Hi Chanh,
You have extended your title of "BIGGEST AND MOST ELABORATE DDDAC BUILD IN THE WORLD
" With your new PS!I think Doede must send you a nice prize cup for your efforts!
I use the rpi with ehternet data in (from NAS) and I2S out, so I the combined buss system does not bother me. I will experiment a bit with placing mpd in separate core and compare with rpi1. I have to make a new image of runeaudio for the rpi for this first.
I like the interface from MPAD, it is very responsive and works nice with local art library.
I also expect great results from the bbb/ hermes/ cronos. The first batch will be shipped by now so with a bit of luck..............
Regards,
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Chanh's abundance of cables
Hello Chanh,
First choke on the left input choke, the small bottle is the location for the caps, rectifier and bleeder. From the first choke there will be 2 output. One going to the lc network for the analogue shunt and one for the digital shunt. The transformer is right behind the vertical plane. The two chokes could change position depending on the shortest cables to the boards which will be in the front.
All caps will be mounted on the pertinax boards from the lundahls.
Will have to read some French articles about the optimum values of the caps related to the current drawn and the values of the chokes.
Greetings, Eduard
P.s If you can read french i can send the pdf files to you
Hello Chanh,
First choke on the left input choke, the small bottle is the location for the caps, rectifier and bleeder. From the first choke there will be 2 output. One going to the lc network for the analogue shunt and one for the digital shunt. The transformer is right behind the vertical plane. The two chokes could change position depending on the shortest cables to the boards which will be in the front.
All caps will be mounted on the pertinax boards from the lundahls.
Will have to read some French articles about the optimum values of the caps related to the current drawn and the values of the chokes.
Greetings, Eduard
P.s If you can read french i can send the pdf files to you
Attachments
Enlarging load resistor mounting holes - OK?
Dear All
I've now upgraded from the standard capacitors to the Cinemag output transformers and I like the change. More balanced overall, I think, and the slight harshness with some music that I noticed with the standard caps has gone, whilst still maintaining good levels of detail. This is with just 2 decks – I was a bit concerned that it wouldn't be enough to drive the Cinemags but, thanks to the reassurance of posters on here, I went for it, and I'm pleased I did.
For my next upgrade I am changing the load resistors for some Shinkoh 2W 68R. I have desoldered the standard resistors from the Ra positions, and am planning to mount the Shinkohs in Rb. However, I have hit a slight snag – the holes in the mainboard are not big enough for the thick leads on the 2W Shinkohs.
To solve this problem, I have started to enlarge the Rb holes manually (and carefully) with a 2mm drill bit, but I have a concern. If the mainboard is a multi-layer design, is there a danger that, with the enlarged holes, I could end up with the Shinkohs touching, or being soldered to, a layer that they shouldn't touch?
I know a few on here have replaced the load resistors, some with Shinkohs, some with other brands, so maybe someone can help, or maybe Doede, who knows the details of the mainboard construction, might know?
I would really like to know before I start the soldering!
Kind regards
- Garry
Dear All
I've now upgraded from the standard capacitors to the Cinemag output transformers and I like the change. More balanced overall, I think, and the slight harshness with some music that I noticed with the standard caps has gone, whilst still maintaining good levels of detail. This is with just 2 decks – I was a bit concerned that it wouldn't be enough to drive the Cinemags but, thanks to the reassurance of posters on here, I went for it, and I'm pleased I did.
For my next upgrade I am changing the load resistors for some Shinkoh 2W 68R. I have desoldered the standard resistors from the Ra positions, and am planning to mount the Shinkohs in Rb. However, I have hit a slight snag – the holes in the mainboard are not big enough for the thick leads on the 2W Shinkohs.
To solve this problem, I have started to enlarge the Rb holes manually (and carefully) with a 2mm drill bit, but I have a concern. If the mainboard is a multi-layer design, is there a danger that, with the enlarged holes, I could end up with the Shinkohs touching, or being soldered to, a layer that they shouldn't touch?
I know a few on here have replaced the load resistors, some with Shinkohs, some with other brands, so maybe someone can help, or maybe Doede, who knows the details of the mainboard construction, might know?
I would really like to know before I start the soldering!
Kind regards
- Garry
Hi Garry,
Assuming you have the blue board.
