DSP Xover project (part 2)

unboxing

Just received my Najda and Control board kit today. Here are some unboxing photographs as reference for others interested in buying the kit. The optical SPDIF inputs are different from the photographs on the WAF-audio website (it was mentioned in this thread, that the optical input had to be changed due to parts availability); good that I have not yet started to drill any holes in the back panel. Everything was beautifully packaged, the volume knob and black OLED is nice. The last photograph shows the linear power supply, r-core transformer, remote control and standby button from audiophonics in France. I plan to cut up the control board (thanks fluid for your reply), and have only standby button, OLED, and Volume control on the front panel (with the volume push button wired to source selection, not mute ...) - will document my progress here ...

PS: jcga, sorry to hear that your communication with Nick is not great - my questions before buying Najda were answered very quickly and nicely. This is one of the reasons I bought Najda, I like precise technical answers from Nick without any overboarding markting as seen from a lot of companies. Maybe we should not bug him too much about decimation / FIR+IIR updates, we are all DIYers and not dealing with a big company :) He still seems to actively advance the Najda project, as Nick mentioned that the complete, boxed version of Najda will be sold soon ...
 

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PS: jcga, sorry to hear that your communication with Nick is not great - my questions before buying Najda were answered very quickly and nicely. This is one of the reasons I bought Najda, I like precise technical answers from Nick without any overboarding markting as seen from a lot of companies. Maybe we should not bug him too much about decimation / FIR+IIR updates, we are all DIYers and not dealing with a big company :) He still seems to actively advance the Najda project, as Nick mentioned that the complete, boxed version of Najda will be sold soon ...

I disagree. He should be more communicative and not leave an impression that he is only interested in new business. It would help if he at least gave some acknowledgment that he knows our concerns. If he is not able to deliver what he promised, he should say so. But now here we are with unfulfilled expectations.
 
I disagree. He should be more communicative and not leave an impression that he is only interested in new business. It would help if he at least gave some acknowledgment that he knows our concerns. If he is not able to deliver what he promised, he should say so. But now here we are with unfulfilled expectations.

I can understand the anger about unfulfilled expectations. This thread should mainly be about Najda dsp crossover use though and too much ranting makes it unreadable for DIYers. Also too much ranting might put off other customers and thereby make any new software or hardware in the Najda project even more unlikely. Taking the experience of Shaun and others into account, I guess anyone buying a new Najda should only expect to use features that are already in place and not buy because of features that might come in the future. Projects always take longer than expected; coming from Berlin the new airport which is 5 years behind schedule comes to mind :).
 
This thread should mainly be about Najda dsp crossover use though and too much ranting makes it unreadable for DIYers.

Large parts of this thread are suggestions and discussion of new features and Nick answering them. This is the only place for discussing them. There have been 2 (or 3?) dates that came and went for the new firmware.

Since Nick has been MIA on this thread for a while and there seem to be communication problems through other means. Where do you suggest any grievances (in a polite manner) to be uttered then?

Besides a short post "sorry guys some **** came up (the move back to poland?) don't expect a new firmware this year" is free and would do a lot to prevent these frustrations.
 
input sensitivity dip switches

Does anyone know what position of the dip switches should be chosen for correct input sensitivity? My understanding is there are the left - right analogue inputs which can be switched from 1 Vrms to 2 Vrms sensitivity. But there are four switches (see upper left corner of picture in my post above).
Would 1Vrms sensitivity correspond to all switches up? 2Vrms to all switches down? The board came in a position with all switches 1 to 4 in the "on" state according to the markings on board, that is 1up/2down/3down/4up - what state does this correspond to?

PS: of course feel free to utter your grievances or frustrations here, I am not here to defend Nick, just not sure how productive it is (luckily DIYaudio is a bit bitter than other forums, in that I feel most threads including this one are pretty polite DIYers wanting maximum sound quality)
 
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Does anyone know what position of the dip switches should be chosen for correct input sensitivity? My understanding is there are the left - right analogue inputs which can be switched from 1 Vrms to 2 Vrms sensitivity. But there are four switches (see upper left corner of picture in my post above).
Would 1Vrms sensitivity correspond to all switches up? 2Vrms to all switches down? The board came in a position with all switches 1 to 4 in the "on" state according to the markings on board, that is 1up/2down/3down/4up - what state does this correspond to?

