Hifimediy ES9023+TE7022 24/96 USB Dac - Page 30 - diyAudio
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Old 4th April 2013, 06:37 PM   #291
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Cleaner PSU always helps. I would try a choke for the input V... maybe a reverse-biased diode in parallel with that for when it shuts down {V spike?}. Put a fuse somewhere...

I keep some later generation regulators around for fun:

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/294/NJM7800-196861.pdf

the NJM7805FA. Heatsink it well. You could also use a USB isolator. COnsider the HifiMEDIY UAE23+ model then, it would have built-in USB isolation {!!}, a nice metal case, a coaxial power plug, an internal regulator you could improve upon?? [I have not seen one up close, it probably has a TO220 regulator you could replace with the best you can find+heatsink] Room for this and that mod... like another regulator at 3.3V for a TCXO at 12.000Mhz.

FOX924B-12.000 Fox Electronics | 631-1068-1-ND | DigiKey

Micrel 5209

MIC5209-3.3YS TR Micrel Inc | 576-1274-1-ND | DigiKey

[it has a case style big enough to solder it without a PCB, low noise...]

You have tried the Nexus 7 with Tenor TE7022 USB receiver?? Or someone has?

I warn you, you might like the ES9023 DAC and want to split of the audio from THAT. If you didn't buy the 3sixty yet... I don't know what your musical tastes are. If I cared a lot about the sound in my VAN I would instantly think about planar-magnetic speakers, but I do not listen to say RAP or have need for dualing 15" woofers.. Neo8PDR Neo3PDR, something to fill in the bottom end... air-bags probably make mobile installs more interesting than when I was a car-stereo nut.

You COULD also add a 9V pre-regulator 12 {13.8} --> big choke/not too huge cap->9V-->5V {USB isolator in UAE23+}-->USB audio interface--> DAC or 3sixty->xovers/amps.
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Old 4th April 2013, 06:54 PM   #292
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OOOpz, my bad, if you use the 3sixty it may not have the coaxial SPDIF? The USE23 has the Toslink no USB isolation. Ahh, so the next mod would be adding Toslink OUT to UAE23+ {maybe a 3.5mm with optical behind it, like UAE23}
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Old 4th April 2013, 07:08 PM   #293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enjoybiking View Post
OOOpz, my bad, if you use the 3sixty it may not have the coaxial SPDIF? The USE23 has the Toslink no USB isolation. Ahh, so the next mod would be adding Toslink OUT to UAE23+ {maybe a 3.5mm with optical behind it, like UAE23}

The model UAE23 has toslink out build in, the 3sixty has toslink input, that would cover the isolation between Tablet-interface and the rest of the audio System.Do I still need to isolate the USB in this scenario? That's the part that fail to understand and I apologize for my limited knowledge about USBtoSPDIP problems.
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Old 4th April 2013, 07:31 PM   #294
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I am no expert either but I know that if you have any noise coupled via the USB that you CAN eliminate, it is good to do so. If you can keep processor etc noise from the tablet out/away from the USB receiver so much the better. In a normal DAC setting I2S is the way to go, vs SPDIF -- the funny thing is you might have a SPDIF to I2s conversion taking place in the 3sixty? IF that were the case just add USB-->I2S conversion to the 3sixty. Or does it have a USB audio port? [often lame 16/48 in consumer items]. Will ROckfordFosgate tech support TELL you if they do a Toslink to I2s conversion? If they DO... the feeding the Fosgate I2s or placing the USB-I2S receiver in the Fosgate would be best. MAYBE the DSP only knows how to read SPDIF directly. ALso, you probably CAN easily convert the Fosgate to take coaxial SPDIF from the UAE23+, then you could have USB isolation, lots of room to mod things... Or, again, add OPTICAL to UAE23+ well, or get a cheaper TE7022 to SPDIF assy. UAE23+ is a great buy considering the mod-potential and a case... and having such a nice DAC chip in there, AND a USB isolator.

I HAVE some 3meter optical USB isolators but you are not in USA.
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Old 4th April 2013, 07:48 PM   #295
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Thanks for your response. One thing that I learned about car audio manufacturers is that they are pretty secretive about the way their products work. They barely give you proper specs, mind you!
So asking Rockford, JBL or Alpine is not going to produce any sensible data that we could use.
Regarding your suggestion to add a Toslink to the UAE23, I think that could be made without a lot of work,and definitely is a good option but this time I'll try the cheaper interface and listen to the resultant audio quality (o lack of it).I will be a nice experiment. Definitely better that using my Pioneer stereo feeding the 3sixty.