The resistor holes are through hole conductive from top to bottomside of the pcb. There are pcb traces from the bottomside that need to connect to the resistors. So the risk is the other way around: you can end up not connecting the resistors to the pcb paths that need to be connected.
There are no other traces in that area that are in danger.
So just take care that you solder the resistors on both sides to the pcb traces.
You are in for a treat with the tantalums!
Good luck!
Assuming you have the blue board.
The resistor holes are through hole conductive from top to bottomside of the pcb. There are pcb traces from the bottomside that need to connect to the resistors. So the risk is the other way around: you can end up not connecting the resistors to the pcb paths that need to be connected.
There are no other traces in that area that are in danger.
So just take care that you solder the resistors on both sides to the pcb traces.
You are in for a treat with the tantalums!
Good luck!
Attachments
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Hi Garry,
what I did was opposite operation which broth a success. I placed resistors with already trimmed to a proper lenght leads (straightened!) in the drill. And with sand paper sanded the leads to a tinner diameter so they can pass the holes. If you decide to do so, be very carefull to not to damage the resistors and tight them really gently, maybe wrap the resistors with some paper or more resistant thin material. And run the drill with medium to slow reps.
Good luck
Thanks!
Many thanks for the tip and reassurance Supersurfer! I will make sure I solder on both sides.
I like what you've done with your DDDAC - bet it sounds excellent.
Kind regards
- Garry
Many thanks for the tip and reassurance Supersurfer! I will make sure I solder on both sides.
I like what you've done with your DDDAC - bet it sounds excellent.
Kind regards
- Garry
Nice lateral thinking. Didn't think of that before I started with my drill bit. Although I have found the Shinkoh resistors a little delicate, so like you I advise caution if doing this. Last month I broke a 1W Shinkoh when I was bending the leads (obviously too roughly), and had to buy another. They are no longer made and all stock is quite old now, so maybe less robust than when new.
Kind regards
- Garry
There are also Audio Note Tantalums. Many thinks they are even better. But pricey.
Quick question about USB cables; I have disconnected the live wire, red, just one end which goes into my laptop and the laptop no longer sees the DAC, do I need to cut the red wire both ends or do I cut the black and the red. Thanks
I assume you are connecting to wave io. If you use external power supply on the wave io there is no need to disconnect the power wires in the usb cable. I remember doing the same when I just got my wave io and had the same issue. The pc is checking ( what they call handshake in usb protocol) what kind of usb component is connected and apparently uses the power cables for this.
Regards,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/224108-nos-192-24-dac-pcm1794-waveio-usb-input-427.html#post4260971
Sovereign1 read the follow up of my post there by G600 and a creator of the WaveIo Lorien and his take on it.
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DSD Sneak peek
Sneak preview. Just as a small teaser 😉
I just finished the DSD converter beta setup now. It is a version where you can select averaging of the DSD stream to decrease noise. It is selectable in 1, 2, 4 and 8 steps. It works very nicely and on the fly, so you hear immediately noise level coming down. I have not been able to do serous listening test, but that will come coming Saturday at Reinhard's place.... Now burn in and I still Need to make some power supplies (now using LAB Supply)
As soon as I know more, I will report back. No need to ask for PCBs as this will not be the final version.... sorry....Final ones for sure will have more functionality, like muting, DC servo and some other aspects I still think & work on.
But the concept technically works now. DSD conversion without any DAC Chips and super Sound (we know that from the Alpha Prototype 😀 )
Oh before I forget, totally stand alone working. No PCM Play back of course. I use the WaveIO with DSD Firmware.
Sneak preview. Just as a small teaser 😉
I just finished the DSD converter beta setup now. It is a version where you can select averaging of the DSD stream to decrease noise. It is selectable in 1, 2, 4 and 8 steps. It works very nicely and on the fly, so you hear immediately noise level coming down. I have not been able to do serous listening test, but that will come coming Saturday at Reinhard's place.... Now burn in and I still Need to make some power supplies (now using LAB Supply)
As soon as I know more, I will report back. No need to ask for PCBs as this will not be the final version.... sorry....Final ones for sure will have more functionality, like muting, DC servo and some other aspects I still think & work on.
But the concept technically works now. DSD conversion without any DAC Chips and super Sound (we know that from the Alpha Prototype 😀 )
Oh before I forget, totally stand alone working. No PCM Play back of course. I use the WaveIO with DSD Firmware.
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