Hi @iancanada
Looking at the stationPi pro. Does the 4D touch screen also include the ESS controller?
Looking at the stationPi pro. Does the 4D touch screen also include the ESS controller?
Hello @iancanada ,
Please, be kind and make an update about this:
- On StationPiPro manual there is a note about J15 (I would like to use this to be able to turn ON/OFF the streamer)
"J15 is an optional continuous AC/DC power supply for the StationPi Pro controller. Can use both AC 6-9V (can be from a small transformer) or DC 5-12V. 200mA rated current would be more than enough. When powering by this continuous power supply, StationPi Pro controller will be capable to perform ON/OFF control for the whole system. A later on upgraded FW will be required to implement this function. For now, please just keep J15 unconnected."
- I will use FifoPi Q7 and HDMIPi Pro, but I would like to have more than one output and I was thinking about TransportPI MKII on top of the HDMIPi Pro. Would it be any problems? I saw that FifoPi Q7 have 2 MCLK output connectors (J6, J11) so I will be able to connect both HDMIPi Pro and TransportPi using u.fl cables.
On the other hand, sad thing about the position of output connectors on TransportPI versus the output connector of HDMIPiPro will make it difficult to put them together in a chassis (where normally all the outputs should be on the rear panel). What do you think about another version of TransportPI with the output connectors on the narrow side of the PCB (maybe without HDMI)?
Thank you!
Please, be kind and make an update about this:
- On StationPiPro manual there is a note about J15 (I would like to use this to be able to turn ON/OFF the streamer)
"J15 is an optional continuous AC/DC power supply for the StationPi Pro controller. Can use both AC 6-9V (can be from a small transformer) or DC 5-12V. 200mA rated current would be more than enough. When powering by this continuous power supply, StationPi Pro controller will be capable to perform ON/OFF control for the whole system. A later on upgraded FW will be required to implement this function. For now, please just keep J15 unconnected."
- I will use FifoPi Q7 and HDMIPi Pro, but I would like to have more than one output and I was thinking about TransportPI MKII on top of the HDMIPi Pro. Would it be any problems? I saw that FifoPi Q7 have 2 MCLK output connectors (J6, J11) so I will be able to connect both HDMIPi Pro and TransportPi using u.fl cables.
On the other hand, sad thing about the position of output connectors on TransportPI versus the output connector of HDMIPiPro will make it difficult to put them together in a chassis (where normally all the outputs should be on the rear panel). What do you think about another version of TransportPI with the output connectors on the narrow side of the PCB (maybe without HDMI)?
Thank you!
ESS Controller questions (display burn?):
Hi all, I’m not sure if this is the correct forum for these questions, but there is not much recent activity on the Group Buy thread, so I thought I’d post here where more people might see it.
I have 2 of Ian’s clever ESS Controllers – one on my StationPi setup, and one that I bought in a later Group Buy for my StationPi Pro (been building it and testing it on and off for a few months now).
The problem I have is that the first one (on the StationPi) has been in use for about 18 months (not continuously), and it now has quite a lot of the text across the OLED display fading out and becoming unusable. It looks very much like the widely reported OLED burn issue (TVs, displays etc). Maybe I’m being paranoid, but I think I’m also already seeing different brightness on the text across the second one (StationPi Pro) when I switch it on for testing.
I don’t use the Controllers for volume etc (I have the 9038 dual mono set to a Ti PCM5122 DAC setting so that I can control the setup headless using a web interface – Moode), however I do need it for SYNC/DPLL/Analysis/Filter selection etc purposes – and it looks like the display on one of them will soon be unusable for that. Maybe the second one not far behind…..
So, my questions are:
1. Anyone else seeing this issue?
2. Any recommendations for solving the problem?
3. Does anyone have the part number and suppliers for the 0.91” OLED used?
4. Has anyone successfully replaced the display? The 15 or so tiny traces on the Kapton ribbon connector look challenging to solder – it makes soldering my NDK SA crystals look like childs play. Also the display looks glued on to the controller…..
5. Some replacement displays that look similar on eBay/Amazon etc are already mounted onto a carrier board that has circuitry on it that the 15 tiny traces interface to – meaning that only 4 much easier to handle dupont type connectors are needed for connection. Is it possible to use this, and if so, where would the GND/VCL/SCL/SDA connections be on the existing controller board?
6. Is there an alternative display method available to sidestep the OLED issue?
Any other suggestions welcome,
Regards
Adrian
Hi all, I’m not sure if this is the correct forum for these questions, but there is not much recent activity on the Group Buy thread, so I thought I’d post here where more people might see it.
I have 2 of Ian’s clever ESS Controllers – one on my StationPi setup, and one that I bought in a later Group Buy for my StationPi Pro (been building it and testing it on and off for a few months now).
The problem I have is that the first one (on the StationPi) has been in use for about 18 months (not continuously), and it now has quite a lot of the text across the OLED display fading out and becoming unusable. It looks very much like the widely reported OLED burn issue (TVs, displays etc). Maybe I’m being paranoid, but I think I’m also already seeing different brightness on the text across the second one (StationPi Pro) when I switch it on for testing.
I don’t use the Controllers for volume etc (I have the 9038 dual mono set to a Ti PCM5122 DAC setting so that I can control the setup headless using a web interface – Moode), however I do need it for SYNC/DPLL/Analysis/Filter selection etc purposes – and it looks like the display on one of them will soon be unusable for that. Maybe the second one not far behind…..
So, my questions are:
1. Anyone else seeing this issue?
2. Any recommendations for solving the problem?
3. Does anyone have the part number and suppliers for the 0.91” OLED used?
4. Has anyone successfully replaced the display? The 15 or so tiny traces on the Kapton ribbon connector look challenging to solder – it makes soldering my NDK SA crystals look like childs play. Also the display looks glued on to the controller…..