Last edited by Ricren; 4th April 2013 at 07:57 PM.
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Old 4th April 2013, 07:54 PM   #296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enjoybiking View Post
Cleaner PSU always helps. I would try a choke for the input V... maybe a reverse-biased diode in parallel with that for when it shuts down {V spike?}
You COULD also add a 9V pre-regulator 12 {13.8} --> big choke/not too huge cap->9V-->5V {USB isolator in UAE23+}-->USB audio interface--> DAC or 3sixty->xovers/amps.
What I'll definitely so is provide a cleaner 5v juice. Do you realy think a reverse diode is necessary? What if I increase the cap after the choke? Or use a two stage filtering: Battery--->choke--->cap---->choke---->big cap like 10,000mf
Would the bib cap thake care of the spike?
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Old 4th April 2013, 11:06 PM   #297
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I warned you, if you try the ES9023 you may like it too much. {TRY IT} Probably not a big deal on the choke, depending on where it is and how big, but a 1N4007 or UF4007 {better} doesn't cost much either. DC field collapse would make a back-EMF spike just like a relay has. It is probably good to find MOV that can operate at 5V and/or at 13.8... I'm probably worrying too much. I used to see reverse-biased diode across 7805 regulators, for example too -- protected them from reverse spikes? Caps unloading?

Are you having any alternator whine? Now? Big Cap can help MAKE a big spike, at PWR ON, and at shut down, depending on how used. Those caps over a FARAD...WoW.
I usually go inside my amps and see if they have enough C where needed. And I'm not a car-stereo guy. CHokes ARE easily come by for lower currents anyway.

Frankly, polarity protection diodes in car audio have saved many pieces of gear, that and fuses. One reverse-biased across your lower current load, for instance, might prevent a mistake from killing expensive electronics.

Oh you can also use buck-regulators, but some might make more noise.

SO you need 5V for your Nexus 7? And then MAY wish to USB isolate, or, isolate 5V out of Nexus 7? Or can you not have a charger attached to Nexus 7 AND a data-out? Or make a cable +5 in from charging, data out, and separate +5 for DAC pre-regulator?

Well, the UAE23 is just a 3.5mm Walkman plug with a LED emitter behind it for Toslink... you can buy just TE7022 to SPFID/Toslink boxes but you PAY quite a bit and you might like to try the ES9023. UAE23+ somehow with a modded in 3.5mm//Toslink jack would be best of both worlds. HiFiMEDIY usually jumps in with the answer *if* you really want to DO it {export Toslink from UAE23+ model}. I'm pretty sure the UAE23+ would be a better MOD-host in general. I just do not need one right now.

So you tested Nexus 7 with TE7022 USB receiver? Or someone has?
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Old 4th April 2013, 11:25 PM   #298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enjoybiking View Post
I warned you, if you try the ES9023 you may like it too much. {TRY IT}

So you tested Nexus 7 with TE7022 USB receiver? Or someone has?
If I try the ES9023 and I like it, I'm in trouble because I need to feed not 2 but 7 analog lines. Bear in mind that the 3sixty takes the digital stereo audio in and apply crossovers /eq/ time alignment (in the digital domain ) to each one of the 7 analog outputs that I use.

Someone tested the Nexus7 with this interface and it works after enabling USB host mode at kernel level.
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Old 7th April 2013, 10:34 PM   #299
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SO, the 3Sixty must have numerous DACs, or perform the work 3-4 DACs would perform, after all the DSP work? Much like Behringer DCX2496 only 12V, eh? I'd be interested in knowing who's DACs, what part#.
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Old 7th April 2013, 10:46 PM   #300
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Much better than the Behringer. I'm afraid the manufacturer will not tell us about the DACs, so only opening the box we could know. Mine is already installed in the car in place that makes opening it pretty difficult.
Only thing I can tell you is that it sounds way better than the Behr unit (I have two of them so I already compared). I think that in the car environment the less conversions the better, that's the reason I want to go digital to the 3sixty input.
I just ordered the UAE23 AND a no name very cheap (10 bucks) USB to optical interface so I'll be able to compare.

Last edited by Ricren; 7th April 2013 at 10:48 PM.
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