
imgur: the simple image sharer big
imgur: the simple image sharer big
-I think crystal postition is OK. Dot is pin number one, you could also check datasheet to be shure.. You have also marked first pin on PCB.
-Jumper enables crystal that is on the board, mentioned in your first question, but if you want to use external clock source, lets say from amanero board, you can disable onboard clock by removing jumper.
-I think that you need to cut one trace (see spot printed on PCB) because you installed additional capacitor for AVCC_R and power connector, because you want to power analog parts of the chip separately, right?
-Jumper enables crystal that is on the board, mentioned in your first question, but if you want to use external clock source, lets say from amanero board, you can disable onboard clock by removing jumper.
-I think that you need to cut one trace (see spot printed on PCB) because you installed additional capacitor for AVCC_R and power connector, because you want to power analog parts of the chip separately, right?
First of all thank you for your response, not a lot a people here are willing to help a beginner.
Out of frustration that nobody responded to my question I turned it on, and no magic smoke, but music! for about 5 seconds then a big humm.There were 6 caps the wrong way around, I think for the negative power for the opamps. But is works and sounds wonderful. Sometimes it's almost scary how much detail there is now in 44Khz material.
The board works with or without the xtal jumper... don't know why. Is it getting the clock from the xmos usb to i2s board with the jumper off?
Yes I know I need to cute the trace but I was not ready for that, I first wanted a basic config that works. And Yes I have one power board for the 12v +/- 2x 3.3 for avcc L and avcc R. 1 board with 3,3 for the digital part and 1x 5v for the Xmos USB to I2S board.
The next thing would be to connect the arduino, but that's were I got stuck now.
This is what I get when I turn it on. I think that the deformed symbols are there because It does not communicate with the es9018 but I could be wrong...
The IR sensor works the volume go's up and down by remote so I think the code runs correctly
I have 3.3 and 5v on the level converter, the L side on the es9018 the H side on the controller but nothing. Tried it without the level converter same thing.
If I play with the adress jumper on one setting the arduino does not boot.
The es9018 mutes with the arduino connected.
Maybe I missed a setting in the arduino code?
Anyway thanks for your help, If you have any ideas let me know.
Out of frustration that nobody responded to my question I turned it on, and no magic smoke, but music! for about 5 seconds then a big humm.There were 6 caps the wrong way around, I think for the negative power for the opamps. But is works and sounds wonderful. Sometimes it's almost scary how much detail there is now in 44Khz material.
The board works with or without the xtal jumper... don't know why. Is it getting the clock from the xmos usb to i2s board with the jumper off?
Yes I know I need to cute the trace but I was not ready for that, I first wanted a basic config that works. And Yes I have one power board for the 12v +/- 2x 3.3 for avcc L and avcc R. 1 board with 3,3 for the digital part and 1x 5v for the Xmos USB to I2S board.
The next thing would be to connect the arduino, but that's were I got stuck now.
This is what I get when I turn it on. I think that the deformed symbols are there because It does not communicate with the es9018 but I could be wrong...
The IR sensor works the volume go's up and down by remote so I think the code runs correctly
I have 3.3 and 5v on the level converter, the L side on the es9018 the H side on the controller but nothing. Tried it without the level converter same thing.
If I play with the adress jumper on one setting the arduino does not boot.
The es9018 mutes with the arduino connected.
Maybe I missed a setting in the arduino code?
Anyway thanks for your help, If you have any ideas let me know.
Update :
There is communication between the es9018 and the aduino. When I turn the system on there is sound, but It mutes right after that aduino boots. Then nothing, if I use the reset jumper on the es9018 board sound returns and I get 44 Khz in the display, volume up and down also works. Still strange symbols on the display. Don't know whats going on..
There is communication between the es9018 and the aduino. When I turn the system on there is sound, but It mutes right after that aduino boots. Then nothing, if I use the reset jumper on the es9018 board sound returns and I get 44 Khz in the display, volume up and down also works. Still strange symbols on the display. Don't know whats going on..
I'am not much of a coder the last time I did that was just basic on the C64. I will get another one from ebay and hope it will fit.
Still the issue with no I2S communication until dac resets.
Tried shielded wires, No level converter, better ground from the arduino psu to the dac board. Still nothing
Still the issue with no I2S communication until dac resets.
Tried shielded wires, No level converter, better ground from the arduino psu to the dac board. Still nothing
The Display looks like a Winstar, or Newhaven OLED character display, with WS0010 driver chip.
This needs slightly different initialisation code, compared to the usual character LCDs. Yours has been set to use the English/Russian font table.
