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Old 11th February 2013, 05:04 PM   #241
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Madison, Wisconsin USA
Default UAE23 MODS Guide {proposed}

If you want to keep going and add more regulators, I suggest getting a mental picture of a few ways to do that.

See this thread:

Bragi, an Asynchronous ES9023 DAC with isolated I2S Input and Alps RK27 Volume pot

look at post #12.

Christian is using regulators you could not possibly DIY solder to the UAE23, but this schematic gives an idea what to try and accomplish. DO you keep this a USB powered device? If so, then you omit the 5V regulator and add your regulators to the 5V coming in via USB. 3.6V for DAC, 3.3V for 12Mhz TCXO, 3.3V for optional 50Mhz oscillator, and the TE7022 would use the LT1763? 3.3V already on the UAE23 DAC board. An SMD proto-PCB would make it easier yet. An alternative would be: MIC5209-3.6YS looks like a good 3.6V for the DAC Digikey # 576-2371-ND $2.02USD MIC5209-3.3YS for 3.3V Digikey# 576-3516-5-ND MIC5209 family DATASHEET:
http://www.micrel.com/_PDF/mic5209.pdf
would be good for the 2 oscillators I plan on ending up with. 12Mhz Fox 924B and 50Mhz for ES9023 MCK instead of MCK signal from TE7022. I am going to try a ~$1.51 USD Fox. Digikey
631-1166-1-ND. Clocks would have to have VERY short leads on the clock pins [mount on the UAE23 board somewhere upside down]. Some people feed V+ to clocks through a ferrite bead.

I mounted a UAE23 in a metal box and brought out audio to gold-plated RCAs. The right box would have room for a small multi-regulator SMD proto board. Or DIY regulator PCB. Chassis-mounted USB jacks can be had
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=092-278

In some ways the UAE23+ would be more productive to mod, but I already have external fiber-optic isolators {Opticis m2-100-03}.
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Old 16th February 2013, 04:37 AM   #242
diyskat is offline diyskat  Australia
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Many thanks to enjoybiking for the suggested mods. I've outlined a few of them directly in the attached PCB photo (I have yet to implement these changes in my UAE23).

In the first phase I will try to do Ua, Ra, Ca, Cf, Cg, and the X cut.
Ua=MIC5209-3.6BS (separate 3.6V reg for the ES9023; upside down)
Ra=100k (similar to the ODAC)
Ca=10u+2.2u (alternatively, replace C9 by 22u and add 100n here)
Cf=22u (see reference Ua design)
Cg=0.1u (see reference Ua design)

In the second phase I'm thinking of adding the other caps and replacing Y1 by Ya, and maybe add some ferrites.

If anyone has any other suggestions or advice about the mods, please let me know. It would be great if someone could help do proper measurements before and after the mods. The whole idea is about pushing this DAC from being good to great for a little premium (say $10-15; labour, tools, and shipping excluded).

DISCLAIMER: All the above mods are strictly DIY mods and are all at your own risk and will void any warranty there may be.
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Old 16th February 2013, 11:45 AM   #243
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Default UAE23 mods...

Quote:
Originally Posted by diyskat View Post
Many thanks to enjoybiking for the suggested mods. I've outlined a few of them directly in the attached PCB photo (I have yet to implement these changes in my UAE23).
...and for what it is worth I am just a long-time hobbyist, certainly not a DAC engineer, and have recently been dragging myself into the SMD world. Also, what I do to a little DAC like this that is already made is not always the same thing as what I wish-I-could-do, or I try something and like it so I stop instead of getting more scientific. Some might have a ferrite on the V+ to the clock, or some R between the TCXO out and the XI pin of the TE7022 {33 ohms let's say}. But, I didn't have one {or I do, but WHERE?} and after doing surgery on the DAC, of course wanted to hear the patient lived. {good to take a listen between stages of modification!!}

SO far I have been guided by some wizards way beyond my abilities -- soldering techniques and what tools and supplies to have around, what Youtube videos to watch on SMD soldering... and I appreciate the nudge to "just DO it".

