Build Thread for TPA BIII + Ian Async I2S FIFO + OPC NTD1 + Salas SSLV - Page 55 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Source & Line > Digital Line Level

Digital Line Level DACs, Digital Crossovers, Equalizers, etc.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 17th November 2013, 08:37 PM   #541
mcluxun is offline mcluxun  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crom View Post
Thank you for a very interesting and informative thread. I am part way through reading it as I am about to change my buffalo IV stage and add Ian's FIFO stage to it.

I've come across mention of the NTD1 but having searched there seem to be a few threads dedicated to this and I can't work out which is the definitive read. Can anyone send me some links to the most up to date info and the GB?
Thank you,
Crom
please note that the 400ohm 15w resister in the bom TN15P400RFE Ohmite | Mouser
Dont have a mounting hole, which becomes a PITA to get a good contact with the heatsink.
Dont fail into the same pit fall I got into.
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th November 2013, 07:59 AM   #542
Crom is offline Crom  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Hmmm, thanks for the help McLuxun. Do you have a suggestion about how to approach this? I love the copper by the way - it looks like a good idea as long as it'll take the heat!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcluxun View Post
please note that the 400ohm 15w resister in the bom TN15P400RFE Ohmite | Mouser
Dont have a mounting hole, which becomes a PITA to get a good contact with the heatsink.
Dont fail into the same pit fall I got into.
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th November 2013, 10:16 AM   #543
Crom is offline Crom  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Having done a lot of reading and spent a bit of time untangling the various threads I've put together a list of useful links. I think I’ve got this right but please let me know if different!

Hopefully these links will be useful to people just arriving at this great looking project.

Development Thread: A New Take on the Classic Pass Labs D1 with an ESS Dac
Build thread: BUILD THREAD - A New Take on the Classic Pass Labs D1 with an ESS Dac
Vendor’s thread: "The Wire" Official Boards for All Projects Available Here! BAL-BAL, SE-SE, LPUHP
bigpandahk’s build thread (great build pictures from page 47 onwards): Build Thread for TPA BIII + Ian Async I2S FIFO + OPC NTD1 + Salas SSLV

The GB sign up spreadsheet is here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...Xc&usp=sharing

Latest official schematic and BOM: A New Take on the Classic Pass Labs D1 with an ESS Dac
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th November 2013, 10:18 AM   #544
Crom is offline Crom  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigpandahk View Post
Here is the build threads with BOM and Schematic
I don't think there is any GB for NTD1 at the moment. I have a spare kit, drop me a PM.
Thanks bigpandahk, that's helpful. And also for the kit which is now winging it's way across to the UK! I'll let you know when it arrives.

Cheers for now but I'm sure I'll have other questions ;-)

Last edited by Crom; 27th November 2013 at 10:34 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th November 2013, 06:36 PM   #545
mcluxun is offline mcluxun  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crom View Post
Hmmm, thanks for the help McLuxun. Do you have a suggestion about how to approach this? I love the copper by the way - it looks like a good idea as long as it'll take the heat!!
hey crom
As I measured the height of the mosfet is thickest among them, so I made sure they have good contact with the plate.
And pad the others to the same height.
Back in the days there were a GB on parts where they got to220 size resistors from texas component which was rated 8w instead 15w in the bom.
It seemed working, you might want to try that as well.
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th November 2013, 02:04 AM   #546
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Crom

The NTD1 generate lot of heat, you need heatsink larger than the PCB with long fins. Before you solder anything onto the PCB, use the PCB to mark the heatsink for holes.

Enjoy!!
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th December 2013, 04:57 AM   #547
mcluxun is offline mcluxun  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Click the image to open in full size.
Need some advice on floor planning.
basic needs:
separation of ps and others
weight balancing
shortest route for i2s
Any advice?
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th December 2013, 06:36 AM   #548
Crom is offline Crom  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
I'm only learning so this needs validating but here are some things that I'd do:

- keep AC away from DC,
- only cross cables at right angles (if you have to)
- You can stack toroids on top of each other if you want. You're right about the weight distribution being a problem. In one box I put transformers underneath everything and put aluminium and steel between that 'compartment' and the one above where all the pubs went.
- keep the regulators as close to the circuit you are powering ie leads short.
- twist all AC cables together, and many argue DC too...something to do with inductance if I remember correctly.
- the dac chips don't like excessive heat.

My dac build is getting so big that I am going to use 2 boxes. All the transformers, rectification and reservoir caps in one box and then regs and actual dac stuff in the other. Alternatively, you can use copper or other metal (although I never got to the bottom of which was best) to divide the box up. Keep the transformers separate, the AC out the way and then surround the pcbs with power supplies. I was also considering mounting the ntd1 upside down to get the Heat out of the top of the box. This would mean that (in the case I'm thinking about) I could put the fifo, waveio and associated digital stuff underneath the ntd1 to keep digital connections as short as possible.

There's loads of other stuff to experiment with. The lampizator guys swear by mounting their dac boards onto chunks of wood, you should definitely do this for the transformers (make sure that the mounting screws don't just go straight through wood if possible because you are trying to stop vibrations travelling from transformer to chassis). I haven't tried it with a dac board and some of their comments are ridiculed here...but then their dacs sound pretty good so I'm of the opinion that I should try before I dismiss.

Hmmm bit of a stream of consciousness that...Hope this helps,
Crom
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th December 2013, 06:39 AM   #549
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Don't know why you want weight balancing.

Your heatsink is too small for the NTD1. you better test it before put it into the casing.

You may following Ian's arrangement, stack the clock board on the FIFO with the SPDIF board next to the FIFO. This will provide you the shortest I2S route.

For PS, you need to separate the transformers only, not the regulators. The two SSLV also generate lot of heat, need a large heatsink.
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th December 2013, 10:20 AM   #550
Crom is offline Crom  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigpandahk View Post
Don't know why you want weight balancing.
It's icing on the cake stuff...I'd prefer to have evenly distributed weight if I can achieve it. It's not critical though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigpandahk View Post
Your heatsink is too small for the NTD1. you better test it before put it into the casing.
You're absolutely right. I looked into a heatsink. Qusp recommended a good one but it's half way around the world so I looked into others. I came up with this:

HAM-F10T TDK-Lambda | Mouser

The Thermal resistance figure is missing from the product data (believe it or not) but an estimation using some learning from this page HEATSINKS by SM0VPO indicates that it will be big enough if combined with a metal case.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigpandahk View Post
For PS, you need to separate the transformers only, not the regulators. The two SSLV also generate lot of heat, need a large heatsink.
Definitely don't separate the regulators from the load - they should be as close as possible to the circuit you're powering. However, the best solution would appear to be separating the transformers, rectification circuit and the reservoir caps. More info here: 2 chassis solutions: where best to divide the power supply between the boxes?

Hope this helps,
Crom
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ian asynchronous I2S and S/PDIF FIFO KIT group buy iancanada Group Buys 1641 Today 03:09 PM
Asynchronous I2S FIFO project, an ultimate weapon to fight the jitter iancanada Digital Line Level 3384 Today 01:04 AM
FS Quanghao SSLV Salas design merlin el mago Swap Meet 12 17th August 2012 02:06 AM
F.S quanghao salas sslv 1.0 for buffalo dac. back Swap Meet 1 31st July 2012 02:32 AM
Simple FIFO to I2S CPLD, for MCU players / reclocking KOON3876 Digital Line Level 21 19th September 2008 04:00 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 04:06 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2