Hi yoshisoakland,

The correct switch-positions are marked on the silk-screen of the board !
 
Hi yoshisoakland,

The correct switch-positions are marked on the silk-screen of the board !

I had a look at the silkscreen writing (see also images in my post above), but I am not quite sure what it means: my guess is that I have to put all four switches in one direction either all in the 1Vrms or all in the 2Vrms row? (if not, what do the four switches 1-4 with their on and off setting mean? The on off labels in the four columns on the board silkscreen confuse me a bit)

Another question: I had a look at the relay output, and the datasheet of the optocoupler- darlington chip on the board. Which of the two outputs should I connect to the plus voltage of a relay transformer and which should I connect via the relay to ground? Does the polarity matter at all?

Thanks in advance!
 
Thanks Rainair, now I understand and my question seems silly (finally saw that putting a switch "up" corresponds to "on", and the silkscrren table position have nothing to do with the dip switch positions).
:)

Still wonder whether the polarity matters for the relay output connections (looked at FOD 852 datasheet http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1727610.pdf Is it correct that pin 4 in datasheet should be the positive relay voltage, Post 2990 does not show the polarity http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...p-xover-project-part-2-a-299.html#post4616524)

Also, I would like to wire the rotary encoder press to not mute but to change input (see https://youtu.be/OXuygSez6a0 for a demonstration of what I would like to have). Is there a way to achieve this with the current firmware, or is the "next input selection" only possible via remote and not via a button?
 
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Still wonder whether the polarity matters for the relay output connections (looked at FOD 852 datasheet http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1727610.pdf Is it correct that pin 4 in datasheet should be the positive relay voltage, Post 2990 does not show the polarity http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...p-xover-project-part-2-a-299.html#post4616524)

Ok, thinking a bit more about it and looking at the diode in the above datasheet and the Najda_Startup_Guide.pdf section II.5, I can answer my own question about the remote connection (just write here in case someone will have the same question in the future): looking at the Najda board from the back, the right relay connector has to be connected to the positive voltage, the left connector to ground/negative via the relay.
 
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The Najda Boxed is here!

Due to numerous requests, WAF is releasing a fully boxed Najda processor ready to use. Just plug in the power chord and start immediately configuring your audio system.

The enclosure is made to measure from raw aluminum blocks CNC'd and powder coated with a paint that mimics anodisation - but is less prone to finger prints. All lettering is laser-engraved in place of the more common slik-screening in order to guard against fading.
By end of the year, WAF is going to roll out units featuring optinal add-on boards: the analogue expansion (stereo symmetrical analogue input plus 2 extra analogue outputs) and a USB audio input with DSD support. More details and pictures to be published soon!

WAF-Audio

 
another Najda up and running

Finally assembled the kit. It sounds nice - as I have not yet made any microphone measurements and tweaked the filter settings I have to wait until I can compare it to a PC based crossover in critical listening. I have cut up the control board to make my own minimalistic looking front plate. In cutting up the board I disconnected +5V and DGND from the rotary encoder and have to solder some wires, also the remote receiver worked at first, but then I wrapped it up in bubble wrap and the static electricity killed it :-(.

The original control board setup with LEDs and buttons reminds me of a pro-audio look, I want to have a clean front with as few buttons as possible (standby button, display, volume). It would be great if the push-button function of the rotary encoder for volume could be mapped to select the next source, then I would have all the digital pre-amp functions of on/off, source selection and volume covered. I know there are quite a few other wishes for updates to the software / firmware so let's see whats possible in the future (it would also be great if left/right buttons do not show a reminder message when bass/treble is disabled but would switch source) :)
Still have to have the front plate machined - the back I drilled myself and with my skills it is ok but not perfect, so the front will be done on professional tools.

I have a few more questions:
-what is the ir remote receiver of the control board kit, or one that is pin compatible?
-are the outputs of Najda ac coupled? I am asking because my DIY amplifier is DC coupled and I want some protection against dc current on my speakers.

Thanks for any help, and thanks to Nick for a great kit :)
 

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