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Old 3rd October 2012, 05:32 PM   #201
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Thanks to bigpandahk and DimDim for the help. I get input through channel B of the Twisted Pear 4 channel SPDIF input board where I had nothing through it before with the Arduino control. I can't get any input from A, C or D physically moving the input from B and selecting different inputs with the encoder (making sure they are set to SPDIF). I also have a TP Sidecar between the input board and DAC activated manualy right now. I do get input through the Sidecar from a modded CD/SACD player when activated.

I had some strange ghost setting changes occur when the Arduino was connected to a wall wart AC power supply. I have it connected to a TP LCDPS linear supply in the DAC now. Max voltage I can get out of it the LCDPS stock form is 6.5v and it seems to work OK. The other half of the LCDPS feeds the Sidecar.

One odd thing is I get static pops when making menu changes with the encoder playing DSD from my CD player through the Sidecar. If I play CD, or export I2S from the same CD player, I get no noise or interrupts when changing settings with the encoder. This static pops also occured changing settings playing DSD with the wall wart power supply.

I have a star ground for all my power supplies and boards, except where the Arduino grounds to the master DAC board of my BIII dual mono build. Ground for the Arduino is at pin 3 of the master BIII DAC external I/O connector. Pin 23 and 24 are SDA/SCL.

Last edited by SCompRacer; 3rd October 2012 at 05:43 PM.
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Old 3rd October 2012, 10:04 PM   #202
DQ828 is offline DQ828  Australia
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I have never been able to get more than one of the SPDIF inputs to work properly on the TP 4 way input board & that's without the Arduino connected,. It's one of the problems I need to get back to. I believe there are a few issues like this around the place.
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Old 4th October 2012, 12:23 AM   #203
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I've heard of that issue. I've never tried mine with more than one source connected since I have never left build mode. I'll have to add another SPDIF in and connect a second source and test it with the firmware chip and then with the Arduino.
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Old 4th October 2012, 01:00 AM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCompRacer View Post
Thanks to bigpandahk and DimDim for the help. I get input through channel B of the Twisted Pear 4 channel SPDIF input board where I had nothing through it before with the Arduino control. I can't get any input from A, C or D physically moving the input from B and selecting different inputs with the encoder (making sure they are set to SPDIF). I also have a TP Sidecar between the input board and DAC activated manualy right now. I do get input through the Sidecar from a modded CD/SACD player when activated.

I had some strange ghost setting changes occur when the Arduino was connected to a wall wart AC power supply. I have it connected to a TP LCDPS linear supply in the DAC now. Max voltage I can get out of it the LCDPS stock form is 6.5v and it seems to work OK. The other half of the LCDPS feeds the Sidecar.

One odd thing is I get static pops when making menu changes with the encoder playing DSD from my CD player through the Sidecar. If I play CD, or export I2S from the same CD player, I get no noise or interrupts when changing settings with the encoder. This static pops also occured changing settings playing DSD with the wall wart power supply.

I have a star ground for all my power supplies and boards, except where the Arduino grounds to the master DAC board of my BIII dual mono build. Ground for the Arduino is at pin 3 of the master BIII DAC external I/O connector. Pin 23 and 24 are SDA/SCL.
Your problem seems related to signal grounding. Are you using Cat 5 cable for connecting between your CD player and DAC?

You may try the following to see if it can solve your problem.

1. disconnect the earth connection from your DAC to your wall socket (circuits of your DAC are low volt DC except the input of the mains transformer, it should not have any safety issue.) Let's find out the cause of problem and then sort out the electrical safety issue.
2. check if your RCA socket short to your chasis, if yes, isolate them
3. Replace all wires to your RCA sockets to coaxial audio cable

I have no problem on source selection using FIFO. I hope you can get the answer from TPA support on your SPDIF module problem. I realize that you are using TPA's input selector for the SPDIF, will this conflict with your Arduino control? Or you have to change both for source selection?

Last edited by bigpandahk; 4th October 2012 at 01:17 AM.
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Old 6th October 2012, 07:45 PM   #205
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SCR, I've run 2 inputs before off my SPDIF-4. That's all so far. I just received my display and shield and with the help of bigpandahk's code so far I'm ready to jump in. Looks like my 2 gig SD card with the multi-adapters isn't going to work, I guess I'll have to try and hunt down an old one someplace. The sound of these things running is real compelling motivation. Your guy's displays look great. /Mike
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Old 6th October 2012, 11:55 PM   #206
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I am able to select all inputs with the code now. No problems locking on either source with more than one source connected. Mike, some folks with 220v 50Hz mains report problems with more than one source connected to the TP 4 channel board. I just wanted to be sure it wouldn't happen to me despite having 120v 60Hz mains.

