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#961 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
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#962 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
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Sorry for off topic. But I did perfect tunning of Buffalo DACIII its tunning very, very, improves sound! This is related to a decrease electrical noise for ESS9018.I assembly on all in and out Trident Buffalo DACIII 18dB/oct Murata 100MHz filter.This reduces internal jitter ESS9018. Enjoy
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#963 |
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is choosing a less facetious title...
diyAudio Member
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you know this reduces jitter how?
ggking, no, i2s may actually be worse with fifo, because it can introduce noise on ground. that being said, AR2 and I were talking of the interface, not fifo. think you might've missed the point of the conversation |
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#964 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Blackburn, Lancs
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! Sorry but some of the mods that get shown are horrible, not neat and tidyjust look bodged.
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#965 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Cluj-Napoca, Romania
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For the I2S signals (MCK, SCK, WS, SD) a small board between fifo and clock board could comprise for e.g. some ISO150 / ISO7220 digital couplers. Beside MCK and power what other signals are carried on the flexible molex cable? to know how many isolators are needed What do you think? L.E.: ISO150 might be an older part as ISO722 or alike are much cheaper Last edited by vzs; 12th September 2012 at 02:23 PM. |
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#966 |
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is choosing a less facetious title...
diyAudio Member
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at marce: you said it....particularly when there is murata LC network (SMD) that would have just soldered directly across the inputs… thats if it was something really worth doing. the above is quite a contrast to the 'MODs' of the thread subject. those filters look more like noise aerials (lightning rods) connected directly to the clock power supply and ground to me.....
@ vzs: i've mentioned it a few times, last time only a few pages ago, maybe once in the GB thread too. I was thinking more an island on the PCB rather than adding another connection, but an adapter would work sure. what cable are you talking about? all we realy need to do is float ground somehow between the boards. thats easy enough for the power, just power the clock with a separate battery or transformer winding+floating reg, but the signals are another thing, there will be control signals etc, I think the only way to do this successfully would be with Ian onboard Last edited by qusp; 12th September 2012 at 02:32 PM. |
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#967 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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__________________
www.hifiduino.wordpress.com |
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#968 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Quote:
__________________
www.hifiduino.wordpress.com |
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#969 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Cluj-Napoca, Romania
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I'm talking about the FFC cable, right to the 7pin PH2 cable. Afaik this carries the MCK from clock board to fifo and the power from fifo to clock, and probably other signals as well... Ian could tell. This small adapter could fit/float between the FIFO and Clock-board and would have all connectors needed 2x 7pin PH2, 2x FFC conn and 2x PH2 con for power (right-angled smd version to be neat). I'm working on my multibit DAC board now and with one dirty hand I will do this as well - just to decide which digital coupler to use. |
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#970 |
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diyAudio Member
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