5. Some replacement displays that look similar on eBay/Amazon etc are already mounted onto a carrier board that has circuitry on it that the 15 tiny traces interface to – meaning that only 4 much easier to handle dupont type connectors are needed for connection. Is it possible to use this, and if so, where would the GND/VCL/SCL/SDA connections be on the existing controller board?
6. Is there an alternative display method available to sidestep the OLED issue?
Any other suggestions welcome,
Regards
Adrian
Hi,HdmiPi Pro
HdmiPi Pro is a dedicated I2S/DSD over HDMI transport interface board. Compared with all other solutions, It is the first one that uses discrete 1-bit LVDS drivers to achieve the highest HDMI signal quality and lowest noise levels. And it also integrates the well reputed 1-bit discrete secondary re-clockers to ensure the best possible low-jitter performance, similar to a ReClockPi. HdmiPi Pro is the flagship HDMI transport interface board for audiophiles to improve the sound quality of a DAC to a best possible level. HdmiPi Pro works in SYNC clock mode so it will need a FifoPiMa, FifoPiQ7 or Q3 to operate.
- Discrete 1-bit LVDS drives to achieve the best possible LVDS signal quality and the lowest noise levels.
- Built-in the well reputed 1-bit discrete secondary re-clock stage
- Enhanced high bandwidth power supply filtering networks
- LDO free design to make it directly use the 3.3V ultracapacitor or battery power supply for the best power supply performance
- Could be so far the best I2S/DSD over HDMI streamer transport interface
- Optimized PCB impedance control for the high speed LVDS signals
- 4 layers PCB design with dedicate shield layers to eliminate EMI noise
- Metal film ultra-low noise resistors to ensure the lowest possible noise level
- Pure sync mode works with FifoPiMa, FifoPiQ7, FifoPiQ3 and other re-clockers..
- Capable of I2S signals up to 1536KHz
- Capable of native DSD signals up to DSD1024
HdmiPiPro by Ian, on Flickr
would your HDMI Receiver be a good partner for the HdmiPi Pro?
Want to build a streamer and go with i2s over Hdmi to my DAC (Buffalo IIIpro) which has no HDMI input.
Thx
Branko
Hi,
I wanna try FifoPi Q7 but I’m little confused by its connectors. It has U.FL connectors’ group (MCLK, SCK, LRCK, SD) and GPIO group (GND, SCK, LRCK, SD). And my DAC has 5 pins for I2S input: GND, DATA, BCK, WCK, MCK and all digital sources I had used before had all five output connectors.
So if I would connect FifoPi Q7 through U.FL group I will miss GND, if I would connect through GPIO, I will miss master clock. So should I connect by U.FL group and take ground from GPIO or should I connect from GPIO and take master clock signal from U.FL? Will it work this way?
thanks
I wanna try FifoPi Q7 but I’m little confused by its connectors. It has U.FL connectors’ group (MCLK, SCK, LRCK, SD) and GPIO group (GND, SCK, LRCK, SD). And my DAC has 5 pins for I2S input: GND, DATA, BCK, WCK, MCK and all digital sources I had used before had all five output connectors.
So if I would connect FifoPi Q7 through U.FL group I will miss GND, if I would connect through GPIO, I will miss master clock. So should I connect by U.FL group and take ground from GPIO or should I connect from GPIO and take master clock signal from U.FL? Will it work this way?
thanks
Thank you very much, it makes it clear!
Please excuse my ignorance I never dealt with them.
Unfortunately, the problem remains because the DAC hasn't u.fl connectors only a plain XH.
Looks like FIFOPI Q7 can be connected with hats and boards with u.fl only.
Please excuse my ignorance I never dealt with them.
Unfortunately, the problem remains because the DAC hasn't u.fl connectors only a plain XH.
Looks like FIFOPI Q7 can be connected with hats and boards with u.fl only.
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Hi @iancanada - I purchased your IAN CANADA UCCONDITIONER Ultra Capacitor Conditioner Board 3.3V
It worked fine for a few months but then suddenly it stopped giving output on the output terminals. I can measure 3.3V coming to its input pins but on the output pins there is no voltage output. All the LEDs light up fine.
Can you offer me a solution else all the money put into that product is gone for me. Thanks in advance.
It worked fine for a few months but then suddenly it stopped giving output on the output terminals. I can measure 3.3V coming to its input pins but on the output pins there is no voltage output. All the LEDs light up fine.
Can you offer me a solution else all the money put into that product is gone for me. Thanks in advance.
Q7 has Chrystek as stock clocks? Which ones? There is lettering "2520" on pictures so I thought there is NDK
Hello Ian.
I have just installed Q7 and it is a really god upgrade from Q2, it have been playing with the stock clocks now and I was up for trying Chrystek that was used in the beginning on Q2 they worked just fine, than i tried my Accusilicon AS318 clocks but they will not play music, red led showing empty. This Accusilicon clocks was used all the time on Q2 until i swapped to Q7.
Are using as 5v and 3.3v linearpi power supply.
Do you have any suggestion why those Accusilicon clocks wont work?
Best regards Kenneth
I have just installed Q7 and it is a really god upgrade from Q2, it have been playing with the stock clocks now and I was up for trying Chrystek that was used in the beginning on Q2 they worked just fine, than i tried my Accusilicon AS318 clocks but they will not play music, red led showing empty. This Accusilicon clocks was used all the time on Q2 until i swapped to Q7.
Are using as 5v and 3.3v linearpi power supply.
Do you have any suggestion why those Accusilicon clocks wont work?
Best regards Kenneth