I still have some problems with static pops changing menu settings with DSD playing. Yes on CAT 5, I tried lifting grounds on the DAC and modded Denon player exporting I2S and DSD via a Twisted Pear Teleporter. No difference. I even tried unfastening the Teleporter from the chassis of the Denon. I can change settings with no static with I2S playing from the Denon. I may have to add some mute code? It isn't that big a deal though as I don't have many SACD's.

Hey Mike, just jump in there. I may just keep the 4x20 LCD. I've had enough fun with code.

Last edited by SCompRacer; 7th October 2012 at 12:01 AM.
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Old 7th October 2012, 01:18 AM   #207
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Default Hifiarduino and Buffalo Dac

Hi Rich,

Yeah the learning curve is steep even with arduino 'ez-code' (my paraphrase) ;^).
Interesting on the problem with different power and the inputs on the dac.

I've always had a problem with a particular microwave oven that I have, just a cheap unit from a major brand.
Every time without fail when I close the door on the mw oven the Dac loses lock for a second. That's just about
the only time I've ever had it lose lock. It drove me so crazy I moved the mw over to the other hot leg on the service
panel opposite the circuit the dac's wall outlet is on. The dac's power supplies also are fed by a power line
conditioner and pi filter. Maybe having everything in a case/chassis grounded to the IEC connecter will help.
I hope so. Either that or the mw oven goes.

I apologize for straying so far off topic.

/Mike
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Old 7th October 2012, 01:21 AM   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCompRacer View Post
I still have some problems with static pops changing menu settings with DSD playing. Yes on CAT 5, I tried lifting grounds on the DAC and modded Denon player exporting I2S and DSD via a Twisted Pear Teleporter. No difference. I even tried unfastening the Teleporter from the chassis of the Denon. I can change settings with no static with I2S playing from the Denon. I may have to add some mute code? It isn't that big a deal though as I don't have many SACD's.
Since the I2S and DSD signals are going through the same path and components, so the pops may be originally from your Denon player not anything related to wiring or grounding.

Just go through your building threads again, the only difference between I2S and DSD is your modified SideCar for switching. Check again if the signal ground is switched properly.

The code from HIFIDuino already has the manual Mute via remote.

Last edited by bigpandahk; 7th October 2012 at 01:36 AM.
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Old 7th October 2012, 03:12 PM   #209
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Have linked up all the existing devices and all function properly. As I don't want to have another switch on the panel for power On/Off, so try to use the rotary encoder for On/Off switching. It is far more difficult than expected. The GLCD with Arduino shield does't have an individual point for power the backlight LED, hence it is impossible to turn off the GLCD with the Arduino still being powered.

Spent several days and basically achieve the function I want but only can blank the LCD when power "OFF". Still need more tests and debug.

Don't want this to be an never ended project, I freeze the outstanding list (hope I can) as below and target to be completed within this year

1. adding Ian's isolation board and battery management board
2. May be upgrade the dual clock board to Ian's I570 clock board?
3. Modify BIII to Sync Mode
4. Replace Legato with OPC's NTD1
5. build PSU using LDO regulators for WaveIO and Arduino
6. Order Front and Rear panels from Panel Express
6. Debug Arduino Code
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Old 10th October 2012, 10:50 AM   #210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigpandahk View Post
Have linked up all the existing devices and all function properly. As I don't want to have another switch on the panel for power On/Off, so try to use the rotary encoder for On/Off switching. It is far more difficult than expected. The GLCD with Arduino shield does't have an individual point for power the backlight LED, hence it is impossible to turn off the GLCD with the Arduino still being powered.

Spent several days and basically achieve the function I want but only can blank the LCD when power "OFF". Still need more tests and debug.

Don't want this to be an never ended project, I freeze the outstanding list (hope I can) as below and target to be completed within this year

1. adding Ian's isolation board and battery management board
2. May be upgrade the dual clock board to Ian's I570 clock board?
3. Modify BIII to Sync Mode
4. Replace Legato with OPC's NTD1
5. build PSU using LDO regulators for WaveIO and Arduino
6. Order Front and Rear panels from Panel Express
6. Debug Arduino Code
I have been slowly working on being able to turn the screen off & dim the backlight but have not got there yet, too many things keep getting in the way. I put a relay in on the power line to the screen so it would turn off when I hit the power off button for the system (Mega stays on) but something weird happened, it didn't turn off I lost interest at that stage but will get back to it.

I am going to hack into the backlight power line & run it from one of the PWM pins with a resistor in series, hopefully I wont kill it, maybe on the weekend.
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