Build thread for Diyinhk ES9018 DAC on Ebay

Status
Not open for further replies.
no, I meant it was a fair statement to make (yours)

the promotion of commercial SAW based oppo mods in that and other oppo mod threads on this forum is a pet peeve of mine. Also when people make such mind bending claims alarm bells start ringing.

I like crystek yes, for the money I think they are one of the better parts around, but i'm about to upgrade to a module based on NDK $$$, because the next step up with high grade SC cut crystal plus highly accurate bespoke multiplier circuit, is just one step too far for me. there are bigger things to worry about.

so no I have no hidden agenda, but I do have an allergy to them.
 
nah, pretty happy with the sound, so i'm just finishing building another one the same. further clocking upgrades past the fifo/crystek level are intellectual/neurotic upgrades. It must be one of those stealthy anorexic elephants.... ive not noticed it in actuality over the last 3 years.
 
3 years with 9018/12, going back till 93 using AKM dacs, through Wolfson dacs, CS etc, but I had my mind firmly on the music and only on the music back then, playing with hobby production of it and just listening. going by your description I would have thought i'd have noticed an objectionable distortion by now dont you? sounds to me like an objective artifact you made audible ie psychosomatic
 
Delta-sigma DAC VS Test:D
reference condition:
Same I2S input,
Same headphone AMP, same headphone, same ear:D
Same power regulator
Same computer USB input
ES9018 VS PCM1794A VS AK4399
follow each offical datasheet demo IV LPF circuit
blind test,
only ear will told the best:)

p.s. the latest version ES9018 PCB with the latest es9018 chip seems have no unlock problem at default power on setting with asyn 100M clock with cm6631a, need to confirm with longer test time.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
Last edited:
I did a quick n nasty job for the I/V resistors, as I doubt it will make much difference. I cut the traces, dabbed in some paint to prevent accidental solder bridges, scraped off the screen, added some copper, soldered, painted, and fitted resistors.

Macro photos are very helpful - after taking this I can see I need to clean, smooth, etc....
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


And here, the same - needs cleaning 'cos of too much heat etc.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


I can definitely recommend the Tamron 60mm f/2 macro lens.
 
Another horror show

..and here's the Sigma11 + LT1084.

8413537444_99385819fd_z.jpg


The Sigma11 will only power the analogue DAC section where low output impedance is crucial.

The LT1084 is preceded by an RC filter = 15R 2W resistor (it'll get hot - I'll measure and check it's reasonable) and a 1500uF Rubycon MBZ 16V cap to give over -20dB ripple rejection and HF noise filtering. The LT1084 has a 1.5V or less dropout so even at max load, 15R will not drop too much voltage. It also helps to isolate the LT1084 from the Sigma11.

The LT1084 has two red leds at it's base and a 25uF tantalum cap. This lowers noise and gives a 5.25V output. There's a 220uF cap on the output to ensure stability and green led + 470R resistor to achieve a minimum load of 7mA.

The output is sent to two RC filters: both 2.2R 1W and Nichicon PL 820uF ultra low esr caps. One output is for the WM8805 @75mA and the other for the DAC's adp151 3.3V reg. So again, no problems with the RC filter dropping too much voltage. The 2.2R isolates the two supplies from each other a little, and also means the LT1084 doesn't see the ultra low esr on its output. And of course, it filters the output noise.

This supply is still low profile - the tallest point is the main filter cap - an Elna 3300uF - so height is 20mm. It should fit nicely under the DAC board.

So I'm ready to do a final test and then it's time to think about casing.... which may have to wait 14 weeks !

cheers

Tom
 
Last edited:
I did a quick n nasty job for the I/V resistors, as I doubt it will make much difference. I cut the traces, dabbed in some paint to prevent accidental solder bridges, scraped off the screen, added some copper, soldered, painted, and fitted resistors.

Macro photos are very helpful - after taking this I can see I need to clean, smooth, etc....
8413277942_d3f9fab0f7.jpg


And here, the same - needs cleaning 'cos of too much heat etc.

8412178807_8dd53b005e.jpg


I can definitely recommend the Tamron 60mm f/2 macro lens.

佩服!
 

Thank you, but honestly it looks a mess. However, functionally, it's 100% and that is what matters.

If anyone tries to do this, be very careful with the paint. I used a pin to dab spots of paint on and then spread them. Be careful not to get paint into any through-holes because solder needs to be able to flow freely through them when the resistors are soldered in.

Apart from that, and getting little bits of copper in place, it's easy enough.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.