It is not too hard to do, but I don't have cut & paste Arduino code, sadly.
An LCD, rather than an OLED should work, but they don't look anything like as good.
This needs slightly different initialisation code, compared to the usual character LCDs. Yours has been set to use the English/Russian font table.
It is not too hard to do, but I don't have cut & paste Arduino code, sadly.
An LCD, rather than an OLED should work, but they don't look anything like as good.
Its a ABC020004B33-DIW-R-01 display, not oled but double FSTN Its a really nice display. But you are right I think about the font table. I found in some chinees spec sheets the therm RU/EN so..
LCD LED VFD TFT ARTRONIC S.J.
This is the datasheet.
LCD LED VFD TFT ARTRONIC S.J.
This is the datasheet.
The SPLC780 and the other S6A.... Samsung controller in there should work fine.
But, I looked at your photo again - it looks like pin 5 (R/W#) is open. Is that right? RW must be connected to pin 1 (GND) for the normal (WRITE-only) mode used with these.
Floating R/W# will give character errors, and unreliable operation.
But, I looked at your photo again - it looks like pin 5 (R/W#) is open. Is that right? RW must be connected to pin 1 (GND) for the normal (WRITE-only) mode used with these.
Floating R/W# will give character errors, and unreliable operation.
Pin 5 is connected on the other side of the pcb to ground it looked nicer that way.
I orderd a standard blue display on ebay with the SPLC780 controller. But If I don't get it to communicate with the es9018 the display is a bit useless :-(
I will check all the lcd wiring tonight one last time, but I doubt I made any mistakes there.
I orderd a standard blue display on ebay with the SPLC780 controller. But If I don't get it to communicate with the es9018 the display is a bit useless :-(
I will check all the lcd wiring tonight one last time, but I doubt I made any mistakes there.
I'm looking for correlations to the data as well.
You may want to try OPA2111KP, this has a settling time of 10,000 ns, I intend to include this chip in a personal blind test.
AD811 says 65 ns, are you aware of faster?
We need to start with the fastest and slowest audio chips and then slide them together until we can find the point at which the settling time or slew rate becomes invisible, in that specific test.
The speed and THD of your transducer will have an effect as well.
Titanium, Aluminium, Beryllium and bio-cellulose are all inclined to speed.
Sony EX1000 has low THD, I am not sure if Vectran is speedy or not.
You need to consider how chameleonic the speed is as well.
I suspect diamond will not change speed very much for instance, since it's too inert.
Take 7 second pauses in the A/B switch. Rewind the track to the start each time, don't switch while the track is playing.
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I recieved my new lcd panel and the symbols are ok now. I took a new arduino new display, new regulators and psu and tried again but still no communications between the dac and the arduino. Only after I reset the dac it starts to talk to the arduino and I can control volume and see sample rates etc.
Does anybody now how to contactmister HifiDuino, because I' am really out of options.
As for now I think it's save to say the diyinhk dac does not work with the hifiduino.
Does anybody now how to contactmister HifiDuino, because I' am really out of options.
As for now I think it's save to say the diyinhk dac does not work with the hifiduino.
Mmm thats interesting... Do you use a level converter? Is it a original arduino or a clone?
How do you power it using v-in or the 9v jack? what kind of cables do you use for I2C?
What is the revision of your Dac board? Did you modify anything in the code? normal stereo use uses a defauld settings right? Do you have any pictures of it?
Maybe my es9018 chip is not 100%?
There is one thing that buzzes true my head a the time. I use a separate transformer and en separate regulator to power the es9018 chip and controller, is that a problem? Also the new arduino boots way faster then the old one really strange... And it does communicate because it mutes the dac on power on, but after that no go.
Sorry so many questions.
http://imgur.com/QLOKh0z Hires adruino board
http://imgur.com/orF9B9M Hires level convertor
http://imgur.com/NQL4HiF Hires Dac board
How do you power it using v-in or the 9v jack? what kind of cables do you use for I2C?
What is the revision of your Dac board? Did you modify anything in the code? normal stereo use uses a defauld settings right? Do you have any pictures of it?
Maybe my es9018 chip is not 100%?
There is one thing that buzzes true my head a the time. I use a separate transformer and en separate regulator to power the es9018 chip and controller, is that a problem? Also the new arduino boots way faster then the old one really strange... And it does communicate because it mutes the dac on power on, but after that no go.
Sorry so many questions.
http://imgur.com/QLOKh0z Hires adruino board
http://imgur.com/orF9B9M Hires level convertor
http://imgur.com/NQL4HiF Hires Dac board
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