As to component values, yikes, I have looked at maybe ~7x ES9023 schematics now, each person having their own opinion, either closely based on the somewhat lacking ESS tech PDF or... opinion, or testing. Much has been shared by the ODAC project {for instance}, and those people tested what they chose more scientifically than I ever will. One thing I got from my reading is that when it comes to caps, the kind and values... too much at the wrong place can degrade the circuit. {for instance the charge-pump} Certainly I have tried a few things that didn't work well, and I have not trashed anything YET. When picking say a new regulator to try, I will look at the datasheet and suggested implementation {caps etc surrounding it}, and I think about what is already in the device being modded.

Modded two UAE23 so far, the second one with much less haste and with some rethinking about where to put new components [shorter clock leads etc}. Lots of fun and they did sound nicer. Meanwhile better parts are showing up at my door, like ferrite beads and the SOT-223 sized Micrel regulators, SMD fanout boards...

I'd also like to point out that a stock UAE23 is a great buy and can blow away some DAC hardware I used to think was special. Without our friends at HifimeDIY we would not be having so much fun! I think the UAE23+ has even more potential {for home stereo not portable headphone use}, and a nice metal box with more room to play.
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Old 16th February 2013, 12:40 PM   #244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enjoybiking View Post
One thing I got from my reading is that when it comes to caps, the kind and values... too much at the wrong place can degrade the circuit. {for instance the charge-pump}.
Hi, what cap do people try for the charge pump and what value / type works best ? I guess film cap and 1uF ? Thank you.
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Old 16th February 2013, 01:01 PM   #245
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Default UAE23 mods: the 3.6V regulator

Quote:
Originally Posted by diyskat View Post
Many thanks to enjoybiking for the suggested mods. I've outlined a few of them directly in the attached PCB photo (I have yet to implement these changes in my UAE23).
I mounted my second regulator 90 degrees more clockwise {and yes, upside down} and tacked the regulator input to the USB 5v+ directly. It might be possible to tack a second ferrite there to the +5V "u" of trace there and feed the second regulator {mounted with feet almost straight up, maybe 10PM}.
If you wanted a third regulator, it MIGHT be possible to vertically stack TWO regulators. 3.6{DAC} and 3.3 {TCXO} SOT-223 style like you drew. Will it fit the plastic case? Maybe not.
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Old 16th February 2013, 02:58 PM   #246
diyskat is offline diyskat  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enjoybiking View Post
I mounted my second regulator 90 degrees more clockwise {and yes, upside down} ...
Sure, the mods' outline is just indicative. For example, there is actually more space for Cb and Ya on the other (=front) side of the PCB. The Ra could also go straight onto the R3 pads.
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Old 16th February 2013, 04:20 PM   #247
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Default UAE23 MODS: charge-pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nanoloop View Post
Hi, what cap do people try for the charge pump and what value / type works best ? I guess film cap and 1uF ? Thank you.
http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/r...2/open_big.png

part of a review at:

6moons audio reviews: Resonessence Labs Concero

CP? Probably 1uf like the ESS tech PDF, no markings but looks small, I doubt anyone has UNDER-sized CP cap. This design seems to use 220K on ES9023 pin#6 {Where ODAC uses 118K at 3.6Vdac, and I'm liking my 100K}. Note the 1117 regulators, I am not being a regulator snob but some might... and note the use of what looks like series Rs on the outs {another place I see different opinions, for instance ODAC at 220 ohms series, and 2200pF to ground}. I cannot tell if the caps there are wired CRC like Pi
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Old 16th February 2013, 07:20 PM   #248
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Default UAE23 mods: 3.6V & 50 Mhz

Quote:
Originally Posted by diyskat View Post
Sure, the mods' outline is just indicative. For example, there is actually more space for Cb and Ya on the other (=front) side of the PCB. The Ra could also go straight onto the R3 pads.
I did put a Fox XpressO 50.000 mHz clock on topside this morning, it is upside down with it's back laying on ES9023, OSC pin #3 feds the MCK pin on ES9023 with a few mm bare wire-wrap wire. OSC EN and V+ pins are towards bottom edge of board. GND from OSC to scratched clean top ground ground-plane spot {out left of DAC pins 2&3}. Once this was is place I cut trace coming from TE7022 pin#3 to the DAC, I did so where the trace heads East {flat} and cut away from myself towards the TE7022 so as not to nick the pin 2 and pin 1 TE7022 traces.

