DSP Xover project (part 2)

Will the new software revision enable the "Grimm Audio" approach which I believe is something along these lines:
1) IIR eq all bands flat well beyond intended passband (flat acoustic response should give flat phase per channel)
2) Adjust levels per channel
3) Use textbook IIR filters for crossovers (should yield flat system response but with phase rotations due to xo)
4) Reverse xo phase shifts using FIR filters, giving flat response and flat phase.
5) Add "house curve eq", room correction etc.
 
Hi...
(probably this was answered before...but...I could not find it)

I'am thinking about buying some I2S DAC, there is Curryman DAC GB in the way...

So I'am wondering, how can I control volume if I connect external I2S DAC to Najda ?
(I don't know if Curryman DAC have volume control...I believe it haven't got one)
 
Screws for rear plate

Hi,

at the moment I am using my Najda in a Hifi2000 slimline case without rear plate. The connectors of my RCA cables are quite tight and the Najda PCB bends when plugging in the cable connector to the Najda jacks. I fear that one time they might break off.

I am going to use the 3mm rear plate to secure the Najda RCA jacks.
The appendix says the RCA jacks have a 2.4mm mounting hole. However, I did not find 2.4mm screws anywhere.

To those who already build a case:
What screws are you using for securing the Najda RCA jacks to the rear plate?

Thanks!
Uwe
 
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Let's take an example: you have 10 dB gain and the volume down to -30 dB. The Cirrus chip gets from one register the +10 dB information, from another register the -30 dB one. Then the chip 'sums' the above and ends with a -20 dB attenuation.
We take now a variation on this example: you have -5 dB gain and the volume down to -15 dB. Again, summing leads to -20 dB attenuation.
We expect no difference between the original situation and the variation because there's no specific register for pure gains and no specific register for pure attenuation: each register can access the whole range from -96 dB up to +22 dB. In other terms, the logic doesn't give you independent control over gain and attenuation structures.
Now I nearly understand, but still if CS3318 had volume range 0 to -96 dB and gain 0 to +22 dB, full range 118 dB, it is quite misleading if Najda had same volume range but gain -15 to +15 dB and calculated full range 111 dB.


How are things with "double and lost" sections? Yesterday I again get problem when connected online to Najda I deleted 5th section but actually was deleted last, 7th section from channel.
 
Got my Najda yesterday! It was a pleasure dealing with Nick, the transaction went smoothly and delivery was quick.

Today I got the PSU I intend to use, a Mean Well NES-50B. I also got the IR-receiver. I have a whole bunch of more stuff on order from various sources but it'll probably take a while before I have it all which raises the question of: What is the bare minimum I need to do anything useful with the board? Can I do anything meaningful with only the PSU and a USB-connection to my computer? I'm hoping of course I can control it via USB until my buttons, display and remote arrive.

Another question, the Mean Well puts out exactly -12V, the positive voltages are adjusted via a single pot however. If I set it to exactly +12V, the 5V output is +5,25V. If I instead set that to exactly +5V, the 12V output is about 11,8V. The question is what setting is better? I seem to recall reading in this thread that the 5V input on the Najda is unregulated, so I assume that's more important to get as close as possible?

EDIT: I realize the documentation says "Among these peripherals, the Power Supply, the LCD display and the Keypad are compulsory. This
means that the system will not operate without these three peripherals.", but I'm hoping that's for full operation and that I can do something with less. Maybe I can rip a push button or two (or ten :)) from an old computer chassi or two if that will help, if the display is absolutely necessary I'm out of luck though.
 
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Now I nearly understand, but still if CS3318 had volume range 0 to -96 dB and gain 0 to +22 dB, full range 118 dB, it is quite misleading if Najda had same volume range but gain -15 to +15 dB and calculated full range 111 dB.

Hi Meelis,

The CS3318 cannot amplify the input signal beyond the power supply rails, this explains why the full 22 dB gain is not available.

How are things with "double and lost" sections? Yesterday I again get problem when connected online to Najda I deleted 5th section but actually was deleted last, 7th section from channel.

Until now I haven't been able to reproduce the bug with your files. I'll keep trying and I'll let you know. I'm currently back on the software now.

Today I got the PSU I intend to use, a Mean Well NES-50B. I also got the IR-receiver. I have a whole bunch of more stuff on order from various sources but it'll probably take a while before I have it all which raises the question of: What is the bare minimum I need to do anything useful with the board? Can I do anything meaningful with only the PSU and a USB-connection to my computer? I'm hoping of course I can control it via USB until my buttons, display and remote arrive.

Hi PMental, good to hear from you ;)

Re. your questions on peripherals, it's yes and no. You need at least one push-button to take the Najda out of StandBy. I also recommend you connect a led on the LCD backlight so that you know when the Najda is operating.
In order to use the IR controller, you need the display and the keyboard. Indeed, there's a learn procedure that requires you have the keyboard and the display installed.

BTW I'm currently looking at supporting RC5 also.

Another question, the Mean Well puts out exactly -12V, the positive voltages are adjusted via a single pot however. If I set it to exactly +12V, the 5V output is +5,25V. If I instead set that to exactly +5V, the 12V output is about 11,8V. The question is what setting is better? I seem to recall reading in this thread that the 5V input on the Najda is unregulated, so I assume that's more important to get as close as possible?

Set the 5V supply to 5V and allow a delta on the +/- 12V rails.

@Urban: Could you tell us what screws you have used for securing the connectors to the rear panel on your (great) build?
 
Really? That would be beyond awesome of you! Let me know if you find anything and I'll PM you my details. I'll obviously cover any postage and gladly pay some beer money too :)

Found a mini display with some 35 mm text area that could get you started. Hard to solder directly but you can cut the ribbon between each conductor and solder it to a pin header quite easily. It's yours if you want it.
 

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@Urban: Could you tell us what screws you have used for securing the connectors to the rear panel on your (great) build?

I use a self-threading T10 "cheese head" screw that's roughly 6 mm in length. It's commonly used for 2-3 mm panels in lots of stuff and was sourced from a company that coincidently makes audio equipment with 2-3 mm panels using PCB mount RCA jacks very similar to the ones on the Najda board. 15 years ago. I started planning my Najda build quite early you see. I probably have a hundred or so left in case you need a few.
 

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Hi PMental, good to hear from you ;)

Re. your questions on peripherals, it's yes and no. You need at least one push-button to take the Najda out of StandBy. I also recommend you connect a led on the LCD backlight so that you know when the Najda is operating.
In order to use the IR controller, you need the display and the keyboard. Indeed, there's a learn procedure that requires you have the keyboard and the display installed.

BTW I'm currently looking at supporting RC5 also.
Cool, if I get desperate I know what's possible. Now it seems I may be able to get the most necessary stuff up and running thanks to the generosity of forum members though :)
Set the 5V supply to 5V and allow a delta on the +/- 12V rails.
Excellent, thanks.
 
Hi,

thanks for your replies so far.

Indemini wrote:
M2,5X6 Senkkopfschrauben TORX DIN 965 A2 schwarz

UrSv wrote:
self-threading T10 "cheese head" screw that's roughly 6 mm in length

So there is seems to be consensus on 6mm length. UrSV uses self-threading, Idemini threaded screws. So both types seem to work.

UrSv: What diameter do you screws have? Also 2.5mm?


Uwe