3.6V Micrel 5209 regulator is now much as you drew it on bottom of board by USB IN wires. Rather than desolder my old 3.3V TPS79633 I used it to run the new 50MHz clock, I ran the + wire up through that big hole [bottom right of your pic]. I added a decoupling cap to the OSC from EN pin to ground [EN is wire-bridged to V+ pin on 50M OSC]. I was able to use a wire-leaded cap there, typically that would be something like a 103 cap {0.01uF}. The Micrel's top TAB is stacked over the TPS79633 tab over edge of that large grounded hole. Micrel is NOT upside down.

So dedicated regulators for DAC, 50Mhz clock, and TE7022+12Mhz TCXO {sharing the onboard LT1763}.

DAC Vcc pin also gut a 22uF tiny can cap today, spanning that cap{s} aready at the DAC power injection point {below the etch cut on your drawing}

I may go back to the dungeon and try 470 ohms in series with left and right out lines before they hit the supersonic filter caps-to-ground. If I do that it will be fine knife-cuts to traces and bridge the cuts with SMD R 0603 or 0805 size.

Then to remember which side is right, and mount in box with RCAs.
{it is also possible to export/simulcast Toslink at the SAME TIME, just leave a 3.5mm Toslink cable plugged in. I have no use for it but the DAC will support it}

How does it sound? It was great before this wave, but it sure does have a nice sound-stage. The best contrast I can draw is my TE8802 + ak4396 combo: very precise but not as 3D... This is better, the best I've ever had. Sorry, no pix of Oriental rugs, wine, $30K mono-blocked stuff I don't own. I do add a touch of BBE {BBE is modded with high end CAPS in/out}. The music is in top-grade FLAC {we do not spin CDs anymore}

BBE Sound: Technologies: BBE HD Sound

and the speakers are time-aligned, Genesis Genre I {3-way}

www.genesisloudspeakers.com/.../genrei_ii/genre_brochure.pdf

18" 1KW Aura SUB is "off" no need.
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Old 17th February 2013, 07:04 AM   #249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enjoybiking View Post
Good picture - thank you. Looks 1uF ceramic only. If this is charge pump, maybe it is noisy, so better to put 0.1uF COG on IC pins direct. Also add low esr 1uF like polyester film ? Charge pump is supply for inside op amp, so better cap maybe improve THD+N ? Anyone try ?
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Old 19th February 2013, 03:37 AM   #250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nanoloop View Post
Good picture - thank you. Looks 1uF ceramic only. If this is charge pump, maybe it is noisy, so better to put 0.1uF COG on IC pins direct. Also add low esr 1uF like polyester film ? Charge pump is supply for inside op amp, so better cap maybe improve THD+N ? Anyone try ?
I am no expert on the ES9023 or this DAC but in my experience the DAC distorts unless the master system slider gain is down some, though that varies depending on what internal settings I use in my favorite PC player: Jriver MEdia Center. I run the DAC at 3.6V not UAE23 stock 3.3V and I use 100K on ES9026 pin 6 to ground. On the CP pins I use a small mix of SMD caps totally maybe 2-3-4uF, too much is too much. On the NEG pin we have varying opinions out on the threads, ODAC uses 22uF. When the DAC is not clipping, however you get there, it's really special. Nothing I have done to the CP pins has helped the clipping, the sliders do, the pin #6 resistor does but not yet 100% on it